Post by: Sn on October 10, 2006, 02:04:25 AM
What I care most about is that the ball must have a decent hitting power. (Or do mid-priced balls never hit hard? I wonder)
Preferred brands: Storm, Roto Grip, Dyno-thane or Ebonite.
Many thanks!
Post by: pnj1967 on October 10, 2006, 10:06:18 AM
http://www.bowling.com/products/track-equation.htm
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Enjoy the people on the ballreview.com forum. Like to help when I can.
Edited on 10/10/2006 10:01 AM
Post by: shelley on October 10, 2006, 10:09:21 AM
SH
Post by: Sn on October 10, 2006, 10:11:11 AM
quote:
Track Equation
http://www.bowling.com/products/track-equation.htm
Does this ball hit hard? This one seems to be quite new and I've not heard anything about it yet. However I have some doubt on Track's balls because of the comments given by some of my friends.
Thanks.
Post by: Atochabsh on October 10, 2006, 10:11:46 AM
But I would suggest the Hammer Doom (pearl) or Hammer Pain (dull) in the mid price range. Get the Pain if you see more medium to heavy and the Doom for medium to dry. If you have more medium to dry you might also consider the Ebonite Ice at an even lower price range. The Big Time and Big Time Pearl by Ebonite are also good bargins for the power.
Erin
Post by: pnj1967 on October 10, 2006, 10:14:38 AM
quote:quote:
Track Equation
http://www.bowling.com/products/track-equation.htm
Does this ball hit hard? This one seems to be quite new and I've not heard anything about it yet. However I have some doubt on Track's balls because of the comments given by some of my friends.
Thanks.
Great ball, Med. to almost Med heavy. Yes does hit hard.
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Enjoy the people on the ballreview.com forum. Like to help when I can.
Post by: Sn on October 10, 2006, 10:18:19 AM
Actually I prefer a ball in the medium-oil to medium-dry range due to my low ball speed. However it seems that most balls in this range do not have great hitting power. The ball need not be a new release.
Also, does anyone have compared Horizon with Horizon Solid, and 44 Magnum with 357 Magnum? I see the Horizon and 44 Magnum are suggested but I'm just curious to see if the other two hit the same.
Thanks again!
Post by: bamaster on October 10, 2006, 10:58:52 AM
quote:
44 Magnum. Polished will get you bordering on medium-light and box to duller will eat medium to medium-heavy for lunch.
SH
I'll echo that.
It's the strongest Vendetta to date. (I have a 15lb I can sell ya!
) A close second recommendation would be the Vendetta Black, it's been in production for over three years. How many performance balls can claim that.?
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Tony
My Bowling Classifieds (http://"http://www.allbowling.com/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=500&ppuser=3")
My Bowling Journal (http://"http://www.allbowling.com/journal/public.php?uid=3&leagueid=1") | My Ball Registry & Grip Specs (http://"http://www.allbowling.com/registry/public.php?regid=5")
Post by: azus on October 10, 2006, 11:02:40 AM
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I like my coffee black, just like my metal.
What would Chuck Norris do?
Post by: shelley on October 10, 2006, 11:09:12 AM
quote:
Thanks for all the input.
Actually I prefer a ball in the medium-oil to medium-dry range due to my low ball speed. However it seems that most balls in this range do not have great hitting power. The ball need not be a new release.
For medium to medium-light, the 357 would be a better choice than the 44. It's all-pearl rather than solid-pearl mix and it's also polished.
SH
Post by: thirtyclean on October 10, 2006, 11:14:27 AM
polished. Very versatile !
Thirtyclean
Post by: charlest on October 10, 2006, 11:20:46 AM
quote:
Thanks for all the input.
Also, does anyone have compared Horizon with Horizon Solid, and 44 Magnum with 357 Magnum? I see the Horizon and 44 Magnum are suggested but I'm just curious to see if the other two hit the same.
Thanks again!
What is this with "hit"?
Maybe you have not yet realized it, but every ball will hit hard if you get the right ball for your lane condition and for your release, when drilled reasonably.
What hits hard for one person, hits like crap for the next person, on the same lane condition+lane surface.
If you have both low ball speed and low revs (as you say in your profile), you need to watch your combination of ball strength and cover preparation very closely. You probably need a stronger than average ball for mediums, but will probably need either a finer surface or some level of polish.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: charlest on October 10, 2006, 11:23:00 AM
quote:quote:
Thanks for all the input.
Actually I prefer a ball in the medium-oil to medium-dry range due to my low ball speed. However it seems that most balls in this range do not have great hitting power. The ball need not be a new release.
For medium to medium-light, the 357 would be a better choice than the 44. It's all-pearl rather than solid-pearl mix and it's also polished.
SH
If he has low revs and low ball speed, I wonder if the pearl 357 would suit him; I think it wouldn't. I'm thinking the 44. Maybe the 44 dulled down + polish, If he's talking TRUE mediums.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: snowgimp on October 10, 2006, 11:37:08 AM
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Be a good Irish boys friend...www.myspace.com/snowgimp
Hi, my name is Brian and I'm a recovering Brunswick user. Thanks Rotogrip!
