Jim King's Spare Shooting Series from Bowling this Month.
(There were pictures in the articles which I can't post here.)
If you post this elsewhere, please give credit to Jim King, and BTM.
Thanks.
#1
When I started bowling as a youngster, my father and any other coaches I had preached that the major difference between a good local bowler and the “Great Bowlers Of Yesterday†was that the great ones hardly ever missed any spares. I think that, to a large extent, it is still a true statement. I believe that most of the “Great Bowlers Of Today†are excellent spare shooters and over the next few issues, I will attempt to show you how you can improve your spare game.
First of all, lets define who we are talking about. When I say “Great Bowlers Of Todayâ€, I am not talking about the local hotshot who averages 200-225 on a walled up condition, has baztardized his game to conform to one house, and still misses 10-20% of his corner pins. I am referring to most of the players on the pro tours as well as the many great professional amateurs who perform in the megabuck events and smaller tours around the country. I have had the pleasure of coaching, bowling alongside of and learning from these players over the last several years. From these players and their approach to the sport in general and spare shooting in particular, I have not only improved my own spare game but have hopefully gotten some insight into what makes them successful at making spares.
SAVE THOSE DOUBLES
Most bowlers when faced with a baby split or a washout automatically go on the defensive. They come back shaking their head, wondering what when wrong or how that shot could have come from them. Many times they get up to shoot the spare, still trying to figure out what happened on the first ball or how and if they are going to move for the next frame. The “Great Bowlers Of Today†or GBOTs as I will refer to them, view a washout as an opportunity to save a double. It takes two shots to get a double, but by converting a washout or a baby split or any other tough spare, they can achieve the equivalent with only one shot. GBOTs go on the offense when faced with a tough spare. They do not come back shaking their head because they realize the importance of the next shot. They are not thinking about the next frame yet, because this frame is not over. They are as confident when they attempt the spare as if they were on a six-bagger, because they have practiced this shot countless times and are sure they will make it. GBOTs have this attitude because they fully realize the importance of spare shooting and how crucial spare making has been to their previous successes. Many, many, far too many local hotshots with 210+ league averages have the attitude that spares are for sissies and that washouts and baby splits are pesky little creatures that will go away if you just ignore them. Of course they have the same attitude about buckets, 3-6-9-10s, 2-8s, 10 pins and most any other spare you can think of. They are into striking, not sparing. The success of their day is determined by the percentage of strikes they achieved in that league or that tournament. GBOTs are into bowling well. The success of their day is determined by how well they threw the ball and whether or not they got the most out of their game that day. That is often measured by how well they spared. The local hotshots have the view that they need strings of strikes to cover up those open frames. GBOTs have the view that they have to stay clean so that their strings of strikes mean something. Of course GBOTs usually end up on or near the top of the prize list, ahead of many who had more strikes, simply because they saved more doubles.
TO KILL IT OR NOT TO KILL IT
Until the late 70s, GBOTs as a rule threw the same ball for spares with a similar release and were very successful. The rest of us did too, though not as successfully. Then along came plastic lane surfaces and plastic balls. Striking got easier and for the same reason (friction), spares got harder. Now, that 10 pin conversion required a different strategy and a different release than before. We all struggled from time to time with spares, trying to readjust our spare games to handle the new equipment. Then Mark Roth showed us how to do it. Mark created a lot of controversy with his super-cranking style. Most coaches rooted against him because they were afraid every youth bowler in America would end up throwing it like Mark. Many of them did, but the most revolutionary part of his game, and I think the most lasting was his spare making. He threw it straight. Nobody ever did that before. At least no one with the national exposure that he had. He was outstriking most of the other pros, but he was outsparing them as well. If kids had copied his spare game instead of his strike ball, they would have been better off.
