BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Radical => Topic started by: 12XSECH on July 03, 2013, 10:06:37 AM
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When I first got the Reax I thought it was awesome. The house I used it at was med oil...I go to a different house that has a heavier volume of oil and the ball sucks. I tried different surfaces...1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000. I even tried with some polish and that made it worse. And yes, I clean my equipment right after every session. Its a medium oil ball at BEST. Every other ball I have out hooks the reax on heavier oil..the Nightmare, Hellraiser terror, storm manic, revenge.... The reax was drilled to be my "go to" ball in heavy and tournament condition patterns but so far its proven to be a medium oil ball....nothing more.
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and you are the reason why bowling has gone downhill. Either A) you are a troll or B) you think every ball should work the same in every house regardless of the lane prep, lane type (wood versus synthetic, etc) environment, etc. You said yourself the ball is a great medium oil ball at one house. Sounds like to me you should not take the ball to the house with heavy oil and when you go to the medium oil house, pack the REAX.
Pretty simple to me.
3835
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What did you put for a drill pattern on the ball?
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and you are the reason why bowling has gone downhill. Either A) you are a troll or B) you think every ball should work the same in every house regardless of the lane prep, lane type (wood versus synthetic, etc) environment, etc. You said yourself the ball is a great medium oil ball at one house. Sounds like to me you should not take the ball to the house with heavy oil and when you go to the medium oil house, pack the REAX.
Pretty simple to me.
3835
I believe he is saying the Reax is not the heavy oil ball it claims to be. You should read his comments before trolling him with your comments. I was looking to get this ball as my heavy oil ball but now I may rethink it based on how it reacted for 12XSECH. Anybody else experience the same with the Reax?
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Wow...to claim a ball is a dud because of the results from one house is an irrational statement. Further, if you base your opinion whether to purchase a ball or not when you have never seen him/her throw, regardless of the drill pattern he/she has on the ball, and regardless if your PAP and other drilling stats are completely different from him/her to you, you are going to take his opinion. Once again, this is what is wrong with bowling today.
I could sit here and tell you that I drilled up a Frantic and that ball was the smoothest ball I have ever seen. Forget that I put a RICO drill on the ball and forget because of my end of end reaction and little axis tilt that no ball backends for me, but you, with possible completely different stats expects the ball to react the same. Really?
3835
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3835, learn to read. Im the reason bowling is going downhill? I said its NOT the heavy oil ball its cracked up to be. All my other stuff out hooks it on the heavier lane condition. At the same time...the Reax is better on the MEDIUM oiled lanes. I dont know the specs of the drilling but...pin slight to right and up of ring finger, GC on center line, in line with pin and MB to right of thumb hole inline with CG. Im disappointed in the ball because the condition I got it for doesnt seem to be the condition for this ball. Im not a beginner, my house avg is 221, sport avg is 200, 4 three hundred games etc...
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also 3835...I tried it at several different house's, different kegel patterns etc..... MY findings are its best for medium oil. EVERY heavier oiled pattern the ball was not great. It sucked on the shark but was good on the cheetah....I bought this ball for patterns like the shark, like route 66 etc.....IT DOESNT WORK... It works on Stone street pattern, cheetah etc.... see the point? and like I said...Im not a beginner that just goes and buys a ball and expects it to work on every pattern.
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12XSECH,
The balls you have that out hook the REAX on heavy oil, where are the pins on those?
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To help you out, why dont you go back to your driller and find out your stats. PAP, Speed, Rev Rate, Axis Rotation and Tilt will give you the necessary input to get a well educated benchmark layout. Then measure out your Reax and compare what you need to what you have. That way if you're way off then you can plug and redrill the ball to your specific layout.
I think Maine Man has had the best idea to compare you Reax pin and MB location to your other equipment. Phil Cardinale(Newguy) is on here and Mo Pinel is on bowlingchat.net. My point is that you shouldnt give up on a ball especially after you just spent high performance money on a ball. I agree that some balls dont match up, but exhaust you options.
