BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: billdozer on February 23, 2018, 01:25:08 PM
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I punched up a ball intended to have a low flare potential.
Finally threw it last night and got probably be 2" of flare, tops. If I really hit up on it, maybe 3". Rolled "decent" after 3 league games on the broken down THS. But I wanna know when is the right time for this ball.
...I've never really had an intended drilling, or ball with the intention of "low flare."
Question: In your past experiences, when has low flare been the ball of choice for you, when you have scored well with it.
(Most of my stuff flares a good 5-7+ inches)
Thanks!
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You have the IQ Fusion listed as in your bag so throw this ball where you throw that.
I highly doubt the Fusion flares 5-7+ inches for you.
As for what conditions, I like low flare balls for tough condition where I don't want a big motion anywhere on the lane, especially at the end of the pattern. Like say the USBC Open.
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Low Flare balls are just that low flare balls; they have no specific purpose except that of the ball itself. Remember that cover/surface is most of the ball reaction.
From what I have used and from what I have seen, Low flare non-shiny solids can be control balls. The operative word is "Can". More of the ball reaction depends on the coverstock and its surface than on the core and the drilling.
I have seen polished low-flare pearls be as flippy as any large flare polished pearl. The low flare doesn't make it controllable. The low flare just reduces the overall hook and tends to add length before the ball hooks. A low flare ball can be just as uncontrollably flippy as a large flare. The only difference may be the amount of backend, NOT the sharpness or flippiness of that backend.
A friend's IQ Tour Solid, a notoriously controllable ball, is one of his strongest backending balls and he is speed dominant.
So for the majority of cases a low flare ball's purpose is to hook less than a large flare ball, all other factors being equal. Once you factor in what the coverstock is designed to do TOGETHER WITH the core, then and only then can you decide on the controllability factor of the entire as-drilled ball.
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Charlest's answer is also correct of course.
But reading what Charlest posted, a question arose in my mind; Why would you drill a ball for low flare if you had no idea where you might use it? Just sayin... ;D
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Charlest's answer is also correct of course.
But reading what Charlest posted, a question arose in my mind; Why would you drill a ball for low flare if you had no idea where you might use it? Just sayin... ;D
If you drill a normal flaring ball with a 2" or a 5.5" pin-PAP, I would hope you had some very specific reason for using a drilling at the far ends of a bell curve.
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What ball did u punch up?
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I’ve often wondered if you drilled up a strong ball with a control layout would it even be beneficial ??
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Charlest's answer is also correct of course.
But reading what Charlest posted, a question arose in my mind; Why would you drill a ball for low flare if you had no idea where you might use it? Just sayin... ;D
If you drill a normal flaring ball with a 2" or a 5.5" pin-PAP, I would hope you had some very specific reason for using a drilling at the far ends of a bell curve.
Agreed, that's why the question came up for me. Was it just trying something different, a suggestion or ??
I like having a low flaring ball available, but I know where/when I'm going to use it.
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Charlest's answer is also correct of course.
But reading what Charlest posted, a question arose in my mind; Why would you drill a ball for low flare if you had no idea where you might use it? Just sayin... ;D
If you drill a normal flaring ball with a 2" or a 5.5" pin-PAP, I would hope you had some very specific reason for using a drilling at the far ends of a bell curve.
Agreed, that's why the question came up for me. Was it just trying something different, a suggestion or ??
I like having a low flaring ball available, but I know where/when I'm going to use it.
Since I'm rev dominant and see a lot of very light oil, I tend to specialize in low RG differential/low flaring cores., with a few normal flaring balls usually working with weaker coverstocks. So I feel comfortable saying they are low flaring balls like the IQ Tour pearls and the Ebonite Nitro that can be quite flippy, while low flaring balls like the Visionary Centaur, AMF Orbit Extreme, Lord Field Exodus Pearl and the Lane Masters Wasp are almost impossible to make flippy.
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Once you achieve a separation of tracks thru flare on a ball simply increasing the amount of distance the flares are apart doesn't really gain you anything.
So even with lower differential ball releases can still give that separation so that a clean part of the ball is exposed to the lane.
