BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: eg bagger on March 05, 2016, 09:38:41 PM
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This may sound like it's out there but let me explain, what temperature is considered "safe" for maximum oil extraction? There are many different types of professional oil extractors on the market, generally what temperature range do they work at?
The reason I ask is I've done a hot water soak and also the ball in dry sweep methods before with solid results and I want to take that to the next level. I have a Sous Vide immersion cooker that can be set to an exact temperature in whole degrees, (it works amazing for reheating a perfectly rare piece of left over prime rib by the way.) It wasn't too expensive and the food never actually contacts the water so there isn't a risk of contamination or anything, plus if it works this will become my oil extractor and I'll buy the top shelf one for cooking (the first one was mostly a trial purchase.)
I know it sounds off the wall but my cheapness knows no bounds! Thanks in advance for any input.
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its definitely a risk to do what you are talking about
I have the innovative personal revivor and its gets pretty hot
best I can say, is that its hot to the touch, I can still handle it, but its hot
guessing that's 105-110F
Again, just a guess though
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What is the risk though? The Jayhawk extractor uses heated water to extract oil so how exactly is this different? I think in many specialty hobbies we tell ourselves the only way to achieve something is by buying a specialty product from a retailer in our exact hobby.
I spent over 10 years in the reefing hobby, if you think bowling is expensive or exclusive you have no idea what you are talking about. In that hobby many of us figured out hacks so to speak to not only make the hobby cheaper but also better for those involved. I am simply looking to do the same in this new hobby of mine.
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risk is you make it to hot and ruin your ball
my only point
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risk is you make it to hot and ruin your ball
my only point
Right, that is the whole point of my OP, what is considered the "safe temp." I want to replicate the Jayhawk system without the ultra-sonic portion which I'm not sure is anything other than marketing.
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According to the Brunswick Ball Life Study, they say not to go over 150°.
http://innovativebowling.com/assets/images/BrunswickRevivorResearchDocument.pdf (http://innovativebowling.com/assets/images/BrunswickRevivorResearchDocument.pdf)
Different companies have different thresholds on temp.Usually running from 125° to 140°
Like In the video for the Innovative Revivor they set it at 140°.
Or the Jayhawk Detox they say it operates at only 115°.
(It also uses ultrasonic's in the cleaning which you can diy you just have to get a transducer off ebay there was a video showing how to do it. )
A popular DIY oil extractor is the dehydrator one, it's cheap simple to build.
I made one years ago still use it, it gets the ball about a 115°
Note:
If you use a strong cleaning regimen before hand, you can almost eliminate the need to de-oil or at the very least increase it's effectiveness.
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Used a food dehydrator to make mine and have zero issues.
The document from Brunswick that use to be available on innovatives website recommend not exceeding 150 degrees. It also stated most dont warranty for exceeding 125 degrees.
I'd stick with 100-125. I Typically do 125, and it has no issue getting oil out of the ball.
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Thanks for the responses guys, I have some Google-fu to perform.
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I have a NuBall extractor and use 135*, does the job without damaging the ball. -- JohnP
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I looked these immersion heaters up, I'm sure they will do the job but they're pretty expensive. The NuBall at full price is $189.95, but they offer significant discounts to seniors (over 60), youth, coaches, pro shops, etc. Or, as has already been mentioned, you can make one from a food desiccator. There are instructions here and at other bowling websites. -- JohnP
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As far as I have learned, the main danger from heat (besides cracking the ball) is that at around 150 degrees Fahrenheit, the plasticizer, which, I believe, is the catalyst that makes urethane into resin, starts to come out of the ball.
Different manufacturers specify different heat limits. You can check on the ball box and see this for Brunswick and Storm as part of the warranty. I believe Storm specifies 125 degrees, and Brunswick specifies 140 degrees. (That could be reversed; check a box.)
I have a NuBall oven and it has a range of 105 to 155. I know the manufacturer/designer and he and his team check every oven to insure that the temp specified on the device is within 2 - 3 degrees.
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140 degrees is the max temperature. What you have sounds like a great idea.
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I have a NuBall extractor and use 135*, does the job without damaging the ball. -- JohnP
The NuBall unit's temperature gauge goes up to 145 degrees but shows 135 degrees in red letters.
Motiv's standard warranty suggests not exposing their bowling balls to a temperature beyond 125 degrees which may be a bit conservative. I use 125 degrees for the Sting, but like John, I go to 135 degrees for non-Motiv balls without any damage.
