BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: machine35 on January 26, 2015, 06:50:36 PM
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I just bought two bowling balls from the thrift store and i was wondering was the best household product i can use to restore it or just make it clean as new?
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Simple Green and Rubbing Alcohol works pretty well.
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What balls? I'm curious
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Simple Green, alcohol and water
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Simple Green, alcohol and water
yes. 33% of each will do a nice job. Get one of your wife's old hair spray bottles. Makes for a good cheap applicator
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+1 ^
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The original simple green & alcohol mix is 50/50.
Adding water isn't really needed.
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The original simple green & alcohol mix is 50/50.
Adding water isn't really needed.
Exactly, if you use rubbing alcohol, it usually contains a % of water already.
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The original simple green & alcohol mix is 50/50.
Adding water isn't really needed.
Exactly, if you use rubbing alcohol, it usually contains a % of water already.
I've said that until I'm blue in the face. No one listens. None are so blind as those who will not see.
Simple Green, even the concentrated version, has water in it. Rubbing/household alcohol also has water in it. Why, once you have mixed the two, add more water?? Use a greater percentage of alcohol, yes. More water, no!
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The original simple green & alcohol mix is 50/50.
Adding water isn't really needed.
Exactly, if you use rubbing alcohol, it usually contains a % of water already.
I've said that until I'm blue in the face. No one listens. None are so blind as those who will not see.
Simple Green, even the concentrated version, has water in it. Rubbing/household alcohol also has water in it. Why, once you have mixed the two, add more water?? Use a greater percentage of alcohol, yes. More water, no!
Yea, but common sense isn't so common here.
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The original simple green & alcohol mix is 50/50.
Adding water isn't really needed.
Because those of us who have tried different mixtures have determined that 33% mix of each works best. Especially when using SG concentrate, and 94% isopropyl alcohol. I guarantee you that most of your prebottled cleaners have more water content than the above formula.
Common sense with experience. Try it sometime.
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As for me I am one of those of us who have tried different mixtures (probably more than most on here, except maybe charlest) and been doing it for quite awhile so I have the experience.
Simple green has a 84% content of water, the water in the alcohol would depend on alcohol%. So just mixing those two it's mostly water and alcohol to begin with.
But if adding more water to the mix and diluting it works for someone, I won't say not to use it.
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Are you talking Simple green already in a spray bottle or the concentrate like I am talking about.
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Are you talking Simple green already in a spray bottle or the concentrate like I am talking about.
That would be the spray bottle, But the concentrate still has water in it also (I don't have the info sheet for it to get the percentage.)
By using the water in the other mix, your diluting the alcohol a lot. that's why you have to use the higher 94% alcohol. (the alcohol helps with residue removal & evaporation)
Given if you wanted to use concentrate, you should mix the concentrate separately as per the SGC instructions first. Then use that mix to make the 50/50 mix of SG & Alcohol.
As I said if you or or anybody wants to use a different mix, that's fine.
This whole 50/50 or 1/3rd mix debate has been going on for a long time and I'm sure will continue. As long as whatever mix someone uses cleans their ball to their satisfaction that's what counts.
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Are you talking Simple green already in a spray bottle or the concentrate like I am talking about.
Simple Green concentrate is 84.8% water, and the 'ready to use' version is 92.8% water. You can have fun looking at the MSDS sheets in the following link:
http://simplegreen.com/data-sheets/ (http://simplegreen.com/data-sheets/)
Focusing on the SG concentrate, there is roughly 90% combined water and alcohol. So with your 33% SG/Water/Alcohol mix, there is a total of about 3% of some unknown degreasing agents left to get the job done.
For those who don't want to spend the money for superior industrial strength specific ball cleaners that can only be used before and after USBC competition, these home brews are fine. In my own years of using different solutions of SG and F409, I didn't find any miraculous difference in minor mixture percentages. Be it 33% or 50% mixes, whatever makes you feel better, go for it.
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machine35:
Simple green and alcohol, I've used before and thought it did ok. Two household items you may already have. If not you can get and use around the house.
My preference is simple green and the "wintergreen" rubbing alcohol. It gives a fresh smell as you are applying it that I enjoy better than high octane rubbing alcohol. I have my concoction in a bottle that once housed "foaming" ball cleaner, and this mixture does foam with it. More simple green, the more foam from my observations.
I feel that the more alcohol works better, but that is my opinion, (not scientific fact). If you go this route, play with the mixes, and go with what you feel is best.
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Sir...This products the are talking about will indeed clean the surface of a ball...
HOWEVER....if you are using your ball POLISHED...Due to certain lane conditions...
Using those products will STRIP OFF the POLISH...and cause your ball to roll early
and loose back end...
If using a polished ball...I would use a REAL BALL CLEANER that is made to work
with POLISH...
That may cost about 7.95 to 10.95 a bottle...
But even alcohol is more expensive today...I haven't seen any 79 cent alcohol in a long time... ;D not even at Wal Mart... :D ;D
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The majority of all polishes are just liquid abrasives, it's not like putting a coat of wax on a car your not going to strip the polish off.
Ball took to 1500 and polished with Royal compound then Royal shine. Then cleaned with alcohol. The alcohol didn't dull the ball or remove the "polish".
(https://www.ballreviews.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs5.postimg.org%2Fci0dp1mrr%2Fpolishvsalcohol.jpg&hash=c3b53769a1f739e4d96b66db21dbc6edb4944cde)
Now if it was one with a slip agent in it, that would be different.
