Author Topic: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns? (Read 9490 times)

spencerwatts · « **on:** October 06, 2014, 08:52:44 AM »

I'm not asking about a specific brand of bowling ball. What I'm asking everyone is, based on their experience, what is the better kind of bowling ball to be used on the fresh for heavy oil/long patterns?

The reason why I'm asking is yesterday I bowled in an eliminator that laid out a 44-foot flat pattern, heavy oil volume. The organizers of the eliminator pride themselves on laying out a shot that places an emphasis on accuracy and converting spares. I have no problem with that.

I'm aware that oil distance is a factor because it affects how much backend you're working with. I'm also aware that on most flat patterns, you're not going to get any help from the lane. Miss right (or left) by a half-board, and it skates past the head pin. I get that. I also get it that oil carrydown is also a factor -- but you can say that for any shot.

I have bought pieces that I thought would be conducive to a heavy oil volume used on the fresh. But I'm now certain that they're not quite the pieces, so I've got a missing piece in my bag.

If I've observed correctly, it appears to me a true heavy oil ball (symmetric or asymmetric) is one with an out-of-the-box sanded finish; it's top layer of sanding is at a 3000 grit or coarser. The ones that are now piquing my attention have a sanded finish, 500/1500 to 500/2000.

What have I used so far? I use 16 pound equipment. These are the out-of-box specs for the pieces that I've used:

1st time: 2.571/.048 500/4000 (matte). Recommended medium to heavy. Stacked (strong), slightly pin down. I put a 2000 pad to it. Did not have a weight hole. Have since added a weight hole.

2nd time: 2.494/.048 500/royal compound/royal shine (polished). Recommended heavy, but most who have this ball say it's better on a medium to oily pattern. Pin up about slightly above ring finger, weight hole. I put a 360 pad to it.

3rd time: Same ball as second time, 2.494/.048 500/royal compound/royal shine. Same preparation. Used a second ball: 2.482/.054 500/4000 (pearl). Recommended medium to heavy. Stacked strong, slightly pin up, weight hole. I put a 500 pad to it.

Jorge300 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2014, 10:23:23 AM »

Spencer,
First thing is you want to find a ball with a lower RG. Looks like you started to do that with the last two listings. The second thing, I would look for a solid over a pearl. I think that is where that last ball had issues, I believe. After that, adjust the surface as needed. I would start at probably 2000 Abralon, then go down from there as you get through practice. I used to bowl in a PBAX League and on shots like Shark, I would go down to 1000 or 500 Abralon as I practiced that first week. The actual volume of oil put out will be the determining factor in surface prep, I think (along with lane topography).

Once you do that, I think the next thing is to make sure you have tamed your expectations. You have it right that you won't have much miss room left or right. But also tame expectations in regard to total hook you see. At 44 feet, your should be exiting the patter at about board 13. You are not going to see a lot of hook, and you may need to play straight up 12-13. Want you want to see is the ball transition into a roll downlane. If you see that, then you will score better, carry better and hopefully even generate a little bit of miss room ( on these patterns that may only be a 1 board but it's better then nothing).

You can look at your favorite ball companies and find something to fit this. I personally have an AMF300 The Darkness and a Radical Reax (original). The Reax is assymetrical and the Darkness is symetrical so I can get a little different look with each.

Good Times Good Times · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2014, 11:11:01 AM »

OP: Don't confuse LONG oil with HEAVY.

You can have a long oil pattern with THIN volume
You can have a long oil pattern with HEAVY volume

Same w/short oil, you can have short oil with heavy or thin volume.

These are DRASTICALLY different. Are you sure you have correctly identified what it is you are bowling on?

spencerwatts · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2014, 11:20:24 AM »

Jorge, I'm not expecting for my ball to cover a bunch of boards on heavy oil. But I want to put myself in the best position possible to compete and ultimately reap some return on my investment.

Yesterday, I started out around the 14th board, shooting up the boards. I moved to the 15-board, playing fairly straight up the boards. Then I made another move to the 17th board, allowing the ball to fade. I missed the cut by 38 pins, shooting marginally better pin total than in my previous attempt back in July. That day, I played between the 13 and 15 boards; I missed that cut by 18 pins.

I will say it's not like I'm shooting horribly. If you come away averaging 185 or better on it, you've done well and made the first cut. I've been shooting at a 175-180 clip, missing the cut by margins that reflect the numbers that I've already shared. The eventual winner usually comes away just barely averaging 200. The competition is usually rather stout, no matter how many people participate. Half of the field usually consists of bowlers who compete at the regional and even national level.

That said, I have made initial cuts in a couple of other scratch events this past summer that put out sport compliant/flatter patterns. I made a stepladder final using the same three pieces previously mentioned on a modified Kegel sport shot (42 feet, 1.9:1 ratio, and the oil volume was slightly less than on the 44-flat pattern). In another event, I made the initial cut but missed cashing by two spots bowling on a WTBA Athens shot (2.4:1, 40 feet). But I used different pieces on that one.

I feel as if I'm getting there, but I can't stress enough how you look around and you realize that something is missing.

spencerwatts · « **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2014, 11:29:37 AM »

Good Times, when I stated the question, I'm aware of some patterns that are long in distance and heavier in oil volume. There are some that are long in distance and light in volume.

But I promise you, this pattern's 44 feet, flat, with a heavy oil volume. First time these guys told me about this pattern, they said your ball will barely ripple. I thought they were jiving me, and that there must be a bunch of pussies who can't throw. Last year, I read where these same organizers put out a 48-foot shot, flat, also with heavy oil volume.

Jorge300 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2014, 02:28:31 PM »

Spencer,
I meant no disrespect with my post. Just making sure you had your expectations in order....sounds like you do. You'd be surprised how many people think they will see a banana shape even on a long and/or heavy pattern. Good luck in your tournaments going forward.

Dave81644 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 06, 2014, 05:27:01 PM »

earlier rolling, stronger pieces, drilled pin down, with surface to start
also, stronger higher pin symmetrics with surface is also an option
either way, good fundamentals will lead to better shotmaking.

Even with the correct ball, surface, layout, etc
it comes down to execution, which is way harder than it looks

how did you do on spare conversions?
For me, learning to throw all spares (except double wood) straight made a huge improvement in my scores.

Shot 607 last week on medium pattern during league, threw it pretty well,
missed 4 or 5 make-able spares.
instead of averaging 215+ i was only 202

just my $.02 worth

Author Topic: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns? (Read 9490 times)

spencerwatts

Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?

Jorge300

Re: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?

Good Times Good Times

Re: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?

spencerwatts

Re: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?

spencerwatts

Re: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?

Jorge300

Re: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?

Dave81644

Re: Better ball for heavy oil/long patterns?