BallReviews

Equipment Boards => Storm => Topic started by: eltaco on November 10, 2009, 03:25:26 PM

Title: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: eltaco on November 10, 2009, 03:25:26 PM
Well, my arsenal is starting to fill up, and I was feeling pretty good about it until my league altered our shot.

They are now completely stripping the lanes and laying down a med-light pattern... and I simply don't have a ball that's working for me. Unfortunately, my 2nd Dimension is my "weakest" ball, which isn't very weak at all on this pattern. As soon as I hit the dry it takes off. I need something that will be more predictable when it hits the dry, and hopefully give me some area to help my novice inconsistancies.

I'm probably a medium rev stroker player, which is why the 2nd dimension is typically a weaker predicatble ball for me on medium oil or carrydown conditions. I was initially looking towards a Fast, but now that the backends are this dry, I'm positive that would have been a bad move. I'm really considering the Natural, but I don't know what to expect with my medium rev throw. Thoughts, suggestions; all welcome.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: ValentinoBowling on November 10, 2009, 11:41:27 PM
I''d play with surface adjustments on the 2nd Dimension. In my professional opinion, I feel that taking a medium-oil ball and evening out the reaction is much more effect than using a light oil ball....Especially when the lanes transition and you have you put more revs/torque on the light ball. (this usually, at least for me, causes an inconsistent release and lane read)

If you want to keep your 2nd dimension I would suggest trying some of our UFO Polish, it causes a delayed reaction to combat dry oil.

If you want to go with a new ball....Give the Ebonite Tornado or a Storm Tropical a try, those are very well rounded (pun intended) light/medium shot balls.

-Kevin
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www.ValentinoBowling.com
makers of Snake Oil, Remedy RX, Resurrection & UFO
Premium Maintenance Products


Edited on 11/11/2009 0:41 AM
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: eltaco on November 10, 2009, 11:46:54 PM
Forgive my lack of understanding I really haven't played with surface prep a lot.

I thought
More polish = longer roll, snappier backend
Less polish = earlier roll, more overall hook

I assumed I'd want to stay away from more polish and go towards an abralon if anything... perhaps I'm mistaken?
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: flybub on November 11, 2009, 06:49:54 AM
The polish will give you more of a snap on the backend, but with that polish on there you are able to conserve the energy for the backend.  It's not a longer roll, it's just a delayed reaction (longer skid) which gives you the length you need to get through some light oil.  If you just hit it with an abralon pad it will read the lane earlier and possible burn off the energy in the midlane which leaves you with no energy for the backend.  I agree with playing with the surface before dropping the cash for a new rock.  Storm/Roto Grip equipment take surface changes really well so you should not have any problem there.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: n00dlejester on November 11, 2009, 09:36:29 AM
I will second the thoughts for the surface changes.  What you have now, the ball is 1500 Polished.  I would say try adding some of that polish Kevin mentioned which delays the reaction and will tame it down overall, causing it to go further down the lane and hook less boards overall.

If that doesn't work, try upping the grit level underneath.  Take a 2000 or 4000 Abralon pad, then polish it.  The smoother underlying grit level will get the ball further down lane before making a move.  It wont necessarily be snappier, just longer.  I know that's a weird thought lol.

In my experiences, I use 4000 Abralon with Ebonite Magic Shine polish on bowling balls I use for drier lanes.  The polish is mild, and really helps the ball conserve energy but still be able to turn and carry corners.  

Hope this helps!
--------------------
Proud Supporter of Rob Stone
Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: tdub36tjt on November 11, 2009, 09:48:10 AM
The Storm ball I had most success on this condition was my Rapid Firesolid drilled pin in the palm. It didn't ever seem to overreact which made it easy to get lined up with. I don't really throw it anymore because I changed my spans but it was very solid on said condition as long as there wasn't a puddle in the middle.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: 12X on November 11, 2009, 10:08:08 AM
I agree with n00dlejester, put 4000 abralon and polish with magic shine.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: OddBalls on November 11, 2009, 10:12:16 AM
Urethane is your friend..


