Continuing the highly successful Mixed Breed line, the Mixed Breed Pearl is the perfect choice when the lanes start to break down, and the solid is just too much ball. Using the same core as it’s predecessor, the pearl version will clear the heads and mids easily, while generating more backends and the same continuation through the pocket as the solid.
The Mixed Breed line uses a strong asymmetric core design, boasting an intermediate differential of .015″ and a total differential of .052″. This allows the ball to not only get into an early roll, but provide a strong breakpoint with tremendous continuation.
Color: | Fluorescent Purple/Red Swirls |
Factory Finish: | 1500 Polish |
Hardness: | 74-75 |
RG: | Low (2.52") |
Differential: Flare: | Total Differential - .052" Intermediate Differential - .015" 5-7" flare |
Available Weights: | 13-16# (Mixed Breed core 10-12# (light wt. core) |
Lane Conditions: | Medium |
Coverstock: | Xiphos II Pearl |
Core: | Mixed Breed |
SPECS
Weight: 15.15lbs
Top Weight: 2.25 oz
Pin: 4-1/4
LANE CONDITION
Length: 40ft
Volume: Medium
Type (THS, Sport Pattern etc):THS
COMMENTS
Likes: Clean through the front and continuous on the backend
Dislikes: Not good on heavier volumes
REVIEW
This ball is great for medium to dry lanes. I've tried this on a THS shot during a tournament on second shift team squad where right of 15 was fried, an oil strip 15 to 15 with blended backends. All my other pearls and solids were too aggressive so i deceided to try the MB Pearl which i drilled the night before without throwing any games. The MB Pearl was clean through the front, reved up in the midlane due to the low P3 weight hole and had a nice continuous backend. I started playing 16 to 12 and as time went on i ended up playing 20 to 12. The type of shot is like playing a fall back shot. I can feed it from wet to dry or stay in the oil and the bal would still carry. The key was chasing the oil in and keeping up with the transition since everyone on my team and the opposite team crossing with us was playing the same part of the lane.
LAYOUT
Finding the right layout was a challenge because there are so many possible variations. I talked with Jason Wonders over two weeks until i understood the dynamics of the ball along with what i wanted this ball for. Since this was a Z Spin
type ball, it has to treated completely different. If anyone remembers the Hammer No Mercy, this is the way the Mixed Breed should be drilled but since the pin, cg and intermediiate mass bias was all inline i had to go with an alternate layout. To find the actual MB like the typical Y Spin assymetrical balls out there on the market, you first take the "prosect" and put the "0" at the top of the pin, then run the middle rib all the way down towards the "V" marking. Then the two opposite ribs at the ends of the prosect is 6-3/4 inches from the "V" which is the actual mass bias. You would normally put the "V" 2 to 2-1/2 inches left thumb in the bowlers track which would then put the MB 4 inches right of thumb for righties and 4 inches left for lefties. To get a more defined reaction you would use the Mo Pinel Gradient Line concept. Placing the weight hole in the right location is critical. For me, i had to put the "V" 4 inches right of thumb so the MB would end up 2-3/4 inches left of thumb. I kept the pin above my ring which is 5 inches from my pap. To get the actual MB to be right of my thumb, i drilled a weight hole in the P3 location which is 2.5 right and 1 inch above thumb. I used a 7/8 drill bit, and pitched it away to avoid contact with my thumb. I drilled it 2-1/2 inches deep and drilled my fingers 2-3/4 deep. The ending static weights were 7/8 side and 5/8 finger. This layout changed this ball from a weaker pearl to a more stronger one.
PICTURES AND/OR VIDEOS
Edited on 2/1/2012 at 4:35 PM
LANE CONDITION
Volume: heavy
Type (THS, Sport Pattern etc): very wet \ dry THS on old wood lanes
Likes: Having drilled the Solid a bit weaker i went extreme on the pearl (see picture below), and couldnt be happier. Warning if you do not have enough oil up front this layout may not be the greatest idea!! The pearl glided through the heavy fronts then made a strong strong move on the back end. Carry was excellent and the ball reacted favorable to hand position changes.
Drilling: as everyone knows these balls are Z spinners and to avoid a lengthy explaination of how to drill a Z spin ill summerize. Put ball on determinator ... spin both sides to get the left and right Z axis... drill ball. ( you can use a prosect to get the axis points also )
In a nutshell the closer you move the left Z axis (right if your a lefty) towards your thumb hole the stronger the ball reaction will be. You have to be careful because if you make it too strong and you do not have enough head oil it will flare way to early and hit very weak.
What i suggest is if you are using the DA method measure your drill angle off the Z mark to the pin and use drilling angles of 60 - 100. I know that your not supposed to go over 90 but for these balls 100 even 110 will be ok. Just watch the Statics as you move the Z axis towards the thumb.
I had to increase my val angle to 40 from 30 to keep the finger weight in check. Had to add a very small hole 1" below the midline on the VAL to get the side weight legal. ( picture linked does not show the weight hole as it was added later)
So using the DA method of (Zmark to pin) my layout would be 60 x 4 x 40
Dislikes: none
Edited on 2/14/2012 at 3:57 PM
Edited on 3/15/2012 at 12:11 PM