Today, with much more friction to deal with, a kill shot is even more of a necessity. At least for right-handers, it is. However, I think to be a GBOT, lefties should learn to kill it as well, but as a rule, they haven’t been forced to learn a kill shot like the righties have. This is not a slap against southpaws, they just haven’t had to traverse a bone-dry track area shooting a 7 pin enough times to force them to rethink their strategy. Righties see this situation often. Many righthanders though, have only halfway committed to a “kill shotâ€. I see right-handed bowlers all over the country shooting 10 pins with a plastic ball and using the same hook release as their strike ball. At their home house in league, this probably works fairly well because there is probably enough oil piled up in the middle that Rudy Revs couldn’t hook an LT48 across that puddle. However, when they get out of their home house and into unfamiliar territory and unfamiliar conditions, they often get a rude awakening. Now sometimes, there isn’t a big puddle in the middle and that plastic ball with the hook release breaks 6-10 boards instead of 1 or 2. They now have no room for error using their prior alignment and miss 25-70% of their 10 pins. Sometimes they run into a reverse block and can’t get it over to the 10 pin and if they get it a little wide, it hits the outside oil and slides into the gutter. Now you see some serious head shaking. Most GBOTs never have this problem. This dilemma never enters into their mind. Why? Because they have developed kill shots that will go straight on any condition. I repeat, any condition. If you can throw it straight on toasted lanes, you can throw it straight anywhere. GBOTs don’t have to take the lane conditions into account when shooting a 10 pin. Imagine the freedom. Imagine your sigh of relief if that load could be lifted off your shoulders.
Using your normal release on a spare shot with a plastic or rubber ball is still better than trying to convert them with the reactive bombs we throw for strikes today. Your sparemaking percentage will improve some. But if you are still doing this and are at the stage in your development where you haven’t improved in a while and are wondering how to get over the hump, think about really making a commitment to improve this part of your game. At some point in their development as a bowler, GBOTs made that commitment to learn how to deliver the ball with little or no hook. It is not an easy task. But really, you don’t have to learn how to throw it straight as much as unlearn or forget how to hook it. When you first started bowling, you probably threw it pretty straight, with a simple, clean release. If you are currently hooking the ball at all on your “kill shotsâ€, you can still develop this release. But whether you develop a straight up, end over end rolling kill shot, put one finger in the ball, or use some other method to make it go straight, the most important thing is to make that commitment. You can’t just try it for a while to see if you like it. You can’t just do it half way. You must decide in your mind if you want to be a great spare shooter. Once you make that commitment, you will find a way to kill it. You will want to practice it. You will go on the offense when faced with a tough spare and you will beat bowlers who have more strike power.
In the coming issues, we will take a closer look at how to throw it straight, how to move for different spares, and just how accurate you really have to be to be a great spare shooter.
#2
How to throw it straight.
Okay. You have decided that you want to be a GBOT (Great Bowler Of Today). You have made the commitment to learn a release that will make the ball go straight on any condition. You go to the lanes to practice and your “kill shot†still hooks. What happened? Why won’t it go straight? You ask “What can I do to kill it more?†Lets back up and analyze the entire situation.
Of course, the easiest way to learn how to throw it straight is to seek a professional instructor. An objective pair of eyes is very helpful. But I am writing this under the assumption that you will try to learn this on your own. So, let us proceed.
Are you going to try and use your strike ball? If so, the release must result in a purely end over end roll. With a reactive or particle ball on a dry lane, there is no room for error in the hand action. Any side roll or spin at all will result in an enormous amount of hook on a dry lane. I have seen a few GBOTS who can do this, but most use a spare ball of plastic or rubber. With a plastic or rubber ball, there is room for error in the hand action.