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Oh I can read. I read where you made a statement that a ball sucks because of the reaction it gave at ONE house when you praised the ball at another house.
Just because you have a 221 average does not make you a drilling specialist. Have you had any pro shop training? Attended any seminars, camps, etc? Just because someone can throw the rock does not mean you know anything about someone else and how a ball will react.
Last...without seeing ball reaction, how do we know the REAX is not burning up, giving off the impression of too weak but in reality it is simply too strong for the condition?
The point I am trying to make is just because one user had a bad experience does not make the ball a DUD (as you called it) for one condition and does not mean that someone else will not be able to use the ball on its intended condition or the condition that you could not.
There was a thread started the other day about the problem with bowling. Individuals reading posts like these who do not understand about drilling, etc will read the REAX is a DUD and will not understand.
3835When I first got the Reax I thought it was awesome. The house I used it at was med oil...I go to a different house that has a heavier volume of oil and the ball sucks. I tried different surfaces...1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000. I even tried with some polish and that made it worse. And yes, I clean my equipment right after every session. Its a medium oil ball at BEST. Every other ball I have out hooks the reax on heavier oil..the Nightmare, Hellraiser terror, storm manic, revenge.... The reax was drilled to be my "go to" ball in heavy and tournament condition patterns but so far its proven to be a medium oil ball....nothing more.
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Well I have had no shortage of use with mine on heavier oil. It is drilled similar to what you have listed. I know my specs and what I was looking for in reaction, I do not know yours. Just guessing the pin is in the 4.5" - 5" range likely from your pap.
That will have length but should recover down lane on most shots but on heavier oil it would have likely too much length and not make it through the three phases correctly. (skid,hook,roll) Likely you would want the pin closer to 3 to 3.5"s from your pap.
The reason some critique your initial comments is because your ignorant to a lot of things related to bowling and the problems your facing. Why this ball or that ball is or isn't doing what it should. That is common for a lot of people, and expected. It is common for anyone that works in a proshop to hear this from bowlers. Doesn't mean it is always tolerated.
If you do not decide to redrill it your other option for heavy oil/flat patterns is to try taking the surface down to 500 grit and see if that helps the ball. Not take it down to 500 and go throw it on your ths or anything else. Save it strictly to try on a heavier/flat oil pattern.
Since you have no video to show of your self bowling, no one here bowls with you and can only guess at what problems your facing. You do not know your bowling specs and neither do we.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqYM2ZkRsdw
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Mine is a3.5 inch pin. My rev rate is approx 350... speed 16-17 mph. The pin on my reax is in the same place as my nightmare. When I had the read at 1000....,the answer was "its burning up early"...at 4000 "to smooth of a surface".....and no I'm not a ball techy. I tell the driller what I'm looking for and he does what he does. This is the same driller that drilled 20 other balls for me so he knows what he is doing. The reax FOR ME is not as good as my other stuff on heavier patterns. If you have a problem with this like 3745....so be it.
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So you bought a ball with a 3.5" pin?
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Mine is a3.5 inch pin
The length of the pin out marked on the box is NOT the same as the distance of the pin from your PAP. Those are two different things, the number on the box doesn't dictate the reaction you're going to get. The distance of the pin from your axis in relation to how it's drilled is what determines ball reaction.
Also, if you want to use a ball on heavy oil, why are you taking the surface UP and then POLISHING it? Do you really expect the ball to handle heavy volumes with a shine on it? That's like putting racing tires on a minivan. The more oil you want the ball to handle, the lower the surface needs to be. You should have taken the surface down, i.e. sanded the ball, not polished it. Further, you need to ask your driller what your PAP is and how far the pin is from said PAP. It's possible the ball was drilled too weak to handle heavy oil.
