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Author Topic: DRY back ends... which ball?  (Read 3189 times)

eltaco

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DRY back ends... which ball?
« on: November 10, 2009, 03:25:26 PM »
Well, my arsenal is starting to fill up, and I was feeling pretty good about it until my league altered our shot.

They are now completely stripping the lanes and laying down a med-light pattern... and I simply don't have a ball that's working for me. Unfortunately, my 2nd Dimension is my "weakest" ball, which isn't very weak at all on this pattern. As soon as I hit the dry it takes off. I need something that will be more predictable when it hits the dry, and hopefully give me some area to help my novice inconsistancies.

I'm probably a medium rev stroker player, which is why the 2nd dimension is typically a weaker predicatble ball for me on medium oil or carrydown conditions. I was initially looking towards a Fast, but now that the backends are this dry, I'm positive that would have been a bad move. I'm really considering the Natural, but I don't know what to expect with my medium rev throw. Thoughts, suggestions; all welcome.

 

CHawk15

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #16 on: November 12, 2009, 01:26:34 PM »
I know this is a Storm forum, but another option based on what I've read is to try a Mars (Roto Grip)  That's probably you're best bet, if that doesn't tame it down, it's urethane time.  

If the reactive balls are flying off the spot as you describe, using a Natural shouldn't be any problem for you.  If I were you, I'd try a Mars first.

tc300

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2009, 02:38:28 PM »
i would still get some ufo polish.... it makes a HUGE difference on the backend!

ecc0_9879

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #18 on: November 12, 2009, 02:48:56 PM »
ogre urethane

charlest

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #19 on: November 12, 2009, 05:56:56 PM »
quote:
Forgive my lack of understanding I really haven't played with surface prep a lot.

I thought
More polish = longer roll, snappier backend
Less polish = earlier roll, more overall hook

I assumed I'd want to stay away from more polish and go towards an abralon if anything... perhaps I'm mistaken?


With normal polishes, yes, you  are mostly right.
Also, aas noodlesjester has suggested, the forst response should be to sand your surface finer than the stock surface, then add/apply normal polish.

The surface on the 2nd Dim is 1500 grit US. Abralon is FEPA graded. 1500 grit US = 3000 grit FEPA = P3000 grit. P4000 grit Abralon (= 4000 grit FEPA) is slightly finer than the stock P3000 grit (3000 grit FEPA).

But UFO is one of those special polishes that reduces the overall hook AND reduces the backend while increasing length. So adding UFO will reduce the hook even more than P4000 grit and you can square up even more.
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n00dlejester

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #20 on: November 12, 2009, 06:17:29 PM »
quote:
n00dlejester,

I went with your advice and did 4000 abralon and polish before league last night... HUGE difference. I went with my Power Bolt to start things off, expecting to switch to my newly polished 2nd dimension in the 2nd game. After throwing a great (for me) first game of 202, I made the mistake of not switching to the 2nd dimension in time. Thankfully I ended the second game with my 2nd dimension for a sloppy 158. This is where I typically struggle, because the lanes are dry and squirly by the third game. I came back with the 2nd dimension for a 201 finish.

Thanks for the help, guys. I seem to learn valuable lessons every week. This week: surface finishing and not to be afraid of a ball change in the middle of a bad game.


Hey eltaco,

Very nice bounce back!  And glad to hear we were able to help.  

I agree about the release thing.  I myself worked for a long time to get good one release.  I literally just started working on a second release maybe a month ago.  Get smooth with one release, get it to second nature, then move on.  

I hope you keep working hard and kick more azz
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tdub36tjt

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2009, 07:56:16 PM »
Something that has helped me get more consistent with my releases even though they are still a work in progress is using different finger positions while holding the ball. For instance, when I need more axis rotation I tuck my pinky when less I untuck it and even less I spread it further from my ring finger or bring my index finger in closer to the middle. Just something that helped me......

quote:
quote:
n00dlejester,

I went with your advice and did 4000 abralon and polish before league last night... HUGE difference. I went with my Power Bolt to start things off, expecting to switch to my newly polished 2nd dimension in the 2nd game. After throwing a great (for me) first game of 202, I made the mistake of not switching to the 2nd dimension in time. Thankfully I ended the second game with my 2nd dimension for a sloppy 158. This is where I typically struggle, because the lanes are dry and squirly by the third game. I came back with the 2nd dimension for a 201 finish.

