BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: bowler838 on October 20, 2014, 12:27:08 PM
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I just bought their personal ball oven and it seems to work well except none of all balls seem to bleed out oil. I've had one bleed oil out and that was a gamebreaker. Any ideas? The bowling balls do get hot just cant figure it out why when i check on them, the ball is warm to touch but no oil appears. Anyone have any experience with them?
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I have had no issues with mine and ive had it for years. I have it set at 140 degrees and once it gets to about 115-120 I can see the ball start to bleed oil if theres oil in the ball. I dont run mine for the full 45 minutes though, I run every ball for 20-25 minutes and take it out a couple of times just to wipe off some of the excess oil off the ball. maybe your setting is not correct or there just not getting warm enough to bleed the oil out..
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Ya I'm going to try to make it warmer. I had one ball bleed so far but the others wont. It's weird
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What you're experiencing is not unusual. I have a NuBall (basically the same thing) and I've found that some balls give back a lot of oil, while others give back little or nothing. I contacted the owner of NuBall to discuss, and he confirmed its not unusual. Others have reported the same behavior in other threads on BR.
Most of the balls (for me) that have bled profusely have been from EBI. I don't know if that's true for others or not.
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So does that mean since they are not bleeding they aren't losing any oil basically right?
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Ya I'm going to try to make it warmer. I had one ball bleed so far but the others wont. It's weird
Be careful how "warm" you make it. I don't know its settings, but some manufacturers stipulate not to heat their balls higher than 120 degrees; others say 140 degrees.
Theoretically 140 - 150 degrees is the range at which the plasticizers (that which makes urethane into resin, as far as I have learned) start to leech from the ball. You don't want that to happen. I go no higher than 140 degrees, personally.
If you're cleaning the balls after every league session, that will very much reduce the amount of oil absorbed. It won't stop the absorption. When I first got my NuBall, I went treated 10 balls before I got one that released its captured oil. I just did a teammate's Marvel Pearl; he said it hadn't been cleaned in 100 games roughly. I got 1/2 - 3/4 of a jigger of oil out it.
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I always wipe a ball before every shot with a microfiber towel and usually hit it with ball cleaner on the spinner to clean the gunk off the surface from my local center. I keep the temp within range as suggested by innovative. My gamebreaker bleeds so that makes me feel better but I've never seen a ball soak like that does.
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You don't want to get it hotter. If between 125-150 no oil comes out after 30minutes then you are done and on to the next. Not all bowling balls are sponges. Many will obsorb very little oil depending on surface finish.
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Don't you have to do a bit of surface prep to properly bleed them of the oil? I look forward to getting one or making one, so I need to know!!
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That's a good question. I've never thought about prep work for surface .
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Couple things. Some manufacturers temperature ceiling for warranty purposes are 125, some are 140. Taking the surface of the ball to 1000 or 500 before an oil extraction opens up the pores of the ball, allowing the oil to come out easier. Storm brands and Ebonite brands soak up oil the quickest, with Storm being moderately high to Hammer being impossibly astronomical. When I Detox, I get a moderate amount of oil out of 80% of Storm balls, but I get a TON of oil out of 100% of Hammer balls. Brunswick brands and Motiv soak up very little and retain their reaction the longest with the least amount of maintenance by far. Billy Orlikowski said at a recent seminar/workshop on some of their new releases that the Detox was also the safest and most efficient means of oil extraction, so if you have access to one of those, that will be your best option. He DID say that normally he wouldn't recommend anything using water, because that the filler material between the core and the coverstock doesn't like water, but being that the ball is exposed to more water during a typical resurface than during a Detox treatment, and that a treatment exposes the ball to a higher temperature for far shorter a duration than with just dry heat based extraction, it's safer for the ball overall.
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Mo recommends 360grit before baking.
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It's definitely a good idea, but you've also just significantly altered your surface too . . and some people are skeptics. "Well are you sure it doesn't just hook more because you changed the surface?" Well when the water was clear a half hour ago, and now it looks like 1% milk, yeah, pretty sure . .
Mo recommends 360grit before baking.
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Don't you have to do a bit of surface prep to properly bleed them of the oil? I look forward to getting one or making one, so I need to know!!
Doom, I have the Nu Ball Rejuvenator. The instructions do not require or recommend any surface preparation before you use the unit.
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I've experimented with taking a few balls down to 360 before NuBall treatments. The most recent were a Motiv Raptor P7 and Storm ROP that weren't giving back any oil. The 360 made no difference -- nothing oozed.
To charlest's point, if you wipe you balls down between shots and clean immediately after, there is a good chance nothing will be visably extracted. At least that's been my experience.
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Couple things. Some manufacturers temperature ceiling for warranty purposes are 125, some are 140. Taking the surface of the ball to 1000 or 500 before an oil extraction opens up the pores of the ball, allowing the oil to come out easier. Storm brands and Ebonite brands soak up oil the quickest, with Storm being moderately high to Hammer being impossibly astronomical. When I Detox, I get a moderate amount of oil out of 80% of Storm balls, but I get a TON of oil out of 100% of Hammer balls. Brunswick brands and Motiv soak up very little and retain their reaction the longest with the least amount of maintenance by far. Billy Orlikowski said at a recent seminar/workshop on some of their new releases that the Detox was also the safest and most efficient means of oil extraction, so if you have access to one of those, that will be your best option. He DID say that normally he wouldn't recommend anything using water, because that the filler material between the core and the coverstock doesn't like water, but being that the ball is exposed to more water during a typical resurface than during a Detox treatment, and that a treatment exposes the ball to a higher temperature for far shorter a duration than with just dry heat based extraction, it's safer for the ball overall.
I'm confused. Are you saying that submerging a ball for 45-60 minutes in hot water subjects the ball to less water than during a resurface? I use a fair amount of water during a resurface keeping the pads wet, but it takes me way less than 45 minutes to do a resurface. Also, how can Billy say that water is bad in general for balls because of the filler material, but it's OK for a Detox treatment. Either water is OK or it's not. And it you believe that the oscillation from the Detox has a positive effect on the oil removal, the hot water must make more "contact" with the filler material.
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ttt
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Its never been good for any ball to be soaked in hot wated unless your to tape up all the holes so the water dont soak into the filler Material. I have always seen oil bleed out of all my 900 Global balls over the years and other ball brands with in a short amount of time. Like I said before, It helps if you take the ball out a couple of times while it is running and whip the ball to help remove some of the excess oil that the pads dont pick up. my rejuvinator is set at 140 degrees and ive not had any issues what so ever with any brand of ball getting to hot while they are being de oiled and ive have yet to change the surface on any ball to help the ball bleed, to me thats just a waste of time and not called plus it makes more work 4 u getting the ball back to the finish it had before you started. I run mine through the rejuvinator about every 2-3 weeks Its a nice thing to have sitting around, The rejuvinators are not cheap but made my money back off of it with in the 1st year and a half :)