I had a ball that was supposed to handle the flood, and it never handled anything over medium. Tried every surface known to man at the time, added and moved axis holes, different lines, dozens of houses. It just never handled anything more than medium. The only thing I never did was a plug and redrill, which I probably should have. Unfortunately some scumbag stole that ball, so I can't play around with it anymore :(
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http://www.ballreviews.com/radical/heres-the-question-t295782.0.html;msg2407531#msg2407531
After re-reading this you should consider talking with your proshop. Your all over the place when it comes to information and most of it isn't helpful. A video would be more beneficial.
For the "heavy oil" your facing you should try the original box finish of 1000 or going lower to 800 or 500.
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3.5 inch pin to CG....I never saw so much bull shit because I said a ball was a dud. Get over it already. Sorry Im not the pro shop guy and havnt been to the ball expo etc.... I bought a ball for heavier oil, had it drilled for heavier oil / sport / flat patterns. It didnt work as expected on these conditions. But thats how it is, like it or not.
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3.5" Pin to CG doesn't mean anything. To give you information that will help you out, we need your PAP (Positive Axis Point) measurement, the Pin to PAP (Positive Axis Point) distance, and preferably, the drilling angle and angle to the VAL (Vertical Axis Line). I would suggest going into the pro shop, and have him give you those specifications, and if he is unwilling to help you out, then bring that information back here and some of us can give you a more exact idea of what you can do with surface, re-drilling, adding an X-hole, etc., to help the ball do what you want it to do.
Right now, people can give you general advice, but we need more information to try and help you out. If you don't want the help, and want to just vent about a ball without exhausting all options, that's fine too, just say so.
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And once again you have proven why bowling has gone downhill. You cannot provide the information needed to make anything close to of an answer for us to help understand and to possibly give you help so your ball is not a DUD on the heavy oil you bought it for.
Your subsequent answers prove exactly why pro shops are less friendly. Pro shop drills a ball, bowler uses it, doesn't like it, bashes ball on internet and maybe even the shop that drilled it.
It is NOT BS as you say....but the stats needed are how to set up a ball properly for the intended condition. Understanding this information about each bowler is the pro shop's job and why good operators are paid $60 or more to drill a ball. There is more to it than putting 3 holes in the ball.
And finally...if your original post would have stated "REAX not working as expected on heavy oil" like your last post did instead of "DUD" I think my response (and others) would have been very different.
3835
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If your Reax is a DUD, I'll buy it off you and make it work. ;D
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3.5 inch pin to CG....I never saw so much bull shit because I said a ball was a dud. Get over it already. Sorry Im not the pro shop guy and havnt been to the ball expo etc.... I bought a ball for heavier oil, had it drilled for heavier oil / sport / flat patterns. It didnt work as expected on these conditions. But thats how it is, like it or not.
The fact that you're crying over a ball not performing on the condition you bought it for, and insisting that the pin to CG distance is at all relevant (it's not) is bullshit. You posted here making a blanket statement that the ball is a dud, and we're trying to help you because you clearly have no idea what you're talking about. All you have to do is call your pro shop and ASK him what the distance of the pin from your PAP is, and then post that information here. It's possible that you had the ball drilled too weak to perform on heavier conditions.
The ball isn't gong to handle heavy oil if you drilled it with a 6" pin-PAP. The distance of the pin from the CG means absolutely nothing, it doesn't factor into ball reaction at all and if you can't grasp that, call it bullshit etc, then you sir have a case of cranial-rectal inversion. Get your PAP from your driller and ask him how far he placed the pin from your axis. That's all it takes, you may need to plug and redrill the ball. It's not a hard concept.
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12X, I would do exactly as Flapper has suggested.. It takes 2min to make the call and for him to look up the info for you.. I'm quite sure newguy (Phil) is biting his tongue because there is no such thing as a dud only bad drillings.. Take an hour in your proshop and listen and learn or maybe your shop guy can teach you a few things.. There are also ball websites that show ball reaction from certain layouts..