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Yes. it's I, the Inverted One..

Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: supernoodle on November 11, 2009, 10:26:57 AM
I agree with tdub about the Rapid Fire Solid. Bowled a 300 yesterday with mine (used and only bowled a couple of times with it) on the condition you mentioned. Not bad considering it was only my fifth game back after not bowling at all for 6 months.

In terms of handling some oil I think it is ok as long as there is some kind of back end, however I have seen people using one that has some surface (mine is polished) and it seems to be able to handle a decent volume of the slick stuff, though obviously not as well as some of the latest oil monsters.

For versatility it is definitely a 10/10 ball.
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I would have got away with it if it was not for those pesky kids (Behind my lane) and those blasted 10 pins.

Edited on 11/11/2009 11:27 AM
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: Joe Jr on November 11, 2009, 10:46:09 AM
Sounds like you need a natural.
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My Vid (http://"http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e56/RevLefty/Vids/?action=view¤t=IMG_0291.flv")
Just another hack with too much equipment.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: the pooh on November 11, 2009, 10:59:13 AM
I,too,vote for the Natural.It will hook, but the backend will be smooth as butter. Still carrys pretty well, too!
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the pooh
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: Badger856 on November 11, 2009, 11:06:32 AM
tons of balls to use, but most importantly is how you drill the ball.  Find a good driller and go over drillings that would be best
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: eltaco on November 12, 2009, 09:03:10 AM
n00dlejester,

I went with your advice and did 4000 abralon and polish before league last night... HUGE difference. I went with my Power Bolt to start things off, expecting to switch to my newly polished 2nd dimension in the 2nd game. After throwing a great (for me) first game of 202, I made the mistake of not switching to the 2nd dimension in time. Thankfully I ended the second game with my 2nd dimension for a sloppy 158. This is where I typically struggle, because the lanes are dry and squirly by the third game. I came back with the 2nd dimension for a 201 finish.

Thanks for the help, guys. I seem to learn valuable lessons every week. This week: surface finishing and not to be afraid of a ball change in the middle of a bad game.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: flybub on November 12, 2009, 09:08:55 AM
quote:
n00dlejester,

I went with your advice and did 4000 abralon and polish before league last night... HUGE difference. I went with my Power Bolt to start things off, expecting to switch to my newly polished 2nd dimension in the 2nd game. After throwing a great (for me) first game of 202, I made the mistake of not switching to the 2nd dimension in time. Thankfully I ended the second game with my 2nd dimension for a sloppy 158. This is where I typically struggle, because the lanes are dry and squirly by the third game. I came back with the 2nd dimension for a 201 finish.

Thanks for the help, guys. I seem to learn valuable lessons every week. This week: surface finishing and not to be afraid of a ball change in the middle of a bad game.


Experience and Versatility are your best weapons.  The experience you gain when you experiment with the same ball is invaluable.  I would rather have 4 different releases and 2 balls rather than 1 release and a ball for every condition I come across.  The grip that I have on my Rogue is absolutely perfect and because I'm comfortable with that grip I can change the surface and my hand position and play different lines or conditions which is much better than guessing which ball to throw.  

Glad to hear everything worked out for you.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: eltaco on November 12, 2009, 10:20:12 AM
That's a good point and I agree with it in theory. However, I'm still not flawless with one release, so I'm trying to focus on that at the moment. This is my first season back bowling in 8 years, so it will take a while to get comfortable.

At this point, I would rather get my release perfected (or close to it) before introducing attempts at new hand and release positions.

The flip side of the coin is this: One ball can be very versatile for a range of conditions. Using the same release and altering the line can prove very functional. At this point, I'm more comfortable moving my line than altering my release. I'd like to get strong in all of these areas, but I need to work up to it from my current skill level.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: CHawk15 on November 12, 2009, 01:26:34 PM
I know this is a Storm forum, but another option based on what I've read is to try a Mars (Roto Grip)  That's probably you're best bet, if that doesn't tame it down, it's urethane time.  

