To give you a better idea of these two balls since I have thrown them both, their ball reactions are very similar.  The only difference is the lane conditions.  The Sahara does on medium to light conditions what the Flip does on medium to heavy conditions.  I think their roll characteristics are very similar.  NOW...on the same condition, the Flip is going to be several feet sooner and more aggressive overall.  The Sahara will go a little longer and have a flippy type backend reaction.
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Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

mine dominates the short and or broken down shots. keep in mind when seeing the layout i am a lefty
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k25/balimaster/bowling/PICT0011-1.jpg
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"I don't like country music, but I don't mean to denigrate those who do. And for the people who like country music, denigrate means 'put down'" - Bob Newhart

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If guns kill people then spoons made Rosie O'Donnell fat!
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Some people are like Slinkies....
Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile
to your face... when you push one down a flight of stairs.

Sahara is truly a step down from the AF and the S&A, condition-wise. But it needs some (rest of) oil to work properly, or you need to apply a pin axis drilling like TWOHAND suggests.
It is IMHO basically a great piece for late games (when the Activator+ balls go for Brooklyn or burn out), short patterns or lighter conditions, even though it appears touchy to carrydown and long oil. Length in the drilling is IMHO a key factor for this ball, and then you can really have fun with it. Highly recommendable! But not for true dry conditions.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
Team "X" website & more about me: http://web.mac.com/timlinked/iWeb/X/Thomas.html
"The Future's So Bright I Gotta Wear Shades" - Pat MacDonald

If you keep the pin fairly low and hit it with a pretty generic pin to pap, you should have what you're looking for in the AF.  By lowering the pin, you can essentially force the ball to read the midlane, and cut down on the backend as a result.  If you go pin 3 + in above the mid it will most likely save a great deal of energy and release it all on the backend, for better or worse.  Try it in the 2" range, if its still too long try Brunswick's rough buff sanding process (220 + rb).  The closest I've gotten the AF to its box is 400 + rb.
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