Took me a while to find what I thought I had read on this site about 1500 polished surfaces being much higher than 1500 using the new surface scanner.

Storm 1500 polished yielded surface scans between 5100-5300.

http://www.ballreviews.com/miscellaneous/cleandull-unscientific-results-are-in-t280811.0.html;msg1390259#msg1390259

Quote from: jls on January 29, 2015, 03:32:38 PM

"1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish."


NO CHARLIE...according to the Storm Tech...at the factory...It is sanded to 4000 and then polish is applied...Step two...polish...which ranges from 1500-2500...


The way they word it can be confusing...they say 1500 polish...<<<I guess they never heard of YOU....And we all know...you think you know best...

The 4000 grit your referring to is in the FEPA "P" scale, which is 1500 grit in the US ANSI scale. So the ball is starting at a 1500 grit surface before the polish is applied.

Once the Step two is used the final grit on the surface is higher than 1500 grit.


Also
Storm Step Two is 320/1500 not 1500/2500

Storm Step Three is 1500/2500

Sir...What I clearly said...before being attacked by Charlie...Was...If you are using a polish ball...and you clean it with alcohol....you are removing or stripping the polish OFF....That will leave the ball duller...and cause it to hook up earlier....

Charlie said "you can't strip off polish"...That is simply not an accurate statement...

Now Storm says that a ball is 1500-grit Polished...that means it was sanded to 1500 and then polished to 1500...Now step one polish is 320-1500...Step two is
1500-2500...

Now the level of polish or sanding was not the issue here...What I said was...If you
have a polished ball...step one or step 2 etc...and you clean it with alcohol...it will
reduce, remove, strip the polish off said ball...and cause said ball to react earlier on the lane...

And if you are a bowler who needs length...this will not help you...

AND THEN, MR. KNOW IT ALL...CHARLEST....JUMPED IN AND CLAIMED YOU CAN'T STRIP POLISH OFF A BALL...


re read his first post...

All the talk about 1500 polish or 4000 polish was just using them as examples...

Please be aware that as we are dancing around the subject of cleaning, we also include using surface. While cleaning the ball is vital, if you are only cleaning it and not reapplying surface then you are defeating the purpose of cleaning it.

Build a schedule for equipment maintenance, i.e. regular cleanings, surface jobs to restore the finish to which you like the ball, de-oiling, and resurfacing.

Note, I have never had a ball "die" or if loss of reaction occurs, I have never NOT been able to restore the finish. Reaction is not some magical demon in the bowling world, it is science.

Simple question sir...If you had a ball set up for the dry...lets say sanded to 4000 and polished to 2500...and you used alcohol to clean it...Do you think you would see a different reaction???

Do you think the ball would lose some of it's length???

IMO....It would indeed lose length...backend...and be duller>>>not as highly polished...


And that was the point I was making when...Charlest jumped in...

AND CLAIMED....IT CAN'T BE DONE...

Quote from: jls on January 29, 2015, 03:32:38 PM

"1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish."


NO CHARLIE...according to the Storm Tech...at the factory...It is sanded to 4000 and then polish is applied...Step two...polish...which ranges from 1500-2500...


The way they word it can be confusing...they say 1500 polish...<<<I guess they never heard of YOU....And we all know...you think you know best...

The 4000 grit your referring to is in the FEPA "P" scale, which is 1500 grit in the US ANSI scale. So the ball is starting at a 1500 grit surface before the polish is applied.

Once the Step two is used the final grit on the surface is higher than 1500 grit.


Also
Storm Step Two is 320/1500 not 1500/2500

Storm Step Three is 1500/2500

HERE is Storm's number...1-800-297-8555....ask for a ball tech...

On the question about the Hyper Cell Skid...

It is sanded from 500 - 4000....they will even tell you how many seconds to use each pad...and then it is polished with Step two...

Now yesterday we drilled up 2 Hyper Cell Skid's for a customer...

Both drill patterns were the SAME...Pin placements and MB placements...

We took one ball and left it with the STORM BOX FINISH...>>>>highly polished...

We took the second ball and sanded it to 1500...and then applied 1500...step two polish on it....

The results...two totally different reactions on the lane...

The box finish ball went longer with a very strong back end...

