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Author Topic: Natural Pearl  (Read 20037 times)

admin

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Natural Pearl
« on: December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 PM »
Ball NPS Score: 100.00
- Color: Black Pearl
- Coverstock: U2Sâ„¢ Pearl Urethane
- Weight Block: Turbineâ„¢
- Ball Finish: 4000-Abralon
- Flare Potential: 3”-4” (Medium)
- RG: 16#-2.53, 15#-2.55, 14#-2.58
- Diff: 16#-.040, 15#-.038, 14#-.035
- Recommend Lane Conditions: Dry
- A few tiny pit holes in the cover stock of the ball are normal
- Description: You probably saw the success of the original Natural on the PBA tour this past season. What you might not have noticed was, at the same time, how popular it was throughout international competitions around the world. So it only made sense to release a pearl version of the ball which took the bowling world by Storm! The U2S pearl urethane coversock is a modern generation form of the original urethane made popular in the 80s. What once was used to create more hook and friction as it developed out of the polyester era, urethane has the ability to tame overreacting backends without sacrificing hitting power, or coefficient of restitution. And if you''''ve ever doubted the hitting power of the Natural, just ask Rhino Page who is the reigning Viper Pattern champion on the PBA tour. Try one today. You''''ll become a believer.

 

leaguebowler

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2010, 01:36:39 PM »
just got this ball 2 weeks ago due to my spare ball cracking. This ball is great all around ball can shoot my 10 pin straight thru middle of lane without worry of ball hooking.As a first ball i start the night straight up over the 7 board and by the last game in league play you can moe any wear from 7 to 15 board and get a little mor back end.As said evan in third game ball will still go straight thru the middle for spare shooting this could be the ball for you if your looking for a single ball for everything or just a spare ball with an extra bonus.

jwrwooky

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2010, 10:28:16 PM »
After bowling many years on mens league I had to have a ball that would get down the lane on the tough third game lane conditions. I drilled a Natural Pearl last night before league (Tuesday) for my up coming tournament on new years day. My Tuesday night team happened to be bowling our rivals that night. By the middle of the second game we had burn't outside 10 up and the middle was starting to roll up early, so I pulled the Natural Pearl out and played with it the last half of the second game. It really impressed me by how far down the lane it got and it before it started making a move to the pocket. I decided to throw it the third game, I ended up shooting 300 while the rest of my right handed team members and rivals struggled with the middle part of the lane. I would recomend this ball to anyone who has trouble increasing ball speed as the lane conditions start breaking down. It doesn't have a strong back end but you will hold pocket side with ease. My natural Pearl was drilled with pin above ring finger and the cg not quite straight up but kicked out about a 1/4 inch. This ball will serve a purpose in the bag and I feel it was a good purhase.

GRstorm

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2010, 09:09:46 PM »
Hand: Left
Ball Speed: 15-16mph
Ball Weight: 15lbs
PAP: 5 left 7/16 up
Degrees of Tilt: 17
Layout: 65 x 5 x 40

Like Rhino Paige said “WOW this is a urethane?!”  It has a different motion than the original natural. The layout has the pin above my ring and cg towards my midline. The natural pearl has a stronger angle to the pocket and finishes just as hard as the natural. I was really surprise from the first few shots I threw with it how strong it was even in a little oil in the middle it still had hook to the pocket. When the original natural is hooking too much with the surface on it you can go to the natural pearl that has the 4000 abralon and still have the ball finish but get further down the lane without worrying if it is going to jump on you.

I have a video on facebook and youtube. If you have any questions about the Natural pearl email me at grichardson7716@aol.com.

Garrett Richardson
Storm/Vise Inserts Amateur Staff
Al Louie's Pinole/Diablo Valley Pro Shop
www.facebook.com/grstorm
www.stormbowling.com
www.rotogrip.com
www.viseinserts.com


tommygn

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2011, 08:37:10 AM »
The pearl Natural is the latest addition to the urethane family of bowling balls. It comes out of the box at 4000 abralon, and uses the same turbine core found in the ever popular Natural. As you may already know, Storm uses a 500 to final finish process that allows for optimum peaks and valleys (RA values) at the finished surface prep.






I drilled two pearl Naturals. The first ball I drilled was out at the WSOB. I drilled this pearl the same as a solid Natural that I had with me, which used a pin under ring, 65 degree from PAP layout (5 x 4), which allowed me to use an extra hole on my VAL, 1.5” below PAP. I ended up using the ball on the Viper, with good success. The pearl Natural gave me more skid to the breakpoint, and thus creating a bit more angle into the pins. I was actually surprised at how well the ball rolled through the backend, as it did leave me a few 8 pins, as well as some 6 pins. Comparing the original solid to the pearl, the pearl was cleaner up front, with more angle down lane. With that said, keep in mind, these are urethane balls, so more angle doesn’t mean “reactive” reaction.  You still have to keep the pearl in front of you, to allow yourself the best chance of scoring with the ball.


