BallReviews
Equipment Boards => Track => Topic started by: track77 on May 07, 2017, 01:24:48 PM
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Recently added the Kinetic Emerald to my arsenal a week ago. Was much more jumpy off the spot than I anticipated. I wanted to hear if anybody has made any surface adjustments to it and what they got out of it. Side note: I had a black pearl kinetic drilled RICO and it was super smooth and continuous. It very rarely jumped off the spot. So it was a bit surprising to see the emerald be so sharp on the back. Trying to recreate the motion of the black pearl, I was thinking surface might help but I wanted to hear some input before I did anything to it
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500/1000 ABRALONⓇ POLISHED W/ POWERHOUSE FACTORY FINISH POLISH
Box finish is made for that reaction. Use 4000 or 2000 to take off the shine and slow down the response to friction.
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Had the same reaction as you describe
dull it up and it will be a good 3 boards stronger and a foot sooner
scuff it up with a 4000 and it will be a bit less responsive
I actually called up Track tech support and spoke to Mitch Beasley last week about this ball.
Mine was drilled pin up (kicking myself for that) should have been pin down
he suggested a small weight hole on my PAP which I did do to calm it down off the friction, should be able to square up a bit more this way
Have not tried it yet.
Will be trying it Tuesday night, I can report back afterwards
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Had the same reaction as you describe
dull it up and it will be a good 3 boards stronger and a foot sooner
scuff it up with a 4000 and it will be a bit less responsive
I actually called up Track tech support and spoke to Mitch Beasley last week about this ball.
Mine was drilled pin up (kicking myself for that) should have been pin down
he suggested a small weight hole on my PAP which I did do to calm it down off the friction, should be able to square up a bit more this way
Have not tried it yet.
Will be trying it Tuesday night, I can report back afterwards
I thought weight hole on the PAP was a type 2 (P2) weight hole, neutral in its effects?
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Had the same reaction as you describe
dull it up and it will be a good 3 boards stronger and a foot sooner
scuff it up with a 4000 and it will be a bit less responsive
I actually called up Track tech support and spoke to Mitch Beasley last week about this ball.
Mine was drilled pin up (kicking myself for that) should have been pin down
he suggested a small weight hole on my PAP which I did do to calm it down off the friction, should be able to square up a bit more this way
Have not tried it yet.
Will be trying it Tuesday night, I can report back afterwards
I thought weight hole on the PAP was a type 2 (P2) weight hole, neutral in its effects?
I'm guessing since the intermediate diff is .005, the hole on the pap will not do much to the flare, but will pull the mb towards the Val.
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As everyone is saying, add some surface. I would start with a higher grit and go down as needed. Mine was more angular than I thought. I knew it was gonna pop some but I had overunder with it. I tried different surfaces and when I found the right one to match me, ball really changed.
The ball is really good for the burn with how clean it is. I typically don't use this ball early ever. I found that the more friction there is the better this ball is. When there is oil in the fronts this ball will skid for a long time.
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I think it's interesting that I've seen a lot of people saying the Kinetic is more angular than they were expecting. I had a 505c2 and that ball was one of the most angular I've had
Just scuff the surface with a 3000 or 4000 pad, if that doesn't work I'd go with 2000
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2 things:
1. Everyone has their own interpretation of what angular means.
To me, the Kinetic Emerald is not that angular for a mid-performance factory shined ball. Compare it to the Code Black and the Kinetic Emerald is not as angular. I have both with the same exact layout and in total they cover the same amount of boards. However, the Code Black goes longer and comes off the spot much more aggressively. On the other end of the spectrum, compare the Kinetic Emerald to something like an IQ Tour Solid, and the Kinetic Emerald is very angular.
Everything is relative. To me the Kinetic Emerald is fairly angular but not overly angular and is a great option for most THS and some harder patterns (there's a reason it's been in Dom Barrett's arsenal for a while now). I've had success with it on USBC White #2 when most of the time the shiny balls stay in the bag.
2. As everyone else in the thread has said, knock the shine off the ball with an Abralon pad. That will get it to read earlier and tame it down on the back end.
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I have adjusted the surface multiple times
From just by hand and on spinner with pads to 500+ polish.
Some of my issue is the place I'm at that has a bunch of early friction
Scuffed surface made it read earlier and then lose to much energy
To shiny and it became sort of over/under
Became very conditional at times
Goal was to be able to straighten my angles and work in softer release
With the weight hole on PAP, it seems more stable downland and retained a bit more energy
I may have to adjust surface again to dial it in