Now, as to how to affect that end over end release and make it go straight. First, you must untrain your hand and unlearn or reteach yourself how not to hook it. The easiest way to learn this is to put your spare ball and your other equipment in the bag and proceed to the nearest rack of house balls. Try to find one that is the same weight and same size or slightly larger fingers and thumbhole. Don’t worry about the span if you can’t find one that is close. Plastic or rubber will do. Now go to the foul line and make yourself comfortable. You will be there for a while. Remember, we are unlearning our hook release, so we don’t want to do anything associated with that release….like a stance, pushaway, approach or power step. We want to isolate your hand action as much as possible and this is the easiest way to do that. Just take one step and deliver the ball onto the lane and do not, I repeat, do not lift, turn, spin, horse, crank, yank or torque that house ball. Just get it off your hand safely, just like you did the first several times you went bowling. You will feel stupid and embarrassed standing at the line doing this. Don’t worry. It will be worth it if you can become a GBOT. Practice rolling this hunk of rubber or plastic, which might be older than you are, with a palm-forward, thumb out release. If you can make it roll over the thumb and finger holes, then you are doing it right. Those bumping sounds as it goes down the lane are positive reinforcement. Any track parallel and near the grip will work. One mental swing thought that might help you is to lead with your little finger. We aren’t using targets yet, but visualize your little finger as a pointer toward your target…when you get one. Try to do this before the lanes have been dressed or after a late league when the lanes are at their driest. If the oil is fresh, then throw it in the driest part of the lane, except to check where the ball is tracking by occasionally rolling it in the oil. Remember, we are trying to achieve a shot that will go straight, even on dry lanes. If you have picked up a ball with no distinguishing characteristics, place a piece of white tape just above the finger holes. This will help you monitor the rotation as it rolls down the lane. When you have successfully rolled it end over end 25-30 times, then try it with your spare ball…from the foul line. If you still are having trouble getting a clean release, you might now be able to tell how to tweak your grip layout in order to get a cleaner exit. Ask your ball driller to help you here. If you regress into somewhat of a hook release, go back to the house ball and train some more. Important note: Do not settle for a grip that inhibits an end over end release just because you don’t want to take the time and trouble to get the ball plugged and redrilled. If you do, then you have not made that commitment we talked about.
Lets talk about drilling. There are two schools of thought on how to have this spare ball drilled. The conventional theory is to drill it just like your strike ball so that the feel is the same. If you are throwing your normal release at spares, this theory sounds logical. But we are not using our normal release, so an alternate drilling might be necessary. If your finger and thumbs pitches are such that you can release it end over end, then there’s no need to redrill. But many bowlers have pitches on their thumb to encourage side roll, so end over end is practically impossible. My own thumb pitch would not allow a clean end over end release, so I searched for an alternative I decided to try more reverse(1/2†instead of 1/4â€) and less away(0 instead of 1/8â€). This worked. It allowed me to have a cleaner release. I drop a few, but those dropped shots still go straight and get the job done. Straight is straight, remember? I also now use a 7/16†bridge to give me a wider leverage base. This makes it easier for me to stay behind it and come straight up the back without any side roll. The span on one of your fingers may need to be adjusted so that you get equal pressure with both fingers. I use more away (1/2†instead of 1/8†on the fingers)…again allowing for a cleaner exit. This grip allowed me to roll the ball straight and I began to get curious about GBOTS spare ball grips. I began to ask them when bowling next to them or crossing with them in tournaments and I was surprised by the fact that very few used the exact same grip for their spare ball. . If you think about it, what is wrong with having a different grip for your spare shots? If you are using a different release, why is it so imperative to have the same feel? After a few years of experience “killing itâ€, I’ve come to the conclusion that the same grip as my strike ball would encourage the same release, which is what we are trying to “unlearnâ€. I would suggest to you that if the grip on your strike ball will not allow you to achieve an end over end roll that you try a different grip. Don’t be afraid to experiment. You might come up with another solution of your own.
Now, back to the lanes. So now you have successfully rolled a straight shot with your spare ball 25-30 times. Ok, lets try it with the approach. Again, just roll it in the driest part of the lane. We are not ready for targets yet. Lets try to get used to that same straight ball release with our old hook ball approach. If you are easily bored, this could be difficult. Just take heart that with every successful end over end delivery, you are one step closer toward untraining your hand action and one step closer to being a GBOT.
Don’t forget to take breaks periodically to avoid getting tired. Also, each time you come back from a break view it as an opportunity to test your progress and test your muscle memory. When you have successfully rolled it straight with your spare ball 25-30 consecutive times…STOP. Don’t bowl any more that day. You must rest up for combining your newfound hand action with looking at a target and actually making a spare. When you return to practice again, test your muscle memory first by seeing if you can roll at least ten end over end shots. If not, then go back to the foul line until you get it back. Once you are confident that you can execute this shot, try shooting a 10 pin. Use your old target if you played no hook before. If not, then you will have to find a new target. Hopefully, you will be doing this on dry lanes again. If not, be sure and use the tape on your spare ball so you can check the rotation. If there is oil in the middle, the lane may not point out a misdelivered shot like a dry lane would. Do not throw strike balls at all during this exercise. Try some 7 pin shots. You will definitely have to find a new target for this one. I recommend the 3rd arrow from the left for both lefthanders and right handers. This is the part of the lane where you can usually find some oil, even on a tournament shot that has broken down. You want to use this part of the lane in case you accidentally squeeze one under the pressure of live competition. It might cover up your mistake.