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I looked these immersion heaters up, I'm sure they will do the job but they're pretty expensive. The NuBall at full price is $189.95, but they offer significant discounts to seniors (over 60), youth, coaches, pro shops, etc. Or, as has already been mentioned, you can make one from a food desiccator. There are instructions here and at other bowling websites. -- JohnP
I got one for Christmas as a "he's a middle aged man with every toy under the sun, let's see if he likes this" gift from my sister in law. It's actually pretty cool to cook with, all the food is sealed in food saver bags so it never contacts the water or the immersion cooker.
That being said I found a used dehydrator on Craigslist for 20 bucks so I may end up going that route if I don't like the results from this.
Thanks again for all the feedback so far, I'm going to do an old Breeze that has about 1000 games on it later today.
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I have a NuBall extractor and use 135*, does the job without damaging the ball. -- JohnP
I use a DIY copy of the NuBall extractor that I made (my cost about $75) with a digital thermometer inserted to constantly monitor the temperature. I typically de-oil at 130* and it works extremely well. Have never had any problems running at that temperature.
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I shower my balls in hot water. just hot water.
Though if they're freezing cold, I'll try and shower them in the temp I use for my showers, then turn off the cold water after I've warmed the ball up for a bit first.
My dad has extracted oil that way with all his balls, and none of them have cracked because of that.
His oldest ball is like 5 years old now or more.
Reason why showering them haven't cracked them is probably because it's not hot enough to crack them.
Tore Torgersen told me that the Jackal is a ball he has never seen crack. Not because of re-drilling, any amount of bowling with it, and oil extraction.
Hope my new balls will handle the heat too. We don't have them under hot water for more than maybe 1-2 mins.
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Interesting idea. From what I can see, most units circulate the water through an insulated heating element to control the heat. You don't see an issue with the oil in the water possible ruining the unit?
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Interesting idea. From what I can see, most units circulate the water through an insulated heating element to control the heat. You don't see an issue with the oil in the water possible ruining the unit?
Haha yeah I thought about that last night as I had it running in soapy water to clean it up. Thanks to the good input from this thread I will probably make a DIY extractor out of a dehydrator. I ran an old Breeze at 130 for an hour with no issue, it pulled out a fair amount of oil out of the ball but I wonder how long the immersion cooker will last in dual purpose use.
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Here is an example of how well my DIY NuBall clone works at 130*. This is an old Robo Rule I did this weekend for a friend. Hit it with 360 grit to open the pores (1st pic), and 2nd pic is about 10 minutes later.
(https://www.ballreviews.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi211.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb42%2Fduvallite%2FBowling%2520Related%2FRobo%2520Rule%2520-%2520before_zpsgefug6u7.jpg&hash=53368f01d73e656b9ea95207a8e34983b924f7dd)
(https://www.ballreviews.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi211.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb42%2Fduvallite%2FBowling%2520Related%2FRobo%2520Rule%2520-%2520after%2520_zps55mg1iwb.jpg&hash=4d9ba003d762981f21398db5b508c02806c94f1f)
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One thing you must never do is put the ball in the microwave. If you do such a stupid thing, you deserve to have your ball crack :P
It'll most likely look like a dirt area which is extreme dry :P
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depends on the manufacturer. 115 - 140 degrees.
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I take a couple pots of hot water brewed from my coffee maker and submerge the ball for about 10-15 minuets. I've done it many times and never had any problems.
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Contact the Manufacturer of the ball... They should tell you, "Yes, at xxx°" as everyone has a different rule, or just "no we don't recommend it"
Brunswick Loaded Revolver - 120° MAX according to Brunswick
Hammer Viral - Hammer Did not recommend, said only the vibrating water thing I have tried to put this ball in the oven at 120° and never, ever got any oil out of it, I just sand/polish it now.
120°F feels Warm for most people and is not too hot to touch. If My cooker reads 120°F my laser non contact thermometer reads 120°F so I am sure it is right, and I have never needed gloves to remove the ball... When heating other things Usually 135°-140°F is when things become a little to hot to handle, it will depend on you and what you are used to. And it will depend on what is being heated, the thermal transfer of a resin, plastic, or urethane to your hand is not as severe as the heat transfer of a piece of metal, so not everything feels the same at the same temperature.
If you over cook them with too much heat, you can do a few things, 1) you can age the plasticizers in the cover, 2) you can break the bond between the inside and outside materials of the ball. 3) I have read you can melt the inside of the ball. 4) You can crack it.
Normally, in my experience cracking occurs if you heat it up too fast and unevenly. Not saying that is the rule, just what I understand.
Hope this helps