The second Pearl I drilled put the pin above my ring, and the cg on my grip line (5 x 5.5), no extra hole. Again, this matches the first Natural I ever drilled, allowing me to compare the overall difference being in the cover change to a pearl from the solid found on the original. Both balls are at true 4000 abralon (hitting all steps of abralon on the spinner until reaching the final finish prep). I used this ball on a fairly fresh house condition. Bowling on pro-anvilane (third generation), using Kegel oil, I was able to play a board or so just inside the oil line. The pearl gave me about 3 feet more length than the solid, keeping me about two boards left of the lay down of the solid. I bowled quite a few games with the 2 balls, and after the midlanes showed signs of carrydown, the solid actually gave me a bit of over- under, as it would start up too quick when standing on top of the dry, but would not read the midlane and backend properly, when staying a few boards to the right. The Pearl allowed me to stand on top of the dry, and continue striking. It didn’t read the fronts the way the solid did, but still had enough on the backend to carry out the 7 pin.


The biggest thing to keep in mind about urethane bowling balls is that you want to keep the reaction in front of you. Therefore, since they don’t have the friction factor in the backend the way reactive does, the moves you make will be much fewer boards. Instead of jumping 4-10 boards, your moves will be much smaller, 1 -2 boards, and sometimes the occasionally ½ board, just enough to allow that pesky corner pin to fall. With that said, I think every tournament bowler, as well as people bowling on high friction surfaces, should have a urethane bowling ball in their arsenal. It allows you to stay out of trouble, when reactive balls are just forcing you too deep into the oil pattern, and your angles start to get away from you. With the addition of the Pearl Natural, you now have 2 great options to choose from with a urethane cover stock from Storm.


 


Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com
God creates us with a blank canvas, and the "picture" we paint is up to us. Paint a picture you like and love!

Rotoguy300

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2011, 10:24:43 PM »

Layout- Pin above bridge, cg stacked, no hole.

 

I  have a Roto Grip Grenade and absolutely LOVE it, so I decided to try  Storm’s pearl urethane, the Natural Pearl. What I wanted was a  urethane-type ball reaction with a little more length, which was what I  got, but I must say I was caught off guard by exactly how strong this  ball still was for a pearl urethane. It provides a nice go-between when  your solid urethanes just don’t quite enough on the back to carry and  your reactives still overreact. My carry percentages are much higher  with this ball than with other urethanes I’ve thrown in the past, which I  guess is where this ball sets itself apart. That 1-2 flat 10s a game I  often get with urethane are gone with this ball. This ball clearly  addresses all of the concerns one might have with owning a urethane ball  and is a must have for pretty much any tournament bowlers’ arsenal,  outside of those that fire rockets and would likely not need a urethane  ball anyway.

 
 
 



bosco_13jr

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2011, 10:53:07 AM »

My Natural pearl is drilled Rico drilling and at 1000, this ball is great for lighter volume house patterns or patterns that have a extreme drop off and the outside of the lane. Ive shot 800 with this ball already and no matter where I go it goes with me cause you never know what could be out there.



Thomas Bosquez
Storm Amature Staff
Thomas Bosquez
Brunswick  Staff
Mongoose Staffing Director
Bowlifi Staffing Director.
Vise Staff

UF bowling

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2014, 01:19:43 PM »
Got the Natural Pearl amidst some hit and miss reviews. Turned out to be a really great decision! Ball is great for the light oil conditions we bowl on in our sport league. Wasn't sure how I'd feel about throwing a urethane ball, but the continuation through the pins on short is one of the best reactions I've ever had! – Jason R.

bowling_rebel

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Re: Natural Pearl
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2019, 08:03:27 PM »
LANE CONDITION

Length: Short oil or the burn

Volume: Light

Type (THS, Sport Pattern etc): Sport



COMMENTS

Likes: Amazing ball for very light or short oil

Dislikes: Nothing. It can't handle any oil - but that's the point.


PICTURES AND/OR VIDEOS

I'm a no-thumb (1 hand) bowler who uses primarily urethane to control the ball on sport shot. The recent "urethane" like balls (such as Fever Pitch, Covert Tank) have brought us major improvement over the classic urethane ball that came before.

The problem is that these newer balls are really designed for control on medium oil. If you have a low rev rate - they would be fine for light oil as well. With a high rev rate, they will over hook on the dry, and not come back if through it in the oil. So on tough conditions the outside burns up, but when move inside, the ball doesn't come back.

The Natural Pearl (which I was super luck to find a like new condition on on ebay) does not roll like other older urethane's.

1. It's pearlized, so it gets through the head even on the dry. Solid urethane balls, tend to roll early, which can make them tricky to use when the front it burned up.

2. It has a decently high differential, so it flares and you get much less carry down than with a low diff urethane.

3. When used properly on the outside it comes back hard. To compare, I also have a blue hammer, which has about equal hook to Natural Pearl. But that one rolls early and sits, whereas this has a much stronger move.

4. Ball has great control on short oil.

In conclusion, while I am very happy with the latest advancements in "urethane" like balls, I feel that now leaves a gap where there are not true, dry lane balls to use on the burn. This ball has been my savior a few times this summer in sport shot leagues and if someone needs a true dry lane ball and finds this on eBay, there is nothing else like it.