Author Topic: How do you bowl with a Urethane (Read 12821 times)

Zanatos1914 · « **on:** December 14, 2009, 12:36:20 PM »

I have this small problem and I just realize that I dont know how to bowl with a old urethane balls.. I have old hammer urethane and have trouble with using this ball.. Most balls with weight blocks I can spin and watch them come back but this ball moves less than my plastic and my normal release is spinning the ball and watching for the break point..

There is no break point or I guess I am over powering the ball...

Are urethanes just point and release balls because there is no real weight block?
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2 Fingers 4 Life
I Am The 3 Fingers Nightmare

BrunsMike · « **Reply #16 on:** December 17, 2009, 08:06:30 PM »

Urethane equipment can be a very helpful tool in the bag if you know how to use it. Lately all I've been using have been 2 pearl reactive ball's, 1 with a control drilling and the other with a label drilling. Both are fairly weak peice's for me. It's not uncommon for me to use my plastic ball all night long.

I'd love to have a Storm Natural in my hand's because of the urethane characteristic's. Having a ball that will most likely roll the same on just about any condition. The biggest difference between reactive, proactive, solid's vs. urethane is that the urethane has an arch when rolled. All the other equipment is less dependant on hand release's.
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Mike Zadler
"When in doubt, Pull out" - Rob Stone
Below, my stats from previous seasons:
http://members.bowl.com/SearchUSBC/ViewMember.aspx?prefix=552&suffix=12886

stormed1 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 18, 2009, 08:10:18 AM »

Accuracy is your best friend! You will have 3 boards to hit. They just won't all have arrows on them like with resin
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Arsenal: Mega Friction, S-75, Break Point x 2, Break x2,Break,Sideways,Clutch,Maniac,Awakening,Link,Hype urethane,Global Globe, 14# golden globe

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BigBaller · « **Reply #18 on:** December 18, 2009, 08:54:02 PM »

I realized today that resin is what has made bowling what it is. I can hook the lane with my natural. I got it today, 15.4 pounds 1.5 ounce top weight 3.5 inch pin drilled 1:30 and i can belly the ball. But man is it smooth... If you are a fluffer you will not be able to roll it like i do, but i have nothng but good to say about it.
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Obviously you were not listening to your ball...

JohnP · « **Reply #19 on:** December 19, 2009, 10:58:19 AM »

quote:
Urethane does not hook less then resin. It just hooks in a different part of the lane then resin.

I have to disagree with the first part of this statement. My strongest urethane ball (I also have an original Black Hammer and a Nail), the Slate Blue Gargoyle, breaks less than my weakest resin ball, the PG Dry/R. On the same lane, same release, same target, I have to move about two boards left on the approach to hold the pocket when switching from the SB to the Dry/R. You are correct about urethane hooking in a different part of the lane. -- JohnP

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #20 on:** December 21, 2009, 02:04:14 AM »

quote:
Urethane will skid through the heads just like resin with enough oil, and the same surface prep. The reason urethane often hooked early was that we kept the surface much rougher.

That's the point.

quote:
There are two kinds of friction.

So far, so good

quote:
Resin gets its friction from a chemical reaction which reacts to the dry but not the oil. Urethane gets its friction from roughness which tends to react earlier in the oil. Polish a urethane to 4000 abralon, and it will get through the heads just as good as resin, but still won't grab the dry as hard.

Resin covers create both friction through surface prep and the surface/material texture. They are porous (think of reactive resin as a microscopic sponge), and this enhances traction a lot, compared to polyester and urethane. The material is also much more prone to increase traction through heat, due to its (relative) softness. But that's also a factor that makes urethane's recatio much different from modern equipment.

Another thing are the cores. In the urethane days, cores used to be much weaker (less differential) than today's designs. This would also make the ball distribute its motion more even down the lane.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

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janderson · « **Reply #21 on:** December 22, 2009, 11:58:43 AM »

quote:
quote:
Urethane will skid through the heads just like resin with enough oil, and the same surface prep. The reason urethane often hooked early was that we kept the surface much rougher. There are two kinds of friction. Resin gets its friction from a chemical reaction which reacts to the dry but not the oil. Urethane gets its friction from roughness which tends to react earlier in the oil. Polish a urethane to 4000 abralon, and it will get through the heads just as good as resin, but still won''t grab the dry as hard.

Sorry but this is just BS. There is no chemical reaction taking place. That is all marketing BS and anybody with a high school education should know it, that is unless public education has really toileted. Resin makes the ball slide more in oil store energy longer, and grab harder on dry. Yes you can get urethane to skid with enough oil, but it will never slide as much as resin.

There''s a reason why it is called "reactive resin". You''re correct in that there is no "chemical reaction" unless by "chemical reaction" you mean the chemicals in the bowling ball react to heat created by friction. It is much simpler than that. As used in the construction of bowling balls - resin has a lower coefficient of sliding friction than urethane, polyester, or rubber. That means more friction is created (and created quicker) between the surface of the lane and the surface of the ball. When resin heats, it becomes tackier which provides more friction and more hook. Urethane without resin, polyester, and rubber all do the same thing - heat with friction and become tacky - but do so at a much slower rate. When a resin ball transitions from a part of the lane with oil to the dry back-end it "reacts" quickly - heats up, creating a high amount of friction and that big (potentially) back end reaction.

As previously posted, today''s cover stocks are reportedly more porous (microscopically) and capable of removing conditioner from the lane thus also increasing friction in that manner.

Particle additives help the ball (again microscopically) work more like a studded snow tire on a patch of ice than a typical snow tire on a patch of ice.

To the original poster - Aside from the cover stock of today''s equipment, there is also the core to consider. Disagreeing with a previous post, most of the early urethane balls did not have a core beyond a basic pancake core. Almost all of today''s equipment have a core that can help a spinner (as you describe yourself) because the core of the ball will help the ball transition from spin to roll. Pancake cores can not do this as easily/quickly.
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J.J. "Better than Jello" Anderson - Kill the back row

Edited on 12/22/2009 1:13 PM

Author Topic: How do you bowl with a Urethane (Read 12821 times)

Zanatos1914

How do you bowl with a Urethane

BrunsMike

Re: How do you bowl with a Urethane

stormed1

Re: How do you bowl with a Urethane

BigBaller

Re: How do you bowl with a Urethane

JohnP

Re: How do you bowl with a Urethane

dizzyfugu

Re: How do you bowl with a Urethane

janderson

Re: How do you bowl with a Urethane