Now that you are comfortable with your newfound release, try intermingling it with your hook release. Throw a strike ball, then throw a 10 pin. Throw a strike ball, then throw a 7 pin. Throw two strike balls, then throw a 10 pin, etc. Don’t worry about what spares you might actually be leaving, you are just testing your muscle memory. You might be striking on every full rack. Just mix in the kill shots so that your hand and body can get used to the changes. Try to follow up this practice with another using basically the same drills. This time, however, try to add adjustments for other spares such as the 4, 4-7 (no, they are not the same), 6, 6-10 (they are not the same either), 2-4-5 (for righties), 2-4-7 (for lefties), and washouts. Use full racks. This will help your concentration.
Now we are ready to start using targets for individual spares. I have a different methodology than many instructors. Most will teach you to use the same target and move your feet to adjust from say, a 6 pin and a 10 pin. I think this is fine on the left side spares for righthanders (though for a different reason) but for right side spares, I move my target and use the same starting point. I think other systems work pretty well, but let me explain my reasoning for having a different system for spares on opposite sides of the lane. When shooting right side spares, I want to stay as far left as possible because of the extra angle which helps keep my “chop†percentage low and to stay in the heavy oil as much as possible. When shooting spares on the left side, I want foremost to stay in the oily part of the lane, to cover up accidental lift or turn, and secondly to improve the angle. I could get farther left (6th arrow) for say a 2-4-5 but then I would be, many times, in the left-handed track area. Then I would have the same problem as shooting a 3-6 down the second arrow from the right (not enough oil to cover up a missed release). So, for right-side spares, I stand in the same place and move my target. I use the 10 pin for a baseline shot. This changes from house to house because I want to stand as far left and look as far left as I can. The width of the ball return determines where exactly that is. My target is usually between the 21st board and the 25th at the joints or splices. Once I determine my ten pin starting spot and target, for a 6-10, I move my target one board left. For a 6, 2 boards left, for a 3-10, 2 1/2 boards left, and 3-6-10, 3 boards. But for left-side spares, I use the same target (third arrow from the left) and move my feet. For example, I use the 7 pin as my base and move my feet 2 boards left and use the same target for a 4 pin. For a 4-7, 1 1/2 boards. For a 2-5 or a washout, I move my feet 6 boards left and still use the same target. You get the idea. I’m not proposing that you copy my system exactly, just try to use the same philosophy. You will work out(hopefully with a coach) the subtle nuances according to your ability to repeat approaches, how much you drift (or not), and the width of your body. All of these factors will help determine exactly where you will stand in order for a well executed “kill shot†to convert the spare you are attempting. Just try to remember that you want to finish as far across lane as is comfortable for right-side spares (for righthanders). This will give you the most deflection for baby splits and other corner clusters where chopping the front pin(s) off is a danger. This will increase your percentage of makes on slightly misthrown shots. I suggest lefties use the 3rd arrow from the left for right and left side spares, because that part of the lane retains oil the longest on most conditions. If you are a left handed and bowl where there isn’t enough oil in the middle of the lane, then shoot all left side spares from as far right as possible.
Even today, with all the professional coaching available, I still see relatively good bowlers using incorrect strategy to pick up spares and splits. I see many bowlers shoot baby splits down the outside part of the lane. You never see a GBOT rolling it down the edge to convert a baby split. You want to shoot 2-4-5s and 2-5s(for righties) from as far left as comfortable (while staying in heavy oil) for the same reason. Less angle means less chops. Just think about it this way. If you are a righthander and someone bet you that you could not chop a 3-6, how would you play the shot in order to maximize your chances to successfully chop off the 3 pin. You would probably try it from the right side of the lane with a lot of hook. So if you were to bet that you could convert it, wouldn’t the opposite strategy be the wisest course.
Before we go, let me impart the same advice I give to every student I work with. At least every six weeks, preferably once a month, go to the lanes and bowl 5 games of nothing but spare shots. Shoot 7s, 10s, 3-6-10s and all of your most common leaves. Make a game of it. Play lowball with a friend. Make it fun. Do not throw your strike ball. By devoting this time and effort to practicing spares, you not only get some needed practice but you will be building up and reinforcing the importance of spare shooting in your own mind. After a few sessions, you will start to look forward to it. When other bowlers stroll in and see what you are doing and scoff, you will have a warm glow of inner confidence in knowing that you are taking the next step toward becoming a GBOT.