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I disagree. ..you take a polished ball and clean it with alcohol...it will indeed reduce the length and back end...it will take the gloss polish look and dull it down...this is something we do daily...now if you are a pro shop and want to do this to your customers ball's. ..go right ahead...but we DONT...Now are we clear [
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Sir...This products the are talking about will indeed clean the surface of a ball...
HOWEVER....if you are using your ball POLISHED...Due to certain lane conditions...
Using those products will STRIP OFF the POLISH...and cause your ball to roll early
and loose back end...
You can't "strip off" polish from a ball. That implies that "polish" is layer on top of the surface of the ball. Polish is not a coating, like varnish or paint. "Polish" is a way to finish the surface. It makes it a finer and finer grit level. It usualy takes around 5000 grit for a ball's surface to begin to reflect light, to shine; so that it looks like what we call "polished".
The only time we can "strip off" the shine ona ball is when its an "oil shine" caused by oil lying in the pores and reflecting light that makes it look like it is polished. In that case, once it gets dull looking, you removed the oil, NOT a coat of polish.
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If you have a polished ball..and clean half of it with alcohol...that side will be duller than the other side...and a duller ball will roll up earlier on drier lanes...therefore the effects of polishing a ball have been greatly reduced...day in and day out we get farmers who complain that there ball hooks too soon...and they can't keep the ball off the nose...most if not all of them use alcohol..
Once will teach them how to use polish and properly clean their balls...their averages go up...now you can go clean your ball any way you want...here...in the big city with the tall buildings...we do it right...still clear
btw...a Farmer is a keyboard pounder who likes to come on this site and play
Mr. Bowling expert....while at work...
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"It usualy takes around 5000 grit for a ball's surface to begin to reflect light, to shine; so that it looks like what we call "polished".
Sir...I guess you have never seen a 1500 polished Hyper Cell Skid...or a Optimus...
They are extremely high gloss looking...
And they are only at 1500 polish...not 2500 nor 5000...
We adjust covers for BOWLERS daily...When someone comes in and needs MORE
LENGTH...we adjust the cover accordingly....
If they need less length...the same...
And we never ever recommend using alcohol on a 200.00 plus bowling ball...
Would you clean your car with alcohol...try it...see what it does to your paint job...
Applying polish will increase the length and back end on a ball...especially on today's drier lane conditions....
And it makes ZERO sense to polish a ball....and then use alcohol to clean it...
ONCE AGAIN... THAT WILL INDEED REMOVE OR STRIP THE POLISH OFF SAID BALL....
Even people in Mayberry know that... ;D
now I'm done talking to you...
you go ahead and clean you balls anyway you want...
I could care less...
now
once again
are we clear
know it all's
Oh and BTW....using good ball cleaners will greatly ENHANCE the LIFE of ones
ball...
Using alcohol on a 200.00 ball...And then they complain that the cover died after 50 games...
unbelievable...
people still using DIAL UP.... ;D
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"It usualy takes around 5000 grit for a ball's surface to begin to reflect light, to shine; so that it looks like what we call "polished".
Sir...I guess you have never seen a 1500 polished Hyper Cell Skid...or a Optimus...
They are extremely high gloss looking...
And they are only at 1500 polish...not 2500 nor 5000...
We adjust covers for BOWLERS daily...When someone comes in and needs MORE
LENGTH...we adjust the cover accordingly....
If they need less length...the same...
And we never ever recommend using alcohol on a 200.00 plus bowling ball...
Would you clean your car with alcohol...try it...see what it does to your paint job...
Applying polish will increase the length and back end on a ball...especially on today's drier lane conditions....
And it makes ZERO sense to polish a ball....and then use alcohol to clean it...
ONCE AGAIN... THAT WILL INDEED REMOVE OR STRIP THE POLISH OFF SAID BALL....
Even people in Mayberry know that... ;D
now I'm done talking to you...
you go ahead and clean you balls anyway you want...
I could care less...
now
once again
are we clear
know it all's
Oh and BTW....using good ball cleaners will greatly ENHANCE the LIFE of ones
ball...
Using alcohol on a 200.00 ball...And then they complain that the cover died after 50 games...
unbelievable...
people still using DIAL UP.... ;D
Is it your expert opinion that the surface of that 1500 polished Hyper Cell Skid is at 1500?
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"It usualy takes around 5000 grit for a ball's surface to begin to reflect light, to shine; so that it looks like what we call "polished".
Sir...I guess you have never seen a 1500 polished Hyper Cell Skid...or a Optimus...
1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish.
We adjust covers for BOWLERS daily...When someone comes in and needs MORE
LENGTH...we adjust the cover accordingly....
If they need less length...the same...
And we never ever recommend using alcohol on a 200.00 plus bowling ball...
Would you clean your car with alcohol...try it...see what it does to your paint job...
Paint is not reactive urethane, aka resin. So your analogy does not apply.
Applying polish will increase the length and back end on a ball...especially on today's drier lane conditions....
And it makes ZERO sense to polish a ball....and then use alcohol to clean it...
Alcohol is irrelevant to our "discussion". I never mentioned.
ONCE AGAIN... THAT WILL INDEED REMOVE OR STRIP THE POLISH OFF SAID BALL....
Even people in Mayberry know that... ;D
I guess you're not from Mayberry.
now I'm done talking to you...
you go ahead and clean you balls anyway you want...
I could care less...
now
once again
are we clear
know it all's
yes, I am clear that you believe in "Ignorance is bliss".
Now, I am done talking with you, since you don't listen in any case.
Please return to the Non-Bowling Miscellaneous section.
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According to Storm...the ball is sanded to 4000 grit and then polished with 1500 grit polish.. all one has to do is call them...and the real experts will tell you...but you have a following...cause they think you know best...but I know better...