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We need more negative ball reviews. If a ball doesn't match up or isn't what a bowler expects, whats wrong with saying so? Not all bowlers are knowledgeable in the ball specs or layout lingo. Just read the ball reviews. Every ball listed is reviewed as the best ever, hits like a truck, recovers on errant shots, holds on tugged shots etc. I have had balls for dry lanes be much stronger than advertised as well as heavy oil balls not as strong. On that note I do agree that he should exhaust all options before declaring a ball a mismatch.
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I'd be happy to help you fix any issues that you have with the ball. If you could take a picture of the layout or provide any video's of the ball in motion we can make a better assessment of what is going on. I am from the Long Island area as well so if you need anything done I can be of assistance.
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My dad and I have had very similar experiences with our Reax's.. Mine was great out of the box and after only a handful of games lost almost all reaction... Did several things to try and revive it, but nothing.. I have some video I shot originally when I got the ball, was very impressed with it, but have nothing "after".. If I get the motivation to throw some balls sometime this summer I may take another video.. As for my dad's, his Yeti is a ton more than the Reax.. I have tried mine on several different oil patterns and several surfaces and I know the ball is not burning up in the heads..
Not saying the ball is a dud, cause I really really liked it off the drill press.. something has changed, just not sure what.
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We need more negative ball reviews. If a ball doesn't match up or isn't what a bowler expects, whats wrong with saying so? Not all bowlers are knowledgeable in the ball specs or layout lingo. Just read the ball reviews. Every ball listed is reviewed as the best ever, hits like a truck, recovers on errant shots, holds on tugged shots etc. I have had balls for dry lanes be much stronger than advertised as well as heavy oil balls not as strong. On that note I do agree that he should exhaust all options before declaring a ball a mismatch.
Agreed, negative reviews are very helpful, but if you're posting a thread claiming that a ball is a dud without having ANY knowledge of your own technical specs and aren't willing to do something as simple as ask your driller for your PAP and the distance of the pin from said PAP, that's just ridiculous. You can't accurately review a ball if you don't know how it's drilled in relation to your axis, that just doesn't help anyone.
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In his words it isn't a dud. He just can't use it on heavy oil but rolls fine on other shots. It doesn't hook as much as other hook monsters. I woudln't consider it a dud but would be a bit disappointed not getting what I was expecting. Still for heavier flatter patterns I would want the pin in the 3.5" to 3" range from my PAP. I'm guessing if he is like many others on average it is closer to 5" from his PAP based off where he said the pin is located.
As for Jhutch769, have your tried resurfacing the ball back to factory finish? The Yeti is a polished ball which requires much less maintenance and will experience slower surface changes vs the Reax. Box is 500 then 1500. May be worth trying to help get the teeth back in the ball.
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I would almost NEVER recommend a pin to pap that close to leverage...you can create as much bad ball reaction by creating too much flare as too much surface. Surface dictates how the ball slows down...flare can increase how quickly it slows down and too much is NOT better...
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So nothing in the 3" to 4.5" range?
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I'll get the tech info from my driller ...I Know the pin to pap is slightly less then 4. My driller has drilled my stuff for years, he knows what I need and laid this ball out according to the conditions I was looking to use it on. He drilled my Revenge, nightmare, terror, manic, iq pearl etc.... for conditions that I want to use each on. All worked just like I expected on the conditions they were meant to be used on.....The Reax does not...its that simple.
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kid, short answer, yes.
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I've had balls that were more condition-specific than others, but I wouldn't call them duds.
Also, remember that every ball needs to find adequate friction, but finding it too early pretty much kills the late movement on the lane. There is no easy answer in this forum, because we cannot see your ball reaction. Is it reading too soon, or never quite reading soon enough?
If you are in a warm climate (extra heat means extra friction) I'd suggest taking it down to 500 sia air (or abralon) and then skip the other steps and put a small amount of Rough Buff on the cover. It will look slightly shiny, but watch to see if the late movement returns. If so, then you're good for awhile, or at least until conditions change. You can also go the other direction if needed. I suspect that going a little weaker on the cover will help.
