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Author Topic: Neptune  (Read 1604 times)

dR3w

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Neptune
« on: March 20, 2007, 03:25:11 AM »
A friend of mine bought a Neptune and is experiencing a lot of under over reaction in the back end with his.  He is a high rev, low speed, high axis of rotation player, that likes to play 20 to 5 on a typical shot.  The house he uses it on is a med/dry THS with about 36-39' of oil.  The ball is drilled 6 x 4, by that I mean 6" pin to pap and 4" pap to psa (as measured 6 3/4" through CG).  Anyway, I am guessing that the drilling combined with strong back ends, is causing this ball to overreact on the back end, and was wondering if anyone thought surface changes would help.  I just abralon'd it to 2000, in the hope that this would smooth out the reaction.  I was thinking about 320 abralon with rough buff (or Storm Step 2).  

Any input?
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dR3w

"I did nothing. I did absolutely nothing, and it was everything I thought it could be. "
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BackToBasics

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Re: Neptune
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2007, 11:57:26 AM »
quote:
He is a high rev, low speed, high axis of rotation player


This combinations along with a low flaring drill can cause plenty of over/under.  For most people, 6" pins will create a very long and smooth downlane reaction.  However, for us high axis rotation players, this layout actually makes the ball go sideways when it hits friction.  But then it also skates too much in oil.  I tend to only go 6" in high flaring balls so that I still get enough flare to create read.  Otherwise you have a ball with 0" of flare which can be very sensitive.

In order to eliminate the over/under, you have to have the ball slow down quicker.  Your first choice is surface. 2000grit, 1000grit or even 800.  The other choice, and one that works quite well for me is to go with a rev-leverage hole.  Assuming you have enough side and thumb, go 6 3/4" from the center of the grip at a 45* angle down in the thumb/pos quadrant.  Make sure you go at least 3 inches to hit the core.  If you don't have enough side/thumb, go deeper in the middle finger.  This will hopefully increase the flare just enough to get the ball to read sooner and not be so over/under.  Maybe the combination of surface and hole will do the trick.

Good luck and let me know how this works.  I'm thinking about drilling up another Neptune similarly for Kentucky at TNBA Nationals.
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Anthony Chapman

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Videos coming soon...As soon as my son can hold the camera
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dR3w

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Re: Neptune
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2007, 12:59:22 PM »
Thanks, I'll let you know how this works out, but he won't be using this ball at that house till next Monday, so it might take a while to give you an answer.

Drew
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dR3w

"I did nothing. I did absolutely nothing, and it was everything I thought it could be. "
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BackToBasics

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Re: Neptune
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2007, 01:04:41 PM »
No problem....TNBA Nationals is in May
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Anthony Chapman

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Videos coming soon...As soon as my son can hold the camera
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LuckyLefty

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Re: Neptune
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2007, 01:24:21 PM »
As the knowledgeable Achappy states.

This is a very LOW FLARE ball...is it (.018 differential)

A good general rule for many bowlers is drill your weak stuff strong and your strong stuff weaker to make them work for many conditions one will encounter in a broad range of mediums.

A weak ball drilled VERY weakly is USUALLY only good for the bone dryest of conditions!  Unless one is of the highest rev slowest speed type of bowlers.

REgards,

Luckylefty
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King Fozy of Billingshire

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Re: Neptune
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2007, 08:29:23 AM »
yes  i loved throwing this ball during league and looking and seeing almost no track flare... thats what makes this ball great.... i have always preferred a low flare piece anyways.. mine isnt too agressive.... just a nice smooth arc no real flippy movement

     pin o o


        x


           o     left handed
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dR3w

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Re: Neptune
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2007, 11:39:50 AM »
Just refreshing this thread to update the progress.

First I tried lowering the surface, and it didn't really seem to help much.  It might have moved slightly earlier but it wasn't significant enough to stop the over/under reaction.

Next, I plugged the finger holes and shifted the pin to pap distance to 4" from 6" while trying to keep the thumb in roughly the same position.  This brought the pin roughly level to his ring finger (PAP to CG is 5.5 over and 3/4 up).  On top of that I dulled the surface to 1000 grit abralon.

This seemed to help.  The ball (in my somewhat experienced opinion), definitely moves earlier.  It is definitely trying to flare more, and it is almost kind of comical to see it flaring and trying, but not really going anywhere.

Anyway, my friend seemed to be more pleased with the reaction, even if he didn't shoot lights out with it.  The ball definitely appears to be more predictable to me.

Thanks for the help!


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dR3w

"I did nothing. I did absolutely nothing, and it was everything I thought it could be. "
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