Note...sanded to 4000 pad then polished...
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According to Storm...the ball is sanded to 1500 grit and then polished with 1500 grit polish.. all one has to do is call them...and the real experts will tell you...but you have a following...cause they think you know best...but I know better...
Of course, you do.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Mi 2 az....According to Storm... the ball has STEP TWO POLISH on it...
And step two ranges from 1500-2500...
Now it was their description that said 1500 grit polished...Not mine...
The ball is sanded from 500 to 4000...and then finished with Step Two Polish...
Again...all one has to do is simply call Storm...
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"1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish."
NO CHARLIE...according to the Storm Tech...at the factory...It is sanded to 4000 and then polish is applied...Step two...polish...which ranges from 1500-2500...
The way they word it can be confusing...they say 1500 polish...<<<I guess they never heard of YOU....And we all know...you think you know best... ;D :D
The point here was and is...
ALCOHOL is not good on a polished ball...It will indeed remove the level of polish...and that will cause the ball to roll early...And the whole purpose of using polish is to get a later roll....especially on lighter oil patterns...
AND ONE MORE THING CHARLIE....YOU DON'T OWN THIS SITE...SO DON'T GO TELLING ME WHERE TO POST...
now again
are we clear
no one died and made you boss...
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"1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish."
NO CHARLIE...according to the Storm Tech...at the factory...It is sanded to 4000 and then polish is applied...Step two...polish...which ranges from 1500-2500...
The way they word it can be confusing...they say 1500 polish...<<<I guess they never heard of YOU....And we all know...you think you know best... ;D :D
The 4000 grit your referring to is in the FEPA "P" scale, which is 1500 grit in the US ANSI scale. So the ball is starting at a 1500 grit surface before the polish is applied.
Once the Step two is used the final grit on the surface is higher than 1500 grit.
Also
Storm Step Two is 320/1500 not 1500/2500
Storm Step Three is 1500/2500
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For those of you debating with jls keep something in mind. This is the brainiac that argued with me a few years ago about the Ebonite/internet house account situation, telling me how it all worked, while I had the certified letter from Ebonite on my desk next to me while I was posting from my office at Bowlers Paradise.
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Took me a while to find what I thought I had read on this site about 1500 polished surfaces being much higher than 1500 using the new surface scanner.
Storm 1500 polished yielded surface scans between 5100-5300.
http://www.ballreviews.com/miscellaneous/cleandull-unscientific-results-are-in-t280811.0.html;msg1390259#msg1390259 (http://www.ballreviews.com/miscellaneous/cleandull-unscientific-results-are-in-t280811.0.html;msg1390259#msg1390259)
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Please be aware that as we are dancing around the subject of cleaning, we also include using surface. While cleaning the ball is vital, if you are only cleaning it and not reapplying surface then you are defeating the purpose of cleaning it.
Build a schedule for equipment maintenance, i.e. regular cleanings, surface jobs to restore the finish to which you like the ball, de-oiling, and resurfacing.
Note, I have never had a ball "die" or if loss of reaction occurs, I have never NOT been able to restore the finish. Reaction is not some magical demon in the bowling world, it is science.
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"1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish."
NO CHARLIE...according to the Storm Tech...at the factory...It is sanded to 4000 and then polish is applied...Step two...polish...which ranges from 1500-2500...
The way they word it can be confusing...they say 1500 polish...<<<I guess they never heard of YOU....And we all know...you think you know best... ;D :D
The 4000 grit your referring to is in the FEPA "P" scale, which is 1500 grit in the US ANSI scale. So the ball is starting at a 1500 grit surface before the polish is applied.
Once the Step two is used the final grit on the surface is higher than 1500 grit.
Also
Storm Step Two is 320/1500 not 1500/2500
Storm Step Three is 1500/2500
Sir...What I clearly said...before being attacked by Charlie...Was...If you are using a polish ball...and you clean it with alcohol....you are removing or stripping the polish OFF....That will leave the ball duller...and cause it to hook up earlier....
Charlie said "you can't strip off polish"...That is simply not an accurate statement...
Now Storm says that a ball is 1500-grit Polished...that means it was sanded to 1500 and then polished to 1500...Now step one polish is 320-1500...Step two is
1500-2500...
Now the level of polish or sanding was not the issue here...What I said was...If you
have a polished ball...step one or step 2 etc...and you clean it with alcohol...it will
reduce, remove, strip the polish off said ball...and cause said ball to react earlier on the lane...
And if you are a bowler who needs length...this will not help you...
AND THEN, MR. KNOW IT ALL...CHARLEST....JUMPED IN AND CLAIMED YOU CAN'T STRIP POLISH OFF A BALL...
re read his first post...
All the talk about 1500 polish or 4000 polish was just using them as examples...
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For those of you debating with jls keep something in mind. This is the brainiac that argued with me a few years ago about the Ebonite/internet house account situation, telling me how it all worked, while I had the certified letter from Ebonite on my desk next to me while I was posting from my office at Bowlers Paradise.
First... I have no clue...who or what you are...NOR DO I CARE....
BUT WHAT I DO KNOW IS....THERE ARE NOW PRICING GUIDELINES NOW IN PLACE...
EVEN DEXTER HAS JUMPED IN WITH PRICING GUIDELINES...
now move along....cause you really BORE ME...
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Please be aware that as we are dancing around the subject of cleaning, we also include using surface. While cleaning the ball is vital, if you are only cleaning it and not reapplying surface then you are defeating the purpose of cleaning it.