Here in Salt Lake we've just finished about 10 days of very warm temps. Our lane machine didn't change what it was doing, but the effect of the heat was drastic. Every ball I used was hooking an extra 2-3 boards on average! I had to really move inside and let the oil help create the skid that was necessary to optimize carry.
Best of luck as you move forward. If I can be of further help please PM me. I can usually get these Brunswick covers to hit once I know what you are experiencing.
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Wow, lots of speculation. First off without seeing you throw a ball it would be unfair for me to comment on how the ball should perform based on the info regarding the drill pattern.
The Reax is "our" strongest ball, I have a Torrid Elite that out hooks my Reax on every pattern I bowl on, why because my ball speed is about 14 mph and I am rev dominate.
Now on occasion I will bowl on a test pattern that is longer and a bit heavier, the Reax out performs the Elite.
I am disappointed that you feel qualified to label this ball a dud and comment that is sucks. I have never put a ball in the market that claimed to do something it wasn't capable of doing.
I noticed the comment about Long Island, I am from there, there is not a house on "the island" that uses enough oil to claim heavy. I still go to the island many times a year and bowl there quite often, I recently bowl a USBC tournament there and finished 3rd using a polished Yeti, what was amazing was that the bowlers were all complaining how much oil was on the lanes, what my buddies call heavy would be considered medium at best. My point is if you take a strong ball and drill it strong you need a true heavy pattern to see it work, adjusting the surface may be a bandaid at best.
The balls you listed as your heavy oil balls are much weaker than the Reax, again without seeing you throw a ball I can say that a pin 4 inch from the pap is far to strong for what you are bowling on. I have my pins on the Reax at 5+ and it is still too much ball. We have very detailed drill sheets in each box, did you get a chance to look at them, we suggest that your driller measure your track to determine which set of drilling's you should follow, high, medium or low track and without measuring the track you would be guessing.
Lastly and please do not take this the wrong way, in my 26 years of doing this I have seen many posts, complaints etc, I do believe many times ( not necessarily in your case but many times) its the Indian not the arrow, meaning he is not matched up properly so the best thing to do is blame the ball, the lanes or whatever else.
Please go back and check the drill sheets, they are on our website as well and be sure you got what you needed.
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New Guy (Phil) Thanks for your response. My main issue is this....If the ball is to strong, why is it better then my DV8 stuff on a lighter pattern? As I mentioned I also used it on kegel patterns...Rt 66, winding road, dead mans curve etc,,, Long Island or not these are kegel patterns. I agree the house shots on the island are low volume but some are not. On the heavier or flatter patterns the reax is not what I expected, just like my Nightmare is a dud on a lighter pattern....but again..I didnt get the Nightmare for a low volume shot. I will get the exact specs from my driller. On the lighter volume house shot that is used in one of my leagues (kegel stone street) The reax was great and carried everything. I just wished it did that on a rt 66, or dead mans curve type of patterns.
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12,
Listen, I feel for you. I've bought several balls that I thought were going to be awesome heavy oil balls, and they haven't quite lived up to my expectations. I've tried 2 out of the 3 in the line, and after what I've seen from the first 2 in the series (which I've drilled 2 of the first one), not going to gamble on the third one. They, too, are ok when they're broken down, but compared to my other equipment, where I can go more left to right with them, these I can't. They don't jump off the spot, and personally, need a surface change out of the box.
Now, bowling on Shark this weekend, and for sure am bringing them. Going to try them on the fresh, and if I don't like the look, I'm probably going to get rid of them. But I know what works for me, and what doesn't. Maybe this weightblock just doesn't roll well for you. Some people work well with certain weightblocks and designs. The balls you listed are all meant to be angular by design, so if you put the same layout on a ball that isn't meant to be angular (Reax isn't meant to be angular, IMO), you're not going to see the same motion. In fact, it may be overflaring and just puking on the fresh, and then once there's friction, it can look different on medium.