Next time we will show you just how accurate you have to be to be a great spare shooter and at what spares you should still throw a hook.
#3
Just How Hard Is It?
All of this talk about the Great Bowlers of Today (GBOTS) and those of yesterday might sound a little intimidating to a bowler who is serious about their game and thinking of making a switch to throwing it straight. I have heard people exclaim that it is just too hard to be that accurate. Or, they just don’t have time to practice enough to become that precise.
I understand your present dilemma, if you have one. Hooking the ball at a spare just seems to be a security blanket for some bowlers, albeit a mostly false one. The first part of this article will be to hopefully illustrate exactly how accurate you have to be to throw it straight and still make that single pin. Later, we will talk about which spares at which to hook it.
Let’s use a 6-pin leave and a 10-pin leave as examples to illustrate the margin of error you have when attempting those particular spares. Some bowlers, when going through their pre-shot routine for a single pin are so intimidated that they feel they are rolling a BB at a matchstick. Well, you do not have to possess telescopic vision. You do not have to have space age precision. You do not even have to have a marksmanship merit badge from the Boy Scouts. Believe it or not, you have a rather large margin of error when shooting a single pin to still be successful. For any single pin other than a 7 or 10, you have over 13 inches at the pindeck to still knock it down. I don’t mean from the outside edge to outside edge, but from where the center of the ball sits when you graze a single pin on the right to where the center of the ball sits when you graze it on the left. (See illustration 1) In relation to where the center of the ball is positioned, you have the width of the pin plus half the width of the ball on each side of the pin. Over 13 inches!
Illustration 1 (Missing)
When shooting a 7 or 10, you still have over 11 inches. (See illustration 2) You have half the width of the ball on the inside, the width of the pin, and to the edge of the lane on the outside.
Illustration 2 (Missing)
Now, I know it is impossible to visualize this when standing on the approach, preparing to shoot a 10-pin. So, in photos 3 & 4, we have placed poster boards with a gap in between which illustrates just how much room you do have…from outside to outside. If you can fit your ball in the gap, you will make the spare. Photo 3 shows two balls and a 6-pin to hopefully help you realize the actual size of your target area.(Photos 3 & 4 here) Photo 4 shows the same target without the balls. So, give yourself a break. Don’t be so hard on yourself when contemplating that next single pin. Maybe it will ease the pressure, when shooting that next 6-pin, if you can visualize throwing your ball through this gap instead of rolling a BB at that matchstick. With repeated practice and repeated successes, you will eventually gain so much confidence that you could hit that matchstick with that BB. You will feel like and odds-on favorite when attempting a baby split and you will feel like it is an upset when you miss a 2-10.
Illustration 3 (Missing)
Illustration 4 (Missing)
You are probably thinking that while it may be true that you have over 13 inches of room at the pins, you don’t look at the pins. You target at the arrows or splices. Well, lets take a look at that. You still have more room for error than you think. Let’s assume that you use the middle arrow as your target for a 10-pin and that you release the ball at the foul line. Let’s assume also that you are lined up so that if you hit your mark perfectly, the center of your ball will hit the 10-pin exactly in the middle. The middle arrow is 17 feet from the foul line and the 10-pin is 62.5 feet. from the foul line. This is a ratio of 3.676 to 1. Therefore if you missed your target one board (one inch) to either side, this would mean the center of your ball would miss the center of the 10-pin by 3.676 inches (Still a spare). If you missed by 1.8 boards inside, then the center of your ball would miss the center of the 10- pin by 6.61 in. (Still a spare). You can miss 1.25 board outside and still convert the spare. This gives you over 3 boards worth of room at the 4th arrow.
It should be noted that you can and should make small realignments to compensate for a tendency to miss more to one side than the other. Also, if you release the ball beyond the foul line (most of us do) then that gives you a little more room for error…as long as you don’t lose any accuracy. With this in mind, you can give yourself even more room to make a mistake if you can move your target farther down the lane (splices for example) without sacrificing any accuracy. At the point where you start to lose accuracy, then you should bring your target back a little.