The ball we adjusted to 1500 sanded...read the midlane and was stronger in the oil... with more of a strong arcing back end...

What we here in the big city with the tall buildings call...

A more aggressive ball for heavy oil....as opposed to a more HIGHLY POLISHED ball for light to med oil...


Now...here is and was the original POINT....


If we cleaned the more highly polished ball with alcohol...it would INDEED CAHNGE THE REACTION OF SAID BALL....

It would be duller...not as highly polished...and it would roll up earlier...

Not good if you wanted said ball set up for lighter patterns...


And then Mr Charlest jumped all over that and claimed...You can't strip polish off a ball"...


SORRY CHARLIE...."ONLY THE BEST TUNA MAKE STAR KIST"...


Conclusion....using alcohol will indeed clean a ball...but if said ball was highly polished for lighter patterns....IT WILL INDEED CHANGE THE REACTION OF SAID BALL...

WHY.....BECAUSE YOU HAVE STRIP, REMOVED, REDUCED THE THE LEVEL OF POLISH ON SAID BALL...


NO MATTER WHAT CHARLEST SAYS...

I bore you because I call you out as a fraud who thinks they know everything, in reality you are probably just a grumpy old man.

You need to get out of your days in the 80's when bowling balls where put in the Lustre King and had a compound applied to them and into modern times where ball coverstocks are smoothed with abrasives and polishes.

Again...our shop STOCKS just about every major ball cleaner, polish and pads that is on the market....

I have no clue what you are talking about...

But I do know you hate pro shops...cause Ebonite and Storm adjusted the prices you can sell their product at...


Now get lost...

Aloarjr810...

Step one, two and three are compounds...Most people refer to them as polish...

Extra Shine is polish...Ebo. Factory finish is polish...

These products are used to adjust the surface of a ball...for more length...

The point here was....

If you use alcohol on a ball that had step one, or two or three, or extra shine, or
Ebonite factory finish POLISH on it...

You will indeed be removing, reducing, or stripping SAID COMPOUND OR POLISH
OFF SAID BALL....

And that will indeed reduce the length one may have needed...for lighter oil patterns....

Again...most people refer to Step One, two, or three as polish...But they are indeed compounds...

And once again...the POINT...If you use alcohol on them...It will indeed reduce/strip/and remove said compound or polish from said ball...



You and Charlest have been listening to our leader to much...Too much double talk...

YOU KNOW AND I KNOW THAT YOU KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT...

Using alcohol on a shiny polished or compound finish ball...will reduce length...


stop playing your silly games...

Each and every day we get customers in the shop who NEED HELP...because
their balls roll way to early on the DRY patterns they must ball on...

And we help them...we show them how to use polish, AKA compounds...how to clean their balls, and what pads to use...

And the results are good....Cause they keep buying the proper products that
most Ball companies RECOMMEND...WHY...Because they see them PERFORM...


now you can believe what ever you want...


You guys come on this site and love to play Pro Shop...You love to tell
everyone what to do...While at work on company time...

Here is a thought...since you think you know so much....

WHY DON'T YOU OPEN UP A PRO SHOP...


now that's some funny stuff...

And stock it with about 50K worth of msde...

And then you can tell people to use alcohol on their new 200 dollar plus bowling balls....

Aloarjr810...

"Yes they had different reactions because the factory doesn't surface balls with spinners. They use production finishing equipment.

And it's long been know that you can't reproduce a the factory surface using a spinner, you can only get it close."


Did you read what I wrote....Reading is a skill ya know...

I pointed out that we changed the box finish on said ball...Did not say anything about reproducing...


Now no one can reproduce the factory finish...Unless you are the factory...

BUT...you can maintain your cover stock...you can adjust the box finish on your cover stock...

And if you use good products...you will not reduce/remove/or strip off the compound or polish that may be on your ball...



Oh and one more thing....Please do stop posting..as you keep saying...

Cause you make zero sense...and you lack basic reading skills...


now


are we clear

I am a professional, I don't use alcohol on bowling balls. 

But I also know that there is nothing on the ball surface to remove.  Even acetone does not make a shiny ball dull.  If the alcohol is making the surface dull there is a residue that is being left behind.