Personally, I'm with Phil. I wouldn't drill this ball with anything closer to my pap than 5 inches, and that's even stretching it. If you can't get anybody any information on your game or how the ball is laid out, we're grasping at straws.
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New Guy (Phil) Thanks for your response. My main issue is this....If the ball is to strong, why is it better then my DV8 stuff on a lighter pattern? As I mentioned I also used it on kegel patterns...Rt 66, winding road, dead mans curve etc,,, Long Island or not these are kegel patterns. I agree the house shots on the island are low volume but some are not. On the heavier or flatter patterns the reax is not what I expected, just like my Nightmare is a dud on a lighter pattern....but again..I didnt get the Nightmare for a low volume shot. I will get the exact specs from my driller. On the lighter volume house shot that is used in one of my leagues (kegel stone street) The reax was great and carried everything. I just wished it did that on a rt 66, or dead mans curve type of patterns.
One more comment, you statement about the kegel patterns is flawed. Here is why, let say we have a brand new glass table top and apply 10 units of oil and measure the friction, then apply 10 units of oil to a cement slab, will the friction read the same, we applied the same amount of oil? . there is not a new surface on long island and the friction will always be higher regardless of the patterns intention. Weaker balls with stronger patterns and strong balls with weaker drill patterns have always been the rule for the island.
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12,
Now, bowling on Shark this weekend, and for sure am bringing them. Going to try them on the fresh, and if I don't like the look, I'm probably going to get rid of them.
Quick sidebar. Don't load up on (only) heavy oil balls for Shark. Last year I never threw any of my strong stuff on it, and the first time I saw it this year I used a polished Nuts Pearl and wish I had something weaker (at least cleaner up front) by the 4th game. My experience is only PBA leagues; if you're bowling a regional or something where the machines are capable of putting out heavier volumes, you might need stronger equipment.
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Newguy...
If I was to get a reax pearl and used it on Long Island patterns / kegel...what would be a "weak" pattern for that ball for a bowler with a low/med track...16 - 17 mph etc....tweener. I know you dont have my axis tilt and all the specs but in general....a negative pin placement? Pin up? Down? GC kicked out etc??? Low angles? The drill sheets dont say "weak" drill pattern.
Thanks
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12,
Now, bowling on Shark this weekend, and for sure am bringing them. Going to try them on the fresh, and if I don't like the look, I'm probably going to get rid of them.
Quick sidebar. Don't load up on (only) heavy oil balls for Shark. Last year I never threw any of my strong stuff on it, and the first time I saw it this year I used a polished Nuts Pearl and wish I had something weaker (at least cleaner up front) by the 4th game. My experience is only PBA leagues; if you're bowling a regional or something where the machines are capable of putting out heavier volumes, you might need stronger equipment.
Not to create a sidebar, but I am also going in there with some lowend stuff, in case I have to move back right.
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Newguy...
If I was to get a reax pearl and used it on Long Island patterns / kegel...what would be a "weak" pattern for that ball for a bowler with a low/med track...16 - 17 mph etc....tweener. I know you dont have my axis tilt and all the specs but in general....a negative pin placement? Pin up? Down? GC kicked out etc??? Low angles? The drill sheets dont say "weak" drill pattern.
Thanks
A control pattern will start up mid lane, an angular drilling would be best on most house shots and would give you the recovery down the lane, you can bite off as much of the top hat you are comfortable with and feed it to the dry. Be careful it may jump too hard off the spot. A pin 5 inch from your pap will store energy and go harder down the lane. you can tame it down with a bite of surface. hope this helps.