On any other single pin (other than the 7), you have even more of a mistake margin. You have more than 1.8 boards to either side of your mark. This gives you 4.6 ((1.8+1(your mark) +1.Cool) boards to hit (at the fourth arrow) when attempting a non-corner single pin.
If you are thoroughly confused, just remember the point that I’m trying to illustrate. You don’t have to be perfectly accurate to throw it straight at your spares. Of course, multiple pin spares usually require a little more accuracy than a single pin, but you still have bigger boundaries for success than is generally understood.
Now that I’ve hopefully convinced you to throw it straight at your spares, I would like to discuss which ones and under what circumstances you can or should hook it.
I should state up front that the only time you should hook it at any spare, is if you have a pretty good idea where the oil line and/or breakpoint is. If you are unsure for any reason, then it is better in the long run to use the straight shot, even on clusters with sleepers. For example, you are moving several pairs after each game in a tournament and after a move you leave a 2-5-8 in the first frame. You pulled your first shot and it skidded all the way and barely hit the headpin. Sound familiar? Now, because you did not make a good first shot, you can’t really adjust off of that shot to throw a hook at the spare. If you move too far right, you might chop it. You don’t know how far out the oil extends, so if you don’t move enough, it won’t get up to the 2-pin. In either case, you can’t deliver the next shot with confidence, so your chances will be much better by just lining up and throwing straight at it. You can deliver this shot with confidence because you have practiced it countless times, right?
Okay. Let’s get on to the spares.
These are spares that can be hooked at at least 50 percent of the time:
* 2-pin, 8-pin, 3-pin, 9-pin (It’s dangerous to try to go to school on these)
* 1-pin & 5-pin (You can go to school on these)
* 1-2-4 (for righties), 1-3-6 (for lefties)
These are spares you should almost always attempt with a hook (again, assuming you are confident where the breakpoint is):
* All multiple pin spares with a sleeper Ex: 2-8,3-6-9-10 or 2-4-5-8
* For righties (opposite for lefties) 1-2,1-2-8, 1-2-4-7-,1-2-7, 2-4, 2-4-7,5-8,3-5, 6-9,
5-7 split, 2-7 split, 3-9-10 split, 3-6-7-9-10 split
These are spares you should almost always attempt with a straight ball:
* (either hand)-7, 10, 4, 4-7, 6, 6-10, 6-9-10, 4-7-8
* (righties only)-2-4-5, 3-5-6,2 –5, 3-6-10& 3-6,
* (lefties only)-3-5 & 2-4, 2-4-7
* All washouts
* 2-7 split (lefties), 3-10 split (righties) ,
* 5-10 split (for righties), 5-7 split (for lefties)
The only other split I want to discuss here is what I think is the most overrated split: The 2-4-8-10 for right-handers. This split is very makeable if you play it with a hook from the far outside. Try to hit it thin on the left. Today’s balls will deflect more than enough for the 4 to hit the 8 and the 2 will take out the 10. I only see about 10% of bowlers try to make this spare. Unless you need 3 of them to win a match in the 10th frame, you should try to convert this one.
Another spare I feel deserves some special attention is the pro washout. The 1-2-4-6-10 for righties, the opposite for lefties. This is one of those “leaves of the 90s†that we hardly ever saw before reactive urethane. I often see very good bowlers trying to go between the 1 and the 3. I think this is a mistake. If you play it this way, you can make a perfect shot and still miss it. You have to get a lucky bounce off one wall or the other to convert it. If you play it to the left of headpin (righties), you can be off just a little and still make it. The percentages are just too great to play it any other way. I know some will disagree, but that’s the way I feel.
Finally, I hope you have found something in these three articles to help you be a better spare shooter. Please try to have the same attitude about spare shooting that GBOTs do. Remember to “save those doublesâ€. Try to make time to practice throwing it straight until you develop confidence in your ability to do so. Remember, you don’t have to be perfect. And lastly, remember it isn’t a test of your spare shooting versus mine or Walter Ray’s or anybody else’s. Your goal should be to be the best spare shooter and therefore the best bowler that you can be.
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Duke Harding
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There's a Big Difference between knowing the game of bowling . . .
and playing the game.
