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Author Topic: RS-X Question  (Read 1916 times)

EboHammer4ever

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RS-X Question
« on: September 21, 2005, 03:59:45 AM »
Hi everyone.  I just drilled an RS-X last night and intended it to be my oil ball.  Ball came with a 3 3/4" pin and low top weight.  After laying out service choices, I decided to drill it for me 4 x 3 (PAP is 5 1/2" over and 3/8" up).  That put the pin to the right and up from my ring finger about an inch and the CG about 3/4" below my midline.  I wanted this so that I could get more thumb weight to make it roll sooner.  So I drilled the fingers deeper to get them close to 1/4 ounce and left the thumb with 3/4 ounce.  Drilled a weight hole an 1 1/2" in from my PAP on the midline back to 3/4 ounce positive.  Threw this after league to try it on carrydown to get a good read.  The ball definitely revved up sooner than anything I have now and thats quite a bit but with the shell being 1500 polished, it never could grab the lane unless I swung it to the dry.  I was trying it deeper, around 20 to 15 and it would just slide.  So I went and put a cross hatch on it with a gray scotch brite to take the factory finish off it and that tamed down the reaction and made it pick up even earlier.  My question to you guys is, did I drill this right and is my surface preperation correct?  I love the heavy revving this ball has and the hit is nice.  The only thing I would do is drill the thumb deeper and put some plug back in the fingers (no grips) to let is rev even quicker.  I won't fool around with it but I am going to throw it tonight in league to see how it works.  I might just have to get used to this reaction as the only thing I have to compare it with is my Fear Factor that is drilled fairly close and that has a more even reaction to it.  I'll post my review soon. Any comments you could give me would help.  Thanx guys.

New RotoGrip Fan in the making here.

 

Jeffrevs

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2005, 12:05:48 PM »
low rg high flare ball........you're not going to get a BIG backend out of this especially if you "cross-hatch" it...for medium-heavy THS...I'd smooth it w/ a grey, or blue scotchbrite....
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JEFF
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EboHammer4ever

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2005, 12:11:54 PM »
Would you go across the track Jeff?  I didn't put a heavy cross hatch on it.  Thanx.

charlest

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2005, 12:24:00 PM »
Thumb weight will affect pancake core balls;. It will not affect dynamic cored balls like the RS-X. WHat will affect it is where and how you place the weight hole to remove the side and thumb weight. Plug up the weight hole you have and place a weight hole in line from grip center through the marked CG, a distance of approx 6 3/4"; I'd take it back to 0 or 1/4 oz side. With any luck that will be 2 1/2" - 3 1/2" below your PAP. That will add some earlier flare to the ball.

Unless you have a mammoth amount of revs, a polished solid resin is not likely to be anyone's heavy oil ball. If you decide to do what I suggest above or even if you don't, take a green or maroon Scotch-Brite nylon pad to the lanes and try to practice on an amount of oil similar to what you bowl on. Use the nylon pad to alter the ball's surface by hand, a small amount at a time. The first change should be easily noticeable, but don't go too far. This cover is still decently strong. YOu should notice a change in ball reaction immediately but it may not be enough. COntinue to make small changes, testing each one several times to insure you know and can see what's happening.

I think if you take a grey pad to the entire ball immediately with a spinner, the change may be much more than you wanted. A little patience may be necessary the first time you do this, especially since this is a new ball. After a time, you should more easily recognize how much surface change you need/want.

Good luck.
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Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
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Edited on 9/21/2005 12:18 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

EboHammer4ever

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2005, 12:34:57 PM »
Charlest, won't a weight hole that far have it flaring over that weight hole?  I practically flares all over the ball now?  Also, I didn't dull it up that much, just knocked the shine off it.  Are you suggesting just scuffing up the track area with the scotch brite pads?  Thanx for the advise.  I do have a fairly good amount of revs, but not enough to make a shined ball rev in oil.  I never thought this ball would and I had already thought about taking the shine off it.  I don't want to be reliant on finding the dry boards to allow a ball to hit so I thought I would try that approach with this ball.  Thanx for the input.  I'm going to try it tonight like it is to get a better read on this ball before I play around with the weight hole.

Jeffrevs

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #5 on: September 21, 2005, 12:52:25 PM »
quote:
Would you go across the track Jeff?  I didn't put a heavy cross hatch on it.  Thanx.


See the "Wise One's" post (charlest) ......

Something else I meant to say was....this ball is going to rev nice and quick for you regardless...w/ it's low rg.
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JEFF
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EboHammer4ever

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2005, 12:55:38 PM »
OK Thanx Jeff.  I am going to try it with just a light coat of polish like I've seen other guys have theirs prepped after cutting down the factory finish and shining it with a polish with more bite in it like 320 or 400.  I guess I just got a little new ball jitters thats all. Thanx.

charlest

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Re: RS-X Question
« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2005, 02:31:18 PM »
quote:
Charlest, won't a weight hole that far have it flaring over that weight hole?  I practically flares all over the ball now?



RG Differential always pints to potential flare. I can't say whether or not it will flare that much. Don't forget that hole is also low. YOu can compromise a bit and put the hole at a distance = to your PAP's distance. If the hole is still low, that placement will be less likely to have the flaring track go over it.

Also since the ball has the potential to flare a lot, that distance will make it flare less than the 6 3/4" distance hole.

quote:

 Also, I didn't dull it up that much, just knocked the shine off it.  Are you suggesting just scuffing up the track area with the scotch brite pads?



I never suggest that, since it's illegal for USBC/ABC bowlers; it's only legal for PBA bowlers. No, I'd suggest going over the whole ball, as you said you did. You get more aggressive with the pad, as you need.

quote:

 Thanx for the advise.  I do have a fairly good amount of revs, but not enough to make a shined ball rev in oil.  I never thought this ball would and I had already thought about taking the shine off it.  I don't want to be reliant on finding the dry boards to allow a ball to hit so I thought I would try that approach with this ball.  Thanx for the input.  I'm going to try it tonight like it is to get a better read on this ball before I play around with the weight hole.


Very sensible. Let common sense AND bowling sense rule in all these "adventures". Good luck. I think you'll like the results. It's very hard to make a Roto-Grip ball NOT work.

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Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
Life: Deal with what is.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."