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Author Topic: Helping out a friend  (Read 390 times)

HamPster

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Helping out a friend
« on: September 28, 2005, 02:18:25 AM »
I posted something about this friend last week, she's the one I was trying to talk into using her plastic ball at that tournament . .  Anyway, it's the same house, and a certain league we bowl.  It's a 9 pm scratch league that they oil for at 4 in the afternoon.  They allow open play before the league because there's no early league down there.  The open play isn't very heavy though for the most part, but it's still there, not to mention the oil is just sitting for 5 hours.  This is a dry house to begin with, but it's just dry dry and more dry on this league.  Some people can actually find oil, and I don't know how they do it, but the majority of the league has trouble at this house.  

If you have high ball speed or high revs, you'll be ok.  You'd think less revs would help, and it does for a couple people, but speed is most important.  My friend throws the ball about 16 mph with about 250 revs.  She can play as far left as a little deeper than 3rd arrow, but she comes up behind the ball for the most part, so she prefers to stay right, but she usually swings it a bit.  Early league at the first house, she shot 731 with a 205 her last game.  We get over to our late league, and she's immediately as deep as she can go throwing it as hard as she can, and it's either through the beak or a washout.  The treacherous thing about this house is that there's a hang spot at 6, 7, and 8 at the breakpoint that's about 5 or 6 feet long.  1-6 is very dry, and inside that is dry too.  If you get it out too quick, it goes left.  If you get it inside 8, the same thing happens.  However, if you get the wrong angle on it and hit that area in between the dry, it just skates.  It wasn't there last year, and a lot of the higher average bowlers have noticed it.  The carry is also absolutely horrible, so when you move left, even when you find a line to the pocket, you're going to have trouble.  It's not just "some people" that have trouble carrying, it's the whole league.  A guy I was bowling against with high speed and revs shot 256-299 his first two games, and still beat the pocket to death his last game, but he left everything in the book, and was throwing the ball just as well as he did all night.  

My friend actually did break out her plastic ball last game, and did a LITTLE better, but she'd already pretty much given up for the night.  She shot 479, her second sub-500 series out there of the year.  Bowling 6 nights a week (she's subbing in a couple leagues for women that are either pregnant or have just recently had babies), this league is the only one she's averaging under 200 in.  Every other league is 210+, I believe.  I don't know what to tell her.  She decided to quit the league last night.  It's 20 bucks a night for lousy bowled on conditions.  I don't like it either, but I can bowl as deep as I need to.  I'd like to try to help her get around the ball or get her comfortable with her plastic ball, because either one has to be better than 479.  

Suggestions?  I really wish I could post a video of how this house reacts, but suffice it to say this lady is a good bowler.  Lisa Bishop (former PWBA touring pro) met her at Queens a couple years ago, and tried to talk her into bowling a couple tour stops.  As far as bowling balls, she's throwing a polished Hot Wire right now, and the Power Groove she used to have was too much ball for this house . .  Plastic reacts pretty decent at this house, but she still feels that throwing plastic is giving up.  Hopefully I can get her a ball with some backend and show her how to move deep.
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atomized

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Re: Helping out a friend
« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2005, 08:31:50 AM »
Hey Hampter, don't know if this will help, but some different idea's to try.

The first idea is from the Brunswick help. Did not keep the link but kept the info.

\\\\\\\\\\
45-degree layout

0______0

___________@
___p

_____cg
__________Wt
___0


Brunswick idea for more control on drier lanes
----------------------------------------------
To me the purpose of this layout is to create arc off the breakpoint. Higher pins tend to react to friction much quicker. They tend to provide a more sudden move. When I lower pin placements it is to achieve an arc shape. When I am using this type of arc motion I also want to see the ball make a move sooner on the lane. If I use a quicker response layout (higher pin) the ball tends to make a more sudden move to the friction so I can not use a break point closer to me. This quicker move usually over hooks or makes a jerk/stop motion. I have to slow the ball down with surface too much in the front part of the lane to create the arc shape I am looking for. Too much surface effects carry so it is a scoring pace consideration.

I have had success using this layout curving the lane or going up the lane. I have not had much success with this layout if it gets too far down the lane. Because of this my surface consideration is to make sure it reads early enough. When going up the lane with this layout I usually over shell.

When curving the lane I look to match the cover-stock more closely. I don't want it slowing down too much in the front. My angles are such that I can move further away from the fricton with an earlier break point, the ball will make a more rounded motion. When doing this I am usually using quicker response covers trying to smooth them out. This combination allows me to use more angle and recovery. I don't find myself having to play too close to the friction. I can keep my eyes left of the early friction but if I hit the friction it does not jerk or stop. The angle is used to create hold. It is very effective when a bowler wants to stay inside of a worn track area, mistakes to the right do not over bounce. I like to match the surface with the lower friction area inside of the higher friction spot of the lane.

The weight hole is a necessary part of this layout as it moves the bowtie up. Lowering the pin will bring the bow tie down, usually causing the track to flare over the fingers. Using the  wt. hole will raise the bowtie back up to allow the flare to stay above the fingers.

When going up the lane I want to make sure I have chosen a slow enough response cover or have slowed it down with surface.

-------------------------------
Another idea might be the pin axis drill. I have used it on med-light to very light, here are some things a fellow BR Janderson said.

Quote


This layout can be a bit confusing at first.
Let's say you have a Storm Whatever with another of your favorite
layouts. Thrown on the same line, sometimes the Storm Whatever
will hook more than the pin-on-pap ball, sometimes the pin-on-pap
ball will hook more. It's because of the oil length. The shorter
the oil, the more the pin-on-pap is going to hook (it has more
time to roll the oil off), the longer the oil, the less the
pin-on-pap is going to hook (it has less time to roll the oil off).

This layout will never create a good "read" ball, so it will never
help you "find the shot" early on in practice. It can give you
a false read of the conditions because when the ball hooks, you
know it has found a dry area, however... how long did it take
the oil to work its way off the ball? If the head oil is heavy,
that dry area may be a lot bigger than it looks. If the head
oil is light, the dry area may be a lot smaller than it looks.

Its a good layout for short oil or light oil because the ball
will take maximum advantage of any oil it finds.

Its a big no-no if you have no head oil. The ball will be dead
at 25 feet because it wants to rev up early with the low Rg.

I like this layout slightly better on the Conquest because of
the assymetric core, which helps the ball sort of "lean" in
the direction you want it to go. It helps to offset deflection
if the ball gets to the pins with some oil still on the ball
in the track.

Finally, be careful using this on too strong of a coverstock.
Strong particles want to rev up early because of their aggressive
covers. Putting a pin-on-pap drill on one just magnifies the
effect and you increase the chances of the ball rolling out on
you. Conversely, you know that no matter what, this ball
will want to rev up early and arc. You can increase or decrease
the length of the ball before it starts to arc by sanding or
polishing the ball - just like any other layout, but even
more pronounced because of its nature.

end Quote

Good Luck, maybe others have some ideas.

Edited on 9/29/2005 8:28 AM