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Author Topic: light bulb cores  (Read 12334 times)

xrayjay

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light bulb cores
« on: June 10, 2014, 12:34:34 PM »
I was looking at all the balls I've liked and have owned, and the ones I really liked for THS were balls with similar cores. The "light bulb" type, or close to it, cores.

Cuda/C 2000
Track Slash
Piranha???
Freeze solid
Fired Up
Natural
Heat
Breeze pearl
Black Pearl Blue Ocean

Besides the ball's shell and the lane surfaces, can a bowler be matched up to a core type? I never heard of this, but it made me wonder if this is possible.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2014, 01:17:25 PM by xrayjay »
Does a round object have sides? I say yes, pizza has triangles..

aka addik since 2003

 

kidlost2000

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2014, 12:49:33 PM »
Even with similar bulb shapes the density can give very different RG and Diffs from one to the next.
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

Impending Doom

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2014, 01:01:24 PM »
Agreed. See AMF Cobra SE and King Cobra. Same shape, KC is much lower RG and almost double the diff.

3835

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2014, 01:05:40 PM »
Have you ever tried a Teal Rhino or a Rhino T2? How about a Beast or any mutation of a Beast? Critical Mass (original)? Ultimate Weapon (black), Norm Duke Hammer? Avalanche series (newer from Brunswick as in 4-5 years ago)? All lightbulb cores and ALL very good, even rolling balls.

My belief is that the cores roll so good that you can manipulate them into covering different conditions and you only get the controlled reaction and not some hockey stick reaction some of the newer cores/covers will give.

I still have a Teal Rhino packed away for good reasons.

3835

avabob

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2014, 01:52:42 PM »
Yea, teal rhino immediately came to my mind too.  Light bulb core has always been a nice core.  I think it may be even better today because of the extremely aggressive shells that are being put on the premium balls.  Core shell matchup is too strong on most balls for anything but house shots where anything will work. 

Low RG symmetrical cores ( bulb or otherwise ) matched up with pearl or less aggressive solid shells works better for almost everyone on tourney patterns. 

3835

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2014, 01:56:28 PM »
Avabob,

Agree. I would like to see a strong Storm cover or Big B cover on the lightbulb core. Heck, call it the Teal Rhino 2014 or something, but make it have a premium out today cover, not something that is a retread from a few years ago.

As for the core being enough....I agree. I am currently using a Forest Green Quantum (now 20 years old) at my bowling alley for THS and it kills still today. Even rolling, no herky jerky motion, etc.

3835

Impending Doom

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2014, 02:05:36 PM »
I bowled on Sydney this past weekend, and my King Cobra was sweet. Too bad I threw it like a jackass lol.

avabob

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #7 on: June 10, 2014, 02:21:04 PM »
They are trying to overcome the burnout factor with cores that enhance continuation.  Unfortunately the laws of physics related to friction cause this to have only minimal impact.  Note all the adds that talk about continuation from the break point.  They hype this attribute because of the burnout factor we all encounter even though none of the modern cores can significantly overcome the friction and related burn in the dry boards.

Jorge300

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #8 on: June 10, 2014, 02:54:12 PM »
xrayjay,
     I don't think it's you matching up to a specific core, it's more that a symmetircal core is more forgiving and easier to drill. Think back to the old days....all drillers worried about label drill, leverage, etc.. No one measured anyone's PAP. It didn't matter. The balls were more forgiving to drilling mistakes (not that any driller ever makes a mistake...to all the pro shop owners on here :) ) and more forgiving to operator error. They also didn't make very dynamic moves on the lanes either. I think that is what you are seeing. I know my highest series came throwing the Hy-Road, a symmetrical lightbulb core. In today's world of dynamic cores, you have to have the PAP perfect and the drill matched up to a player's style perfectly, are you wind up with a $200 paperweight. I know most of us do it, but even coping the PAP from an old ball or an old drillsheet, could mean a new ball is drilled incorrectly. If you don't throw the ball the exact same way anymore, due to age, injury, coaching, etc......your PAP may be different now and even a small change can effect how a ball will roll. You almost have to take a PAP measurement everytime you drill a ball. A bit dramtic, probably....but JMHO.
Jorge300

Impending Doom

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #9 on: June 10, 2014, 03:29:40 PM »
Hyroad isn't a lightbulb core.

kidlost2000

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #10 on: June 10, 2014, 06:17:51 PM »
Many balls have had light bulb and mushroom esq cores that were great bowling balls. Many newer cores haven't gone that far away from the idea. Many are just a bit more elongated.

When you really look at core and the general shape they are still bulbs and modified bulbs to get the best reaction with todays covers.
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

Eddie M

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #11 on: June 10, 2014, 07:57:29 PM »
Some of my all time favorite balls have variations of light bulb cores.  Lightning Flash, Super Beast, Hybrid Tropical Breeze, Rhino Pro LE, Gold Rhino Pro
Right Handed
Motiv Venom Shock, Motiv Freestyle, Storm Mix
avg: 221 - hg: 300 x7

Left Handed
Storm Street Fight, Storm Mix
avg: 180

xrayjay

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #12 on: June 10, 2014, 11:23:27 PM »
xrayjay,
     I don't think it's you matching up to a specific core, it's more that a symmetircal core is more forgiving and easier to drill. Think back to the old days....all drillers worried about label drill, leverage, etc.. No one measured anyone's PAP. It didn't matter. The balls were more forgiving to drilling mistakes (not that any driller ever makes a mistake...to all the pro shop owners on here :) ) and more forgiving to operator error. They also didn't make very dynamic moves on the lanes either. I think that is what you are seeing. I know my highest series came throwing the Hy-Road, a symmetrical lightbulb core. In today's world of dynamic cores, you have to have the PAP perfect and the drill matched up to a player's style perfectly, are you wind up with a $200 paperweight. I know most of us do it, but even coping the PAP from an old ball or an old drillsheet, could mean a new ball is drilled incorrectly. If you don't throw the ball the exact same way anymore, due to age, injury, coaching, etc......your PAP may be different now and even a small change can effect how a ball will roll. You almost have to take a PAP measurement everytime you drill a ball. A bit dramtic, probably....but JMHO.

I do remember drillers just punched up label drill and "stack leverage" drills for most everyone. Having pin over bridge seemed exotic back then, well for the house/shop I hung out at.
Does a round object have sides? I say yes, pizza has triangles..

aka addik since 2003

dougb

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Re: light bulb cores
« Reply #13 on: June 10, 2014, 11:43:21 PM »
I still throw a Teal Rhino Pro, Gold Rhino Pro, and Norm Duke Signature Hammer.  I do very well with a lightbulb and weaker cover.  Smooth, predictable arc and great carry.

I have the same experience with the mushroom core.  Love my Raven Quantum!