-"That Kangaroo stole my ball"
-"It's like a tire fire, trying to put it out only makes it worse. You've just gotta let it burn... grab a beer and let it burn.'
Post by: shelley on October 10, 2006, 11:42:10 AM
quote:
If he has low revs and low ball speed, I wonder if the pearl 357 would suit him; I think it wouldn't. I'm thinking the 44. Maybe the 44 dulled down + polish, If he's talking TRUE mediums.
Could be. I was a low-speed, low-rev guy for a long time. Still probably am, by most standards, and I have had trouble with weak equipment not wanting to move. You're probably right about the 44. Lower grit plus polish might be the way to go. I haven't been one to change surfaces much, so I didn't consider that as a possibility.
SH
Post by: Duke of Earl on October 10, 2006, 12:28:03 PM
Post by: Sn on October 10, 2006, 12:54:58 PM
Actually I am too lazy to update my profile. Still I am having a low ball speed, but the rev rate has increased a bit. Now I find it very difficult to use any heavy oil balls, and I usually use a Tropical Storm to play a 38-feet freshly oiled THS. So if I were to choose among the 44 and 357 Magnums, I suppose the 357 would be the better bet.
Another question: what are the effects brought about by dulling down + polishing a ball? You mentioned that they would suit low-rev low-speed bowlers more. Why?
Thanks again!
quote:
If he has low revs and low ball speed, I wonder if the pearl 357 would suit him; I think it wouldn't. I'm thinking the 44. Maybe the 44 dulled down + polish, If he's talking TRUE mediums.
Post by: charlest on October 10, 2006, 01:06:04 PM
quote:
Another question: what are the effects brought about by dulling down + polishing a ball? You mentioned that they would suit low-rev low-speed bowlers more. Why?
Low rev bowlers need stronger balls than average. I didn't imply you need and oiler, but the 44 is for medium + oil and the 357 is more for medium - (a little bit) of oil.
Low speed bowlers generally need some help getting the ball thru the heads and into the midlane to allow the ball to do "its stuff". So with the lower rev bowler needing a stronger (read earlier lane grabbing) ball, he/she also needs the ball to get past the heads cleanly so as not to lose all its energy.
So, the 2000 grit (stock surface) on the 44 magnum MIGHT (I repeat), might lose too much energy in the heads and start its hook cycle too early. To prevent this or better wording, to counter-balance this, one could sand it down to 600 or 800 grit and then put a light coat of polish on it. The polish helps it get thru the heads and somewhere into the midlane before it starts hooking. The actual sanding grit level PLUS the amoutn of polish is a balancing act for the bowler's release and ball speed.
Because there are so many variables invovled, to start with, one makes the best educated guess they can (either the driller or the bowler or the coach should do this) and then takes it back to the shop to make follow-up adjustments, as needed.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: shelley on October 10, 2006, 01:12:09 PM
quote:
Another question: what are the effects brought about by dulling down + polishing a ball? You mentioned that they would suit low-rev low-speed bowlers more. Why?
The grit under the polish still affects length and backend, just as if it were sanded. Some polishes have abrasives in them to leave the ball at some approximate grit under the polish. Storm's Step 1, 2, and 3 polishes are like that. Some polishes don't have a grit in them, and the surface underneath remains the same. Brunswick's Factory Finish is grit-less.
If you were to simply apply a polish to the 44 Magnum, you'd end up with a high-grit polished ball. It starts out at 2000-grit sanded, and even with abrasive polishes, you'll have a high-grit surface under the polish. Might be too over/under. By bringing the surface down to, say, 400-800-grit, then polishing, you'll smooth out some of the backend and restore some control.
SH
Post by: Sn on October 10, 2006, 01:24:55 PM
And a high-grit surface under polish would cause over/under reactions? I thought a ball would never hook with that. How come sanding it before polishing would reduce the problem? (Maybe another stupid question)
Thanks!
Post by: alcornel on October 10, 2006, 01:26:08 PM
I got this ball becuase it is verstile on a variety of lane conditions. As the BTM review said "The particle pearl cover allows the Pyro to handle a wider variety of lane conditions."
I really like mine when breakdown occurs. It isn't overly jumply like my solid reactives. I have also been able to use it from Med-Dry to Med-Oily
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Andy
Las Vegas, NV
http://members.bowl.com/FindAMember/memberView.aspx?ms=31013&mp=1560&s=2005-2006
Post by: shelley on October 10, 2006, 02:03:10 PM
quote:
Polishing the ball adds length. Bring down the grit number under the polish would restore the backend hook. So the net result is that the ball would "go longer" and "snap harder"? It is what most bowlers want! Should all bowlers be doing the sanding + polishing on their balls so that they retain most energy and still hooks? Perhaps it is a very stupid question. But I need to clear things up.