Thanks for the help, guys. I seem to learn valuable lessons every week. This week: surface finishing and not to be afraid of a ball change in the middle of a bad game.


Hey eltaco,

Very nice bounce back!  And glad to hear we were able to help.  

I agree about the release thing.  I myself worked for a long time to get good one release.  I literally just started working on a second release maybe a month ago.  Get smooth with one release, get it to second nature, then move on.  

I hope you keep working hard and kick more azz
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Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.


n00dlejester

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #22 on: November 12, 2009, 08:31:45 PM »
Now that is interesting tdub!

That is something I should look into.  I knew about the tucked pinky helping axis rotation, but not the moved pinky position.  I will try that next time I shoot and need some earlier roll.  Great information, I appreciate you sharing that.
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Proud Supporter of Rob Stone
Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.
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eltaco

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #23 on: November 13, 2009, 05:52:57 AM »
Excellent information on the various grits. I had no idea that storm's 1500 grit actually was a 3000 abralon. That will be very insightful information for future surface changes.

This site is a wealth of knowledge. I'm a relatively experienced bowler, but reading forums really shows a guy how little he actually knows. It absolutely AMAZES me how many people know diddly about surfacing, drilling, etc. I know of a lot of great bowlers who neglect to learn this information, but I really believe it adds that extra 10% at the end of the day.

icewall

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #24 on: November 13, 2009, 07:47:38 AM »
quote:
The surface on the 2nd Dim is 1500 grit US. Abralon is FEPA graded. 1500 grit US = 3000 grit FEPA = P3000 grit. P4000 grit Abralon (= 4000 grit FEPA) is slightly finer than the stock P3000 grit (3000 grit FEPA).


this is one time that i disagree with you charlest. I have emailed storm a while ago and they have assured me that their stock 1500 grit polish is rated on the P/FEPA scale.

and this makes sense as i resurface all of my friends polished storms balls by sanding with a grey scotchbrite pad (800 us / ~1600 grit P/FEPA) and then use a non abrasive polish.

this also makes more sense to me as 1000 abralon plus polish hooks earlier then storms stock polished surface and 2000 abralon plus polish pushes the ball further then storms stock polished surface.
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tournament average: 219

tweener
medium revs
medium speed

currently throwing
rotogrip rogue cell
lanemasters black pearl
storm t-road pearl
visionary ogre ss, gladiator solid


Edited on 11/13/2009 8:50 AM

Edited on 11/13/2009 8:52 AM

n00dlejester

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2009, 11:02:38 AM »
quote:
quote:
The surface on the 2nd Dim is 1500 grit US. Abralon is FEPA graded. 1500 grit US = 3000 grit FEPA = P3000 grit. P4000 grit Abralon (= 4000 grit FEPA) is slightly finer than the stock P3000 grit (3000 grit FEPA).


this is one time that i disagree with you charlest. I have emailed storm a while ago and they have assured me that their stock 1500 grit polish is rated on the P/FEPA scale.

and this makes sense as i resurface all of my friends polished storms balls by sanding with a grey scotchbrite pad (800 us / ~1600 grit P/FEPA) and then use a non abrasive polish.

this also makes more sense to me as 1000 abralon plus polish hooks earlier then storms stock polished surface and 2000 abralon plus polish pushes the ball further then storms stock polished surface.
--------------------
tournament average: 219

tweener
medium revs
medium speed

currently throwing
rotogrip rogue cell
lanemasters black pearl
storm t-road pearl
visionary ogre ss, gladiator solid


Edited on 11/13/2009 8:50 AM

Edited on 11/13/2009 8:52 AM


I don't know what's what as far as the grits go, but I do know that 2000 Abralon + Polish goes a bit longer than Storm's out-of-box surfaces.  It could be the type/amount of polish I use, but that's what I've gotten from my experiences.  I do know that 4000 Abralon + Polish really tames the reaction down


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Obviously, you aren't a golfer.
Some stayed in the foothills, some washed logs like teeth.
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J_w73

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Re: DRY back ends... which ball?
« Reply #26 on: November 13, 2009, 11:16:03 AM »
If the backends are flying I actually use a duller heavier oil smooth hooking ball.. example.. I used my 400 grit rico drilled particle mammoth on the cheatah..it is a heavy oil ball but doesn't snap violently on dry.. nice and smooth.. gave a nice even move on the backend end..

urethane could work as well as it will be more of an even smooth hooking ball throughout the dry..
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