Flippyness is more a function of lane condition, cover stock prep, and finally RG.
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I punched a 900 global break down, haven't really used it. I figured it would be similar to the iq tour solid in terms of it's place in the bag. Just wanted to try it for $85. I just haven't had this low flare of a ball in quite some time.
Yes it goes long, and for the most part doesn't over react, I'd assume it's close to the hot cell, minus the flare part! Lol
(https://www.ballreviews.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi890.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac110%2F_billdozer%2F20180222_205259_zpsnasktgsb.jpg&hash=06420bb47087952b69038d63572f1789121b4e2c) (http://s890.photobucket.com/user/_billdozer/media/20180222_205259_zpsnasktgsb.jpg.html)
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Potential is the operative word. Any ball can be layed out to minimize flare. A low diff ball can be layed out to flare more than a high differential ball. Pins placedvery near or very far away from PAP minimize flare significantly regardless of the potential we with the pin at max differential position. A littleore complicated on asymetricals but theory is the same
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A logical use to me for a low flare drilling would be for drying conditions with some oil left on the lane. The oil left in your track could give you some added length. This added length benefit might outweigh the effect of the little bit of carry down you might get. You could keep your line farther out for a few more frames if you don't want to leap left and find the heavier oil line.
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I have 2 low flaring balls, both for Nationals and other sport patterns.
The tour Sic which Mitch Beasley recommended with a 2" pin.
Able to keep my angles straighter and keep it in play, with the correct surface, it is continuous
Also, punched up a 2" pin Nitrous for last years Nats team pattern, went with 2000 dull which got me +40 after 2 games, had nothing in game 3 for a 180
The Nitrous has also been good at a couple out of town tournaments that had friction up front
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Lower flare works when you need a less drastic change in direction, but you have to know when to ball up. I've had several balls with 2inch pins from pap, and while they were great going up the lane, getting in and wheeling on it wasn't the best plan of attack.
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Agree. Made a ton of money with a couple of 2 inch pin layouts over the years. Even had some luck getting as deep as 15, because the back ends were still flying on HPL as I moved in
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Lower flare works when you need a less drastic change in direction,
Not necessarily true.
Low flare will make for less of a backend, but the backend can be just as sharp, just a flippy as a larger flaring core.
The sharpness of the backend, its flippiness, is more dependent on the bowler and the coverstock's characteristics and the oil pattern/amount, not so much on the amount of flare.
but you have to know when to ball up. I've had several balls with 2inch pins from pap, and while they were great going up the lane, getting in and wheeling on it wasn't the best plan of attack.
2" pin-PAPs will also reduce the drilled RG, making the ball hook earlier, while reducing the amount of backend. So you won't be able to play as deep as with a 3.5-4.5" pin-PAP - so, agreed.
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I don't use low flaring layouts on real long patterns or on a lot of carry down. When I do use it it stands up early but with a hard change of direction. I get a sharp move while staying behind the ball
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Well, it also matters what your Val angle is. 2*30 is going to behave different from 2*65. I had a Money with a 1 inch pin, and the Val angle was probably about 70 with a hole on the PAP. You want to smooth out a house shot, do that. Strong particle cover, stable drilling.
Hmm... Maybe I should do that on an Absolute truth.
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My hole concept was, "oh boy it's an assym low diff like the zero gravity? Is that gonna be like the iq tour?" Hopefully.
Then I punched it, and finally threw it, and saw the actual flare on the ball. And now my thought process is, "where is this actually gonna fit?"
So far it's weaker than my iq tour...which is impressive...I am intrigued that I could possibly be able to "load up" on the ball late in blocks or on broken down conditions.
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I always had the best luck using a short pin and basically using a 2x2 layout with an axis hole to give a legal static weight. Works best for me on symmetrical solids without a lot of surface
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My whole concept was, "oh boy it's an assym low diff like the zero gravity? Is that gonna be like the iq tour?" Hopefully.
Then I punched it, and finally threw it, and saw the actual flare on the ball. And now my thought process is, "where is this actually gonna fit?"
So far it's weaker than my iq tour...which is impressive...I am intrigued that I could possibly be able to "load up" on the ball late in blocks or on broken down conditions.