If the reactive balls are flying off the spot as you describe, using a Natural shouldn't be any problem for you.  If I were you, I'd try a Mars first.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: tc300 on November 12, 2009, 02:38:28 PM
i would still get some ufo polish.... it makes a HUGE difference on the backend!
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: ecc0_9879 on November 12, 2009, 02:48:56 PM
ogre urethane
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: charlest on November 12, 2009, 05:56:56 PM
quote:
Forgive my lack of understanding I really haven't played with surface prep a lot.

I thought
More polish = longer roll, snappier backend
Less polish = earlier roll, more overall hook

I assumed I'd want to stay away from more polish and go towards an abralon if anything... perhaps I'm mistaken?


With normal polishes, yes, you  are mostly right.
Also, aas noodlesjester has suggested, the forst response should be to sand your surface finer than the stock surface, then add/apply normal polish.

The surface on the 2nd Dim is 1500 grit US. Abralon is FEPA graded. 1500 grit US = 3000 grit FEPA = P3000 grit. P4000 grit Abralon (= 4000 grit FEPA) is slightly finer than the stock P3000 grit (3000 grit FEPA).

But UFO is one of those special polishes that reduces the overall hook AND reduces the backend while increasing length. So adding UFO will reduce the hook even more than P4000 grit and you can square up even more.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: n00dlejester on November 12, 2009, 06:17:29 PM
quote:
n00dlejester,

I went with your advice and did 4000 abralon and polish before league last night... HUGE difference. I went with my Power Bolt to start things off, expecting to switch to my newly polished 2nd dimension in the 2nd game. After throwing a great (for me) first game of 202, I made the mistake of not switching to the 2nd dimension in time. Thankfully I ended the second game with my 2nd dimension for a sloppy 158. This is where I typically struggle, because the lanes are dry and squirly by the third game. I came back with the 2nd dimension for a 201 finish.

Thanks for the help, guys. I seem to learn valuable lessons every week. This week: surface finishing and not to be afraid of a ball change in the middle of a bad game.


Hey eltaco,

Very nice bounce back!  And glad to hear we were able to help.  

I agree about the release thing.  I myself worked for a long time to get good one release.  I literally just started working on a second release maybe a month ago.  Get smooth with one release, get it to second nature, then move on.  

I hope you keep working hard and kick more azz
--------------------
Proud Supporter of Rob Stone
Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: tdub36tjt on November 12, 2009, 07:56:16 PM
Something that has helped me get more consistent with my releases even though they are still a work in progress is using different finger positions while holding the ball. For instance, when I need more axis rotation I tuck my pinky when less I untuck it and even less I spread it further from my ring finger or bring my index finger in closer to the middle. Just something that helped me......

quote:
quote:
n00dlejester,

I went with your advice and did 4000 abralon and polish before league last night... HUGE difference. I went with my Power Bolt to start things off, expecting to switch to my newly polished 2nd dimension in the 2nd game. After throwing a great (for me) first game of 202, I made the mistake of not switching to the 2nd dimension in time. Thankfully I ended the second game with my 2nd dimension for a sloppy 158. This is where I typically struggle, because the lanes are dry and squirly by the third game. I came back with the 2nd dimension for a 201 finish.

Thanks for the help, guys. I seem to learn valuable lessons every week. This week: surface finishing and not to be afraid of a ball change in the middle of a bad game.


Hey eltaco,

Very nice bounce back!  And glad to hear we were able to help.  

I agree about the release thing.  I myself worked for a long time to get good one release.  I literally just started working on a second release maybe a month ago.  Get smooth with one release, get it to second nature, then move on.  

I hope you keep working hard and kick more azz
--------------------
Proud Supporter of Rob Stone
Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.

Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: n00dlejester on November 12, 2009, 08:31:45 PM
Now that is interesting tdub!

That is something I should look into.  I knew about the tucked pinky helping axis rotation, but not the moved pinky position.  I will try that next time I shoot and need some earlier roll.  Great information, I appreciate you sharing that.
--------------------
Proud Supporter of Rob Stone
Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: eltaco on November 13, 2009, 05:52:57 AM
Excellent information on the various grits. I had no idea that storm's 1500 grit actually was a 3000 abralon. That will be very insightful information for future surface changes.

This site is a wealth of knowledge. I'm a relatively experienced bowler, but reading forums really shows a guy how little he actually knows. It absolutely AMAZES me how many people know diddly about surfacing, drilling, etc. I know of a lot of great bowlers who neglect to learn this information, but I really believe it adds that extra 10% at the end of the day.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: icewall on November 13, 2009, 07:47:38 AM
quote:
The surface on the 2nd Dim is 1500 grit US. Abralon is FEPA graded. 1500 grit US = 3000 grit FEPA = P3000 grit. P4000 grit Abralon (= 4000 grit FEPA) is slightly finer than the stock P3000 grit (3000 grit FEPA).


this is one time that i disagree with you charlest. I have emailed storm a while ago and they have assured me that their stock 1500 grit polish is rated on the P/FEPA scale.

and this makes sense as i resurface all of my friends polished storms balls by sanding with a grey scotchbrite pad (800 us / ~1600 grit P/FEPA) and then use a non abrasive polish.

this also makes more sense to me as 1000 abralon plus polish hooks earlier then storms stock polished surface and 2000 abralon plus polish pushes the ball further then storms stock polished surface.
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tournament average: 219

tweener
medium revs
medium speed

currently throwing
rotogrip rogue cell
lanemasters black pearl
storm t-road pearl
visionary ogre ss, gladiator solid


Edited on 11/13/2009 8:50 AM

Edited on 11/13/2009 8:52 AM
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: n00dlejester on November 13, 2009, 11:02:38 AM
quote:
quote:
The surface on the 2nd Dim is 1500 grit US. Abralon is FEPA graded. 1500 grit US = 3000 grit FEPA = P3000 grit. P4000 grit Abralon (= 4000 grit FEPA) is slightly finer than the stock P3000 grit (3000 grit FEPA).


this is one time that i disagree with you charlest. I have emailed storm a while ago and they have assured me that their stock 1500 grit polish is rated on the P/FEPA scale.

and this makes sense as i resurface all of my friends polished storms balls by sanding with a grey scotchbrite pad (800 us / ~1600 grit P/FEPA) and then use a non abrasive polish.

this also makes more sense to me as 1000 abralon plus polish hooks earlier then storms stock polished surface and 2000 abralon plus polish pushes the ball further then storms stock polished surface.
--------------------
tournament average: 219

tweener
medium revs
medium speed

currently throwing
rotogrip rogue cell
lanemasters black pearl
storm t-road pearl
visionary ogre ss, gladiator solid


Edited on 11/13/2009 8:50 AM

Edited on 11/13/2009 8:52 AM


I don't know what's what as far as the grits go, but I do know that 2000 Abralon + Polish goes a bit longer than Storm's out-of-box surfaces.  It could be the type/amount of polish I use, but that's what I've gotten from my experiences.  I do know that 4000 Abralon + Polish really tames the reaction down


--------------------
Proud Supporter of Rob Stone
Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.
Title: Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
Post by: J_w73 on November 13, 2009, 11:16:03 AM
If the backends are flying I actually use a duller heavier oil smooth hooking ball.. example.. I used my 400 grit rico drilled particle mammoth on the cheatah..it is a heavy oil ball but doesn't snap violently on dry.. nice and smooth.. gave a nice even move on the backend end..

urethane could work as well as it will be more of an even smooth hooking ball throughout the dry..
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180