But "go long snap hard" isn't always the best way to score. On a fresh shot with clean backends, an angular, hockey-stick reaction can create more angle at the pocket, giving a higher strike probability. But when they break down and some of the oil carries down, the backends aren't so fresh and the reaction can be really hit-or-miss. Sometimes it finds a dry board a pinch early, sometimes that board's got oil on it and it slides too far. You may also have to play too far left for comfort.
For longer oil, conditions where there isn't a dry bounce area (like the US Open pattern and many other sport shots), or conditions where there's a lot of spotty oil downlane, smoother, more arcing reactions will be more consistent rather than over/under like angular hockey-stick reactions.
quote:
And a high-grit surface under polish would cause over/under reactions? I thought a ball would never hook with that. How come sanding it before polishing would reduce the problem? (Maybe another stupid question)
Higher grit sanding tends to give length and backend, lower grit levels give more midlane (or sooner) with tamer backends. Putting polish on a ball that's already got a high-grit finish can give too much length and backend to be manageable. It might skid too far, never reacting properly or it might have too much backend. By sanding it down to 400-800 grit before polishing, you give it more midlane than a higher grit sanding beneath the polish. The polish helps it get through the heads, just like charlest said, while the surface underneath gives it some midlane read and reduces the angularity in the back.
SH
Post by: BOWL119 on October 10, 2006, 04:29:24 PM
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T.J.
BOWLING IS FUN NO MATTER WHAT YOU SCORE. BUT A 300 IS ALWAYS NICE.
STRIKE ZONE & PYRO. STAND 15 AND THROW 10 OUT TO 5 AND SMASH THE POCKET. AT LEAST THAT IS THE PLAN OF THE NIGHT...
Post by: Atochabsh on October 10, 2006, 09:00:08 PM
But if you are using a Tropical Storm on a freshly oiled house shot at 38 feet, you're going to need to move to a different area on the lane to play with just about anything else.
I see that you have gradually gone up in weight on the balls you've used in the past. Are you seeing less ball speed now that you are at 15? Is 15lb too heavy for you maybe?
I would maybe suggest instead of a new ball, is some coaching that can teach you how to gain more ball speed and revs. You say you have a 14lb One. That ball should be doing all kinds of tricks on the lane. All these balls and notes on "didn't work here", "didn't work on this" that its beginning to sound more like a coaching issue. You may need more verstatility in your game so that you can get the best out of all these pieces of equipment you have bought. You can't just depend on changing balls for various lanes and transitions.
Erin
Post by: Sn on October 11, 2006, 09:12:09 AM
quote:
You have a Tropical Storm? That's entry level. Just about anything in the next price range is going to be better then a Tropical Storm. Even Tornados hit better then Tropical Storms, IMO.
But if you are using a Tropical Storm on a freshly oiled house shot at 38 feet, you're going to need to move to a different area on the lane to play with just about anything else.
I see that you have gradually gone up in weight on the balls you've used in the past. Are you seeing less ball speed now that you are at 15? Is 15lb too heavy for you maybe?
I would maybe suggest instead of a new ball, is some coaching that can teach you how to gain more ball speed and revs. You say you have a 14lb One. That ball should be doing all kinds of tricks on the lane. All these balls and notes on "didn't work here", "didn't work on this" that its beginning to sound more like a coaching issue. You may need more verstatility in your game so that you can get the best out of all these pieces of equipment you have bought. You can't just depend on changing balls for various lanes and transitions.
Erin
Thanks Erin.
When I stepped up from 14lb to 15lb equipments my ball speed kept more or less the same, but the rev rate has increased significantly. I don't think 15lb is too heavy for me, but usually I need a few more frames than using 14lb as warm up every night I bowl.
The 14lb One was a great ball and I shot my high game with it. I got more success with 14lb equipments but I just wondered if I still haven't get used to 15lb. I believe that when I get the hang of the 15lb balls I can perform better than using 14lb. This is just my belief. I could be wrong.
Post by: charlest on October 11, 2006, 09:55:16 AM
Erin is right; it COULD BE a coaching issue. I can't say for certain.
Also shelley's summary is good. One important factor is, again, everything, ball, surface and release adjustments are all relative to the ball or the bowler. The combination has to be right.
You said:
"So the net result is that the ball would "go longer" and "snap harder"? It is what most bowlers want."
It does not necessarily make the ball more snappy. It DOES make the ball retain energy longer. The ball, with low ball speed, may be "burning up" early. Modifying the surface may not even bring into "snap" territory.
Originally, I was only suggesting this because your profile said you had low ball speed.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Post by: Noy on October 11, 2006, 11:09:45 AM
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Bowling Since March 2006 - "Get coaching, don't worry about it"...blah blah balh...Just answer the questions please
Arsenal:
Hammer Pain (1000 grit)
Hammer Black Widow
Track Equation
Storm Spare Ball
Post by: rhinotec on October 11, 2006, 11:00:54 PM
Ebonite; Big Time Pearl
Storm; Diablo
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When the pins start throwing stuff at me is when I'll quit bowling.