Build a schedule for equipment maintenance, i.e. regular cleanings, surface jobs to restore the finish to which you like the ball, de-oiling, and resurfacing.
Note, I have never had a ball "die" or if loss of reaction occurs, I have never NOT been able to restore the finish. Reaction is not some magical demon in the bowling world, it is science.
Simple question sir...If you had a ball set up for the dry...lets say sanded to 4000 and polished to 2500...and you used alcohol to clean it...Do you think you would see a different reaction???
Do you think the ball would lose some of it's length???
IMO....It would indeed lose length...backend...and be duller>>>not as highly polished...
And that was the point I was making when...Charlest jumped in...
AND CLAIMED....IT CAN'T BE DONE...
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I bore you because I call you out as a fraud who thinks they know everything, in reality you are probably just a grumpy old man.
You need to get out of your days in the 80's when bowling balls where put in the Lustre King and had a compound applied to them and into modern times where ball coverstocks are smoothed with abrasives and polishes.
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"1500 grit is not the final grit level. That's where it starts BEFORE they apply polish."
NO CHARLIE...according to the Storm Tech...at the factory...It is sanded to 4000 and then polish is applied...Step two...polish...which ranges from 1500-2500...
The way they word it can be confusing...they say 1500 polish...<<<I guess they never heard of YOU....And we all know...you think you know best... ;D :D
The 4000 grit your referring to is in the FEPA "P" scale, which is 1500 grit in the US ANSI scale. So the ball is starting at a 1500 grit surface before the polish is applied.
Once the Step two is used the final grit on the surface is higher than 1500 grit.
Also
Storm Step Two is 320/1500 not 1500/2500
Storm Step Three is 1500/2500
HERE is Storm's number...1-800-297-8555....ask for a ball tech...
On the question about the Hyper Cell Skid...
It is sanded from 500 - 4000....they will even tell you how many seconds to use each pad...and then it is polished with Step two...
Now yesterday we drilled up 2 Hyper Cell Skid's for a customer...
Both drill patterns were the SAME...Pin placements and MB placements...
We took one ball and left it with the STORM BOX FINISH...>>>>highly polished...
We took the second ball and sanded it to 1500...and then applied 1500...step two polish on it....
The results...two totally different reactions on the lane...
The box finish ball went longer with a very strong back end...
The ball we adjusted to 1500 sanded...read the midlane and was stronger in the oil... with more of a strong arcing back end...
What we here in the big city with the tall buildings call...
A more aggressive ball for heavy oil....as opposed to a more HIGHLY POLISHED ball for light to med oil...
Now...here is and was the original POINT....
If we cleaned the more highly polished ball with alcohol...it would INDEED CAHNGE THE REACTION OF SAID BALL....
It would be duller...not as highly polished...and it would roll up earlier...
Not good if you wanted said ball set up for lighter patterns...
And then Mr Charlest jumped all over that and claimed...You can't strip polish off a ball"...
SORRY CHARLIE...."ONLY THE BEST TUNA MAKE STAR KIST"... ;D
Conclusion....using alcohol will indeed clean a ball...but if said ball was highly polished for lighter patterns....IT WILL INDEED CHANGE THE REACTION OF SAID BALL...
WHY.....BECAUSE YOU HAVE STRIP, REMOVED, REDUCED THE THE LEVEL OF POLISH ON SAID BALL...
NO MATTER WHAT CHARLEST SAYS...
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Sir...What I clearly said...before being attacked by Charlie...Was...If you are using a polish ball...and you clean it with alcohol....you are removing or stripping the polish OFF....That will leave the ball duller...and cause it to hook up earlier....
Charlie said "you can't strip off polish"...That is simply not an accurate statement...
Well I read what you wrote and you are wrong, in fact I said it before charlie did.
My post:
The majority of all polishes are just liquid abrasives, it's not like putting a coat of wax on a car your not going to strip the polish off.
Now if it was one with a slip agent in it, that would be different.
Now Storm says that a ball is 1500-grit Polished...that means it was sanded to 1500 and then polished to 1500...Now step one polish is 320-1500...Step two is
1500-2500...
Let's see this is just what I told you in my last post so you just agreed with me. the only thing is step two does not take a 1500 grit sanded surface up to 1500.
The final surface will be more around 2500-3000
Now the level of polish or sanding was not the issue here...What I said was...If you
have a polished ball...step one or step 2 etc...and you clean it with alcohol...it will
reduce, remove, strip the polish off said ball...and cause said ball to react earlier on the lane...
And if you are a bowler who needs length...this will not help you...
AND THEN, MR. KNOW IT ALL...CHARLEST....JUMPED IN AND CLAIMED YOU CAN'T STRIP POLISH OFF A BALL...
re read his first post...
All the talk about 1500 polish or 4000 polish was just using them as examples...
I did and he was right.
As I said earlier The majority of all polishes are just liquid abrasives, it's not like putting a coat of wax on a car your not going to strip it off with alcohol.
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I bore you because I call you out as a fraud who thinks they know everything, in reality you are probably just a grumpy old man.
You need to get out of your days in the 80's when bowling balls where put in the Lustre King and had a compound applied to them and into modern times where ball coverstocks are smoothed with abrasives and polishes.
Again...our shop STOCKS just about every major ball cleaner, polish and pads that is on the market....
I have no clue what you are talking about...
But I do know you hate pro shops...cause Ebonite and Storm adjusted the prices you can sell their product at...
Now get lost...
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It is sanded from 500 - 4000....they will even tell you how many seconds to use each pad...and then it is polished with Step two...
Correct here are the steps
1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit Abralon® – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit Abralon – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit Abralon – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit Abralon – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.