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I am surprised to hear the comments about the Reax. I drilled mine 70x3-3/8x30 and had to polish it to get it down lane. The cover was just too strong @ out of box. I have used mine on many Kegel Sport and Challenge patterns as well as other various patterns. It was my savior at States this year. It handled the longer patterns with ease and have me an area of miss that many of my other stuff struggled. Even with the small coat of polish, I have issues kicking out the corners on our house shot. The ball is great for the fresh but if I'm slow to move into more head oil, the ball loses energy. Even though its a 42 foot pattern, the cover is just that strong. IMO the Reax is a great piece and I can't wait for the pearl. I could have fun with 2 solid and 2 pearl Reax in my bag.
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ANYBODY, that labels ANY ball a dud, has no tact. To blatantly label ANY ball a dud, is to patently paint the entire production of that model as faulty and useless.
Many of the users here understand that he doesn't mean that model is a total failure, but there are many others who would merely read the op's post and leave it at that, to go on thinking that the REAX was a flop.
PLEASE people, if you like a ball, then say so. If you DIS-like a ball, then say so. But don't come on here making broad claims and accusations about the qualities or abilities of ANY ball based on your limited experience with it. There are still many who pop in here to check out a balls rep before they buy, and statements like this can keep them from getting a ball that might work great for THEM.
Maybe the ball just didn't work for you. God knows the Lev-RG didn't work for me AT ALL, but that doesn't mean it was a dud or a flop, just that it didn't match up to me at all. Worked great for some guys, that's why I got one in the first place, just didn't work for me. And I said so in my review. Didn't knock the ball, just said it didn't work for me.
12XSECH, you sound like a reasonably intelligent guy, so I'm pretty sure you get what I am saying. I really don't understand why someone with as much supposed knowledge and experience as you claim would come here and make a blanket statement about a ball that obviously works for some people, just doesn't seem to for you. If it works for ANYBODY, then it cannot be labeled in a blanket statement as a dud.
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Jugg,
I also said the ball was great on a lighter pattern where my DV8 stuff was terrible. However, I didnt get it for the lighter volume conditions...FOR ME PEOPLE.....the reax was a dud on heavier patterns and several kegel patterns...at different houses. I used the reax on 4 different kegel patterns at 4 different houses with the same bad result. WITH THAT BEING SAID....When my fall league starts up again and they put out the Stone Street pattern (basically a house shot) it will be the first ball I take out. Its gonna replace my Storm Manic for that condition. The Nightmare, hellraiser and Revenge (unless all polished up) dont work great there...a lot of 10 pins.
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The Tombstone was a dud...
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Werewolf too. Too much core for cover
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Tombstone should have been placed under one
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I loved the Werewolf color, just wished they made that in a pearl with that color.
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12xsech,
We are sorry to hear that your expectations weren't met. Im an old time bowler from the early 70's, i always believed/believe that the ball is always the same and the only variables was the house conditions and the bowler throwing the ball. With that said supplying your stats from the beginning would've helped. You even got a staffer here willing to review your layout. Venting is ok but don't put down a ball without trying everything. I own +200 balls, i learned if a ball wasn't performing up to my standards that i had options from polishing, re-pitching, surfacing, weight hole placement, etc. What i could do as a bowler ranged from hand positions to speed and release choices. I recently bowled the States with a Reax on flooded conditions and shot a 138 on game#1. I then changed lines, speed, and release and ended up winning almost every division afterwards and getting most of the sidepots as well. Im not better then you are, but we need to explore other options over TIME before condeming.
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More information is needed before anybody can help you...
how's it drilled?
what are your bowler specs?
have you tried any surface less than 1000 grit?
how did you change the surface?
how are the other balls drilled that you are comparing it to?
need more info.....
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Hit the ball with 500 Abralon, bowled a 44ft sport pattern, ball was night and day better. Ended up playing out around 3 where no one else was, finished second.. Took it to league the next night and hit it with 600 Wet Sand, ball is back to normal. Shot 268-700 Wednesday night and 269-731 Saturday with it.. Just needed more surface.. The ball shines itself up really quick so I anticipate hitting it with the paper every 6-12 games.