Author Topic: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling (Read 1270 times)

J_w73 · « **on:** September 01, 2009, 09:53:35 AM »

I have a visionary slate blue gargoyle that has a 6"pin to pap with the pin above the fingers. It is highly polished and has delayed reaction on it..I use it for dry lanes and 10 pins.. It seems to snap too hard on the back when it gets to the dry and I have missed too many 10 pins since I got this ball.
I'm thinking about going back to plastic but like the 2 balls in 1 if I can get this ball to work. I want the ball to go straight and still work for dry.. what would the difference be if I put the near my PAP. Should that eliminate the snap on the backend??? Will the ball take off too early for me.. or probably not if there is any oil..?? What will be the different look on dry..??
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 215 / 205,PBA Xperience ave180

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #1 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:20:52 AM »

Which ball do you want to drill pin axis? If it is a standard pancake polyester, it does not matter much - bets bet is IMHO a simple label drilling, because with a pin axis setup you shift the top weight to one side, and it might even need a balance hole?

If the ball has a core, a pin axis setup (or anything close to it, say pin at 2") will make it roll VERY early. Nothing for dry conditions, and such a ball easily lacks hitting power. It is a good and special option for ridden lanes and carrydown, though. Could work on a ball for spares, but I'd rather invest some bucks into a polyester ball.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

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J_w73 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:04:29 AM »

I want to redrill the slate blue with a pin axis.. I imagine that it will take the snap out of the backend .. but it may hook too early and too much for 10 pins.
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

J_Mac · « **Reply #3 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:12:02 AM »

Personally, I'd just take it to 2000 abralon to kill the back end motion.

I prefer urethane as a spare ball myself and used a SBG as a spare/dry lane ball up until I dropped to 14#. Now I'm using a Red Pearl Claw Hammer and think I need to cut the polish off of it so it's not driving through the 3 pin on the 3-10 split.

Pin on or near axis will get the ball into it's stable roll phase as quickly as possible, but on true dry lanes I would think that it would likely be DOA if you don't have more speed than revs.

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #4 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:20:09 AM »

quote:
I want to redrill the slate blue with a pin axis.. I imagine that it will take the snap out of the backend .. but it may hook too early and too much for 10 pins.

It will definitively kill the back end - but if you release the ball with some side rotation, it will hardly prevent a curve?
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

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J_w73 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 02, 2009, 11:24:56 AM »

quote:
Personally, I'd just take it to 2000 abralon to kill the back end motion.

so you are saying to go to 2000 do make it duller and burn up a bit??
cause I have taken it to 3500 grit polish , with delayed reaction, and wax and it is still too much on the backend.
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

J_Mac · « **Reply #6 on:** September 02, 2009, 12:00:12 PM »

What's the harm in trying a cover modification first before completely redrilling it?
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If you were both cross-eyed and dyslexic, would you see okay?

Jesse James · « **Reply #7 on:** September 02, 2009, 12:15:10 PM »

quote:
Pin on or near axis will get the ball into it's stable roll phase as quickly as possible, but on true dry lanes I would think that it would likely be DOA if you don't have more speed than revs.

I agree with J Mac on this. Pin axis will definitely take the snap out, but will force you to make physical changes rolling/throwing the ball, in order to make up for the ball's lack of H.I.T. on the backend. It also makes that ball rather condition specific.

Surface change would be the better route to take,(duller) and use a high pin layout with a small buffer.
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Duct tape is like 'The Force'. It has a light side and a dark side, but it still holds the universe together.

Some days you're the bug some days you're the windshield.

Edited on 9/2/2009 12:16 PM

J_w73 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 02, 2009, 12:18:45 PM »

quote:
What's the harm in trying a cover modification first before completely redrilling it?
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If you were both cross-eyed and dyslexic, would you see okay?

nothing.. I was just trying to confirm the reasoning behind your suggestion ... go to 2000 (duller) for the ball to burn up a bit.
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

Author Topic: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling (Read 1270 times)

J_w73

Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

dizzyfugu

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

J_w73

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

J_Mac

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

dizzyfugu

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

J_w73

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

J_Mac

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

Jesse James

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling

J_w73

Re: Long pin to PAP vs Pin on PAP drilling