Now yesterday we drilled up 2 Hyper Cell Skid's for a customer...
Both drill patterns were the SAME...Pin placements and MB placements...
We took one ball and left it with the STORM BOX FINISH...>>>>highly polished...
We took the second ball and sanded it to 1500...and then applied 1500...step two polish on it....
The results...two totally different reactions on the lane...
Yes they had different reactions because the factory doesn't surface balls with spinners. They use production finishing equipment.
And it's long been know that you can't reproduce a the factory surface using a spinner, you can only get it close.
now I going to end my part here, because you are going to believe what you want.
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Aloarjr810...
Step one, two and three are compounds...Most people refer to them as polish...
Extra Shine is polish...Ebo. Factory finish is polish...
These products are used to adjust the surface of a ball...for more length...
The point here was....
If you use alcohol on a ball that had step one, or two or three, or extra shine, or
Ebonite factory finish POLISH on it...
You will indeed be removing, reducing, or stripping SAID COMPOUND OR POLISH
OFF SAID BALL....
And that will indeed reduce the length one may have needed...for lighter oil patterns....
Again...most people refer to Step One, two, or three as polish...But they are indeed compounds...
And once again...the POINT...If you use alcohol on them...It will indeed reduce/strip/and remove said compound or polish from said ball...
You and Charlest have been listening to our leader to much...Too much double talk...
YOU KNOW AND I KNOW THAT YOU KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT...
Using alcohol on a shiny polished or compound finish ball...will reduce length...
stop playing your silly games...
Each and every day we get customers in the shop who NEED HELP...because
their balls roll way to early on the DRY patterns they must ball on...
And we help them...we show them how to use polish, AKA compounds...how to clean their balls, and what pads to use...
And the results are good....Cause they keep buying the proper products that
most Ball companies RECOMMEND...WHY...Because they see them PERFORM...
now you can believe what ever you want...
You guys come on this site and love to play Pro Shop...You love to tell
everyone what to do...While at work on company time...
Here is a thought...since you think you know so much....
WHY DON'T YOU OPEN UP A PRO SHOP... ;D :D ;)
now that's some funny stuff...
And stock it with about 50K worth of msde...
And then you can tell people to use alcohol on their new 200 dollar plus bowling balls....
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I actually feel sorry for you. It must suck being a bitter and grumpy old man, because it is pretty apparent that you are.
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Aloarjr810...
"Yes they had different reactions because the factory doesn't surface balls with spinners. They use production finishing equipment.
And it's long been know that you can't reproduce a the factory surface using a spinner, you can only get it close."
Did you read what I wrote....Reading is a skill ya know...
I pointed out that we changed the box finish on said ball...Did not say anything about reproducing... ??? ???
Now no one can reproduce the factory finish...Unless you are the factory...
BUT...you can maintain your cover stock...you can adjust the box finish on your cover stock...
And if you use good products...you will not reduce/remove/or strip off the compound or polish that may be on your ball...
Oh and one more thing....Please do stop posting..as you keep saying... ;D
Cause you make zero sense...and you lack basic reading skills...
now
are we clear
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I actually feel sorry for you. It must suck being a bitter and grumpy old man, because it is pretty apparent that you are.
I would rather be me...than you....And name calling and insults are not proper
on this side....
Now...if you know so much...answer the question I asked....
In your opinion...If you have a highly polished ball...either with a compound or a polish...and you use alcohol on it....do you think it will reduce the balls length...
Now I know...you will not answer this...
so
get lost
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I am a professional, I don't use alcohol on bowling balls.
But I also know that there is nothing on the ball surface to remove. Even acetone does not make a shiny ball dull. If the alcohol is making the surface dull there is a residue that is being left behind.
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I actually feel sorry for you. It must suck being a bitter and grumpy old man, because it is pretty apparent that you are.
I would rather be me...than you....And name calling and insults are not proper
on this side....
Now...if you know so much...answer the question I asked....
In your opinion...If you have a highly polished ball...either with a compound or a polish...and you use alcohol on it....do you think it will reduce the balls length...
Now I know...you will not answer this...
so
get lost
JLS, I'm no fan of using alcohol for cleaning because it's not a degreasing agent. But to your question. Unless alcohol alters the surface (i.e. RA values), how is it going to reduce ball length?
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I am a professional, I don't use alcohol on bowling balls.
But I also know that there is nothing on the ball surface to remove. Even acetone does not make a shiny ball dull. If the alcohol is making the surface dull there is a residue that is being left behind.
OMGoodness...
R U SERIOUS....We do this daily...
ANYONE ON THIS SITE CAN DO IT....
Take a brand new ball out of the box...one with a shiny polished/compound cover...
Apply alcohol, or reacta skuff or clean N dull to ONE SIDE OF BALL...
And then compare it to the other side...
It will indeed be different...LESS SHINNY...Therefore it will indeed roll up earlier...
Now I'm glad you have some CLASS...and do not use alcohol on your balls... ;D
Now please excuse me...You are giving me HEART BURN...and a HEAD ACHE... :D
I need to take a pill...and go watch Woman's golf... :P ;)
Have a nice day....
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JLS, I'm no fan of using alcohol for cleaning because it's not a degreasing agent. But to your question.
Isopropyl alcohol it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils.
Now are there better cleaners than just alcohol? Sure.
Note: Storm Reacta Skuff has Abrasives in it, so of course it will dull a ball.
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Steven...Keyword..."alters"....
Again...simply take a brand new in the box Hyper Cell Skid...It will be highly
SHINY...or what some people refer to as "highly polished"... :D
Then bowl with it...On a lighter oil pattern...
