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Author Topic: Understanding Pin Settings  (Read 1050 times)

Cobb

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Understanding Pin Settings
« on: October 12, 2008, 05:31:41 PM »
Alright well i'm new to the technical stuff about bowling and i have a picture of my Columbia Wrath SF and i was wondering if someone could tell me my pin setting maybe?? Then i might be able to figure it out.

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J_Mac

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2008, 01:58:38 AM »
Without knowing the location of your positive axis point (commonly called the PAP), that picture doesn't really help anyone.

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MI 2 AZ

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2008, 02:57:53 AM »
How to find your PAP - info can be found HERE.

You can also see a video at this LINK.

Once you know your PAP, this next Webpage will give you more info as to the Pin location and mass bias effects.


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fluff33

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2008, 07:18:19 AM »
Why not ask the pro shop operator who drilled it?  Did you ask him for a specific reaction?
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Goof1073

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2008, 11:59:32 AM »
I've got to agree with the others...hard to tell without a PAP.  However if you assume a pretty standard axis point I bet that to be ~5" pin distance.  With that far above the fingers it's probably a 2 - 1.5" pin buffer from your Positive Axis Line.  What's that all mean?  Long and strong.

The thing that I noticed first was the lack of a weight hole...or is there one that we just can't see in the picture?  If there isn't one that I wonder how that ball doesn't have one with the CG that far off the midline...unless it had a pretty low top weight to start with.
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-Chris: DJ's Pro Shop : Auburn, MA
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REvans284

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2008, 08:17:45 PM »
quote:
I've got to agree with the others...hard to tell without a PAP.  However if you assume a pretty standard axis point I bet that to be ~5" pin distance.  With that far above the fingers it's probably a 2 - 1.5" pin buffer from your Positive Axis Line.  What's that all mean?  Long and strong.

The thing that I noticed first was the lack of a weight hole...or is there one that we just can't see in the picture?  If there isn't one that I wonder how that ball doesn't have one with the CG that far off the midline...unless it had a pretty low top weight to start with.
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-Chris: DJ's Pro Shop : Auburn, MA


I don't have big fingers, so alot of weight isn't drilled out of the ball to begin with on my equipment. So my experience may vary due to that when compared to others..  But I have grown to prefer similar drillings to that for my particular game.  

I'm assuming if you have an average hand size (around 4 1/2 span) and you get a ball with between 2-2.5oz. of top weight (even in some cases 3oz.) That layout won't necessarily require a balance hole to bring it back legal.  

I have 5 balls with similar layouts to that (1 identical, 4 pin down - 2 were replacements for the preceeding balls that died on me) and only 2 of them have a balance hole, but the ones that don't have enough positive side weight if I want to tweak the ball's reaction, I can add one without a problem.

I guess it solely depends on the handsize/starting top weight.   But for me, that drilling gives me a cleaner/longer look through the front part of the lane and a sharper break point than the pin down version.  When the lanes are more touchy and unforgiving, I prefer the pin down.

Later,

REvans284

Edited on 10/13/2008 8:26 PM
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Goof1073

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2008, 06:54:46 AM »
quote:
I'm assuming if you have an average hand size (around 4 1/2 span) and you get a ball with between 2-2.5oz. of top weight (even in some cases 3oz.) That layout won't necessarily require a balance hole to bring it back legal.


REvans284, what exactly does hand size have to do with side weight?  All I was saying is that the CG is shifted off of the centerline ~1.5"+ which in general would require some kind of weight hole, unless the top weight was lower.  You emphasized the same point that I made at the end of my original post.  Honestly, it was just an observation...not trying to say the ball isn't legal.

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-Chris: DJ's Pro Shop : Auburn, MA
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fluff33

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2008, 07:17:52 AM »
I also would like to know what hand size has to do with this. Maybe I have been missing something for the last 30 years.
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REvans284

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Re: Understanding Pin Settings
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2008, 04:35:56 PM »
quote:
REvans284, what exactly does hand size have to do with side weight?    


I was half asleep when I wrote that jargon and now I feel like Sarah Palin blabbering on nonsense .

It doesn't matter what your hand size is, the top weight would work like that with anyone.  To reduce the need for a balance hole you generally need less starting top weight so when you kick the CG out, it keeps the side weight within the limits... Then since you have some built in positive side weight, if you need a balance hole later to tweak the reaction you have some room to play.

The description of the reaction givin is pretty accurate.  The ball is strong off the spot, and the stuff I am using this on is usually a dull solid or particle so it reads the midlane fairly quick and in the process is burning off some energy and tames the ending reaction down to a hard arc off the spot (strong overall but smooth).  

If you aren't careful about watching your reaction though you can land in 10 pin city with a ball layed out this way, but overall its controllable and good to use when you need to be consistant on tighter patterns.  

PS.  I like it on midline equipment when its not on a particle.  The resins of today are getting too strong and it can be pretty angular on some of the stronger core/cover balls out there.  I'd hate to see how strong it is on a pearl especially on something short.  It'd be in the gutter for me on the left side about 2 feet after the exit of the pattern .

Later,

REvans284

Edited on 10/14/2008 4:41 PM
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