Then clean it with alcohol...
You will NOTICE that the ball is not as shiny or as some people say..."highly polished"...
Then go bowl with it on lighter oil patterns...
And trust me...You will not be able to play the same line...cause you will
punch the nose...
Now maybe if your ball speed is 19 MPH... you might get away with it...
But someone 40, 50, 60 or older...who has lost BALL SPEED...won't... >:(
And that sir...was the point...
Telling people it's ok to use alcohol on a polished / compound shiny ball is just plain wrong....All it will do is change the reaction of their ball...
It will roll up early and punch the nose...and if they don't have hand..and send it out...it will hang...
All we try to do is HELP BOWLERS...And since we have been doing it for over 3 weeks OR SO....It seems to be working... ;D ;)
I have about 30 feet of shelf space devoted to ball cleaners, polish, compounds, and pads...
Oh...we do not stock alcohol...
Last I heard...Even people in Mayberry no longer have dial up...or use alcohol... ;D :D
What some of these people here LOVE to do is PLAY with words...
Compounds polish etc etc...
It's simple...apply a higher level of polish or compound...and you will get more length...Reduce the level...you will get less...
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Rico, this is where you come in with your perfect and timely analogies. ;D
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I wouldnt use alcohol to clean. I tried it and thought it was stripping more than just residue, actually permeating the pores. I think the natural response, after bowling, is to get all that oil off you, and your clothes, and then the ball...so alcohol was my first thought, like some kind of gunk degreaser.
Now that I think of that though, has anyone ever tried mineral spirits ? I bet it would work great
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Because almost everyone always said that Isopropyl Alcohol is a cleaner and doesn't remove oil, I simply took their word for it and repeated same. After reading the arguments about it in this topic today, I decided to google it and found that it indeed says it removes oil. However, I don't know if it removes oil as well as ball cleaners that are specifically made to clean ball and remove oil or not.
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Isopropyl alcohol it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils.
Now are there better cleaners than just alcohol? Sure.
Note: Storm Reacta Skuff has Abrasives in it, so of course it will dull a ball.
I should have worded my earlier response better. I should have said it's not an effective bowling ball degreasing agent. I'm aware that Isopropyl alcohol is used for degreasing in some commercial applications. It seems to be used lot for cleaning hard metal surfaces.
But we all know that bowling balls are not solid surfaces -- they're porous. Alcohol evaporates quickly, and does not penetrate nearly as effective as other degreasing solvents. The only use my NuBall Rejuvenator gets is extracting oil from friend's balls that are ignored, or that are "cleaned" with alcohol. I just don't get the love affair many bowlers have with the product, other than it's cheap. ::)
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Isopropyl alcohol it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils.
Now are there better cleaners than just alcohol? Sure.
Note: Storm Reacta Skuff has Abrasives in it, so of course it will dull a ball.
I should have worded my earlier response better. I should have said it's not an effective bowling ball degreasing agent. I'm aware that Isopropyl alcohol is used for degreasing in some commercial applications. It seems to be used lot for cleaning hard metal surfaces.
But we all know that bowling balls are not solid surfaces -- they're porous. Alcohol evaporates quickly, and does not penetrate nearly as effective as other degreasing solvents. The only use my NuBall Rejuvenator gets is extracting oil from friend's balls that are ignored, or that are "cleaned" with alcohol. I just don't get the love affair many bowlers have with the product, other than it's cheap. ::)
Steven....It's from the Jackie Gleason Era of the 50's...That's all bowlers used to clean their hard rubber balls...And it was indeed a cheap cleaner...
Now it will indeed work well on belt marks on a ball...Nothing wrong with using it for that...All I was saying...If you have a polished ball...because you need one because the are dry...Then by using alcohol on your ball...you are removing, reducing, stripping
the polish/compound off the ball...
And that will indeed cause the ball to roll up early...Especially with older bowlers who
have lost their ball speed...
Now here is a simple test...
Take your ball and clean half of it with alcohol...
And then get a CLEAN TOWEL and re do the same section with a decent ball cleaner...
That towel will be DIRTY....Because alcohol does not deep clean...It's ok for surface dirt...but it does not deep clean...
And just because someone says..."you can't strip off polish" <<<does not make that so....
And it's usually the Alcohol crowd that are the ones who complain about "COVER DEATH"...."the ball dies after 30 games"....Ya right...
They buy a HP 200 dollar ball...and use a $1.19 bottle of alcohol on it...
and wonder why their cover dies...
even duct tape...."can't fix stupid"
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Isopropyl alcohol it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils.
Now are there better cleaners than just alcohol? Sure.
Note: Storm Reacta Skuff has Abrasives in it, so of course it will dull a ball.
I should have worded my earlier response better. I should have said it's not an effective bowling ball degreasing agent. I'm aware that Isopropyl alcohol is used for degreasing in some commercial applications. It seems to be used lot for cleaning hard metal surfaces.
But we all know that bowling balls are not solid surfaces -- they're porous. Alcohol evaporates quickly, and does not penetrate nearly as effective as other degreasing solvents. The only use my NuBall Rejuvenator gets is extracting oil from friend's balls that are ignored, or that are "cleaned" with alcohol. I just don't get the love affair many bowlers have with the product, other than it's cheap. ::)
Steven....It's from the Jackie Gleason Era of the 50's...That's all bowlers used to clean their hard rubber balls...And it was indeed a cheap cleaner...
Now it will indeed work well on belt marks on a ball...Nothing wrong with using it for that...All I was saying...If you have a polished ball...because you need one because the are dry...Then by using alcohol on your ball...you are removing, reducing, stripping
the polish/compound off the ball...
And that will indeed cause the ball to roll up early...Especially with older bowlers who
have lost their ball speed...
Now here is a simple test...
Take your ball and clean half of it with alcohol...
And then get a CLEAN TOWEL and re do the same section with a decent ball cleaner...
That towel will be DIRTY....Because alcohol does not deep clean...It's ok for surface dirt...but it does not deep clean...
And just because someone says..."you can't strip off polish" <<<does not make that so....
And it's usually the Alcohol crowd that are the ones who complain about "COVER DEATH"...."the ball dies after 30 games"....Ya right...
They buy a HP 200 dollar ball...and use a $1.19 bottle of alcohol on it...
and wonder why their cover dies...
even duct tape...."can't fix stupid"
True, but you can usually hide stupid if you have enough. :)
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Milo....Even at Wal Mart... on sale....Duct Tape is still too expensive... ;D :D
Are you going to come over and play with the Boys...They seem to be having a good time....And everyday, more and more of the old gang are showing up...
now chop chop... ;D :D
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Milo....Even at Wal Mart... on sale....Duct Tape is still too expensive... ;D :D
Are you going to come over and play with the Boys...They seem to be having a good time....And everyday, more and more of the old gang are showing up...
now chop chop... ;D :D
As long as the loser secret agent man from Detroit is there, I ain't gonna be.
Hit and run over him with your car, then take a selfie of you with the carcass and we will talk. :o ;D
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jlpainintheass,
if you're so worried about the alcohol you better start reading up on the MSDS of the cleaners on the 30 ft of shelf space you have. Prolly gonna have to send a few back.
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Milo....Even at Wal Mart... on sale....Duct Tape is still too expensive... ;D :D
Are you going to come over and play with the Boys...They seem to be having a good time....And everyday, more and more of the old gang are showing up...
now chop chop... ;D :D
A thought just struck me, if the "boys" are having such a hoot over there, why are you here? And why do they keep coming back? ???
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Milo....Even at Wal Mart... on sale....Duct Tape is still too expensive... ;D :D
Are you going to come over and play with the Boys...They seem to be having a good time....And everyday, more and more of the old gang are showing up...
now chop chop... ;D :D
As long as the loser secret agent man from Detroit is there, I ain't gonna be.
Hit run over him with your car and take a selfie of you with the carcass and we will talk. :o ;D
Wow....you have history with him that I didn't know about...
But seriously...I think things have changed...Guys are being a lot nicer to each other...
They are even being NICE to ME... ??? ;D
So when and if I feel the need to be abused...I come here and post... ;)
No matter what you say...Bang...someone will jump on it...
Watch this...The sun comes up in the east and sets in the west...
Now watch how many will come on and say..."you can't strip polish"... ;D
duct tape "can't fix stupid"
ok Milo....Have a nice day...
"A thought just struck me, if the "boys" are having such a hoot over there, why are you here? And why do they keep coming back? ???"
Like I said...They are being too nice to me... ;D...."Am I dying" ;D
So I always know I can come over here and post...And get abused... ;D ;)
Now you know..."i'm like a Pit Bull....relentless... ;D :D
Now MAN UP and come play with us...The CJC needs their west coast leader... ;D :D
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Are you talking Simple green already in a spray bottle or the concentrate like I am talking about.
That would be the spray bottle, But the concentrate still has water in it also (I don't have the info sheet for it to get the percentage.)
By using the water in the other mix, your diluting the alcohol a lot. that's why you have to use the higher 94% alcohol. (the alcohol helps with residue removal & evaporation)
Given if you wanted to use concentrate, you should mix the concentrate separately as per the SGC instructions first. Then use that mix to make the 50/50 mix of SG & Alcohol.
As I said if you or or anybody wants to use a different mix, that's fine.
This whole 50/50 or 1/3rd mix debate has been going on for a long time and I'm sure will continue. As long as whatever mix someone uses cleans their ball to their satisfaction that's what counts.
Perfectly said, my man.
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where do you get the "wintergreen" alcohol? I see lots of people here flunked chemistry. Look up "surfactant". Look up "detergent". Amazing how people who don't use something will put it down and not use it.
I thought the un-moderated forum of this site was gone. Good imitation of it in this thread. You should all be ashamed.
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Orange clean, alcohol, and water. Roughly equal amounts of each.
No, I do not measure them out...
Orange clean from the spray bottle, not concentrate...
Works for me...
People that borrow it can't tell it isn't Ebonite's Energizer Cleaner..(That's the spray bottle I put it in ;) )
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I was told about the 1/3 SG, 1/3 alcohol and 1/3 water mixture on this site many years ago and have been using it and passing the info on to my bowling friends ever since. I have found that it cleans as well or better than any cleaner made just for bowling balls. I love Valentino's Remedy, but can honestly say I've used Remedy and followed with the Simple Green mixture and removed more dirt and oil. I will say that as part of my routine, I follow the Simple Green mixture with Windex and the ball is absolutely tacky clean afterwards. I do occasionally hot water bath or use Clean and Dull and have never lost performance on any ball I own!! I also will say the Simple Green mixture has never dulled any ball I've used it on!!!!!!!
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Don't know about that but it is nice to know that people have found out about how well this homemade cleaner works and are willing to talk about it. Sure beats paying $10-$15 a bottle for a fancy label with basically the same ingredients.
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Whats wrong with driving a BMW and being a nerd?
where do you get the "wintergreen" alcohol? I see lots of people here flunked chemistry. Look up "surfactant". Look up "detergent". Amazing how people who don't use something will put it down and not use it.
I thought the un-moderated forum of this site was gone. Good imitation of it in this thread. You should all be ashamed.
Excellent post. Sounds like a bunch of Cali, BMW driving, IT nerds in this thread.
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Yep. Wintergreen alcohol can be found at most places you find regular rubbing alcohol.
BTW - love my beamer!
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BTW - love my beamer!
BTW - It's Bimmer, unless you're talking about bikes, then Beamer would be correct :)
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BTW - love my beamer!
BTW - It's Bimmer, unless you're talking about bikes, then Beamer would be correct :)
I have both the BMW motorcycle and BMW car. The tag of "Beamer" works fine for both. :)
To the subject, there is a huge difference in the effectiveness of commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners, and cheap home brews. Anyone who has experimented seriously knows this. But if the objective is to achieve some level of cleaning without being 100% through, then experiment with home remedies at will.
Everything is a trade off.
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To the subject, there is a huge difference in the effectiveness of commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners, and cheap home brews. Anyone who has experimented seriously knows this. But if the objective is to achieve some level of cleaning without being 100% through, then experiment with home remedies at will.
I haven't yet found a home brew solution that is as effective as the commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners that I've tried. But the home brew cleaners, in my experience, are as effective as the 'approved anytime' cleaners out there (that I've tried). And much cheaper to boot.
I now use the home brew cleaners after every session. And probably the before and after cleaners once a week or so.
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To the subject, there is a huge difference in the effectiveness of commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners, and cheap home brews. Anyone who has experimented seriously knows this. But if the objective is to achieve some level of cleaning without being 100% through, then experiment with home remedies at will.
I haven't yet found a home brew solution that is as effective as the commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners that I've tried. But the home brew cleaners, in my experience, are as effective as the 'approved anytime' cleaners out there (that I've tried). And much cheaper to boot.
I now use the home brew cleaners after every session. And probably the before and after cleaners once a week or so.
Then you haven't tried LMB International High Performance cleaner. It will shame any commercial after market cleaner of which I am aware.
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BTW - love my beamer!
BTW - It's Bimmer, unless you're talking about bikes, then Beamer would be correct :)
I have both the BMW motorcycle and BMW car. The tag of "Beamer" works fine for both. :)
To the subject, there is a huge difference in the effectiveness of commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners, and cheap home brews. Anyone who has experimented seriously knows this. But if the objective is to achieve some level of cleaning without being 100% through, then experiment with home remedies at will.
Everything is a trade off.
Well, there you have it TDC, Robadat, and any others who have found great success with the homemade cleaners. If Steven says it isn't so, it isn't so. The arroganceof the above post is unbelievable.
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I'm not messing with success! No ball death ever!!!!
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I haven't yet found a home brew solution that is as effective as the commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners that I've tried. But the home brew cleaners, in my experience, are as effective as the 'approved anytime' cleaners out there (that I've tried). And much cheaper to boot.
I now use the home brew cleaners after every session. And probably the before and after cleaners once a week or so.
Then you haven't tried LMB International High Performance cleaner. It will shame any commercial after market cleaner of which I am aware.
Nope, I haven't tried any of the LMB products yet. Mostly because there are a few different ones and I wasn't sure which was which.
Now that you've specified the "High Performance" one, maybe I'll give that a shot next time. Out of curiosity, is it a gel type cleaner like Clean N Dull? Or a spray on liquid?
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I haven't yet found a home brew solution that is as effective as the commercial 'before and after competition' cleaners that I've tried. But the home brew cleaners, in my experience, are as effective as the 'approved anytime' cleaners out there (that I've tried). And much cheaper to boot.
I now use the home brew cleaners after every session. And probably the before and after cleaners once a week or so.
Then you haven't tried LMB International High Performance cleaner. It will shame any commercial after market cleaner of which I am aware.
Nope, I haven't tried any of the LMB products yet. Mostly because there are a few different ones and I wasn't sure which was which.
Now that you've specified the "High Performance" one, maybe I'll give that a shot next time. Out of curiosity, is it a gel type cleaner like Clean N Dull? Or a spray on liquid?
It's a spray that is alcohol based, but a very strong alcohol with a very strong aroma. If you have asthma or any lung disease, I'd suggest you not try it. It is approved for use during competition.
Buddies is the only online place that I know of that carries it. Unfortunately it is only available in 1 quart containers:
http://www.buddiesproshop.com/p-779-lmb-international-high-performance-bowling-ball-cleaner-32oz.aspx (http://www.buddiesproshop.com/p-779-lmb-international-high-performance-bowling-ball-cleaner-32oz.aspx)
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Amazing. Three replies and you've added nothing to the conversation.
Confident knowledge is not arrogance. Go hump someone else's leg. ::)
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It's unbefitting of me to hang out in this place for even 5 minutes. But with AB currently down for upgrades, I thought I'd enjoy a few laughs in this place.
Way to recruit new bowlers to the allbowling site, dude.
Are you one of the trolls that was banned from that site?
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It's unbefitting of me to hang out in this place for even 5 minutes. But with AB currently down for upgrades, I thought I'd enjoy a few laughs in this place.
Way to recruit new bowlers to the allbowling site, dude.
Are you one of the trolls that was banned from that site?
I believe he was because I surely don't recall reading a comment by him. As a matter of fact, I was asking some of the boys if they knew who he was because its always enjoyable to watch people call out certain arrogant users on here. Nobody has heard of him so he's just a BR regular trying to stir up shit by playing both sides of the fence. Sadly, its a common ploy by users of this site.