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Author Topic: Slate Blue Gargoyle Surface Question  (Read 760 times)

Trackoholic

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Slate Blue Gargoyle Surface Question
« on: June 10, 2008, 03:04:26 PM »
I drilled this 15#er up 5X4.  Out of box it was very over under.  SKID in oil and JUMP/Hook set on dry.  Sanded it to 500 and it was way too strong for a THS.  After trying it in practice before league I took it to the pro shop and they had a hard time polishing it over the 500.  Put it in the machine for 4 mins and we got a little sheen over the 500.  This still gave me a very strong hook but it was smooth, not snappy.  I was able to find the pocket moving way left and more tilt.  I'm going to try to polish this urethane on my spinner, probably with Finnesse it or Black Magic, or maybe I'll give the Snake oil a try.  I know urethanes are tough to polish and I might have to take it up to 1000 or 2000.  I wanted this ball for dryer, used conditions.  For those of you who have tried this ball with different surfaces, what do you prefer and for what lane condition, or whats the favorite dry lane setup?  PS I just ran out of Beans and I know his polish gives an easy shine but I'm going to try some more reasonably priced products unless they wont do the job.

 

charlest

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Re: Slate Blue Gargoyle Surface Question
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2008, 04:39:00 AM »
I wonder if you're not trying to use the ball on too much oil. I've used this ball a bit, mainly on light to medium-light oil. Mine is drilled roughly 4.5x4, but pin is above & right of the ring finger, quite unusual for me, but it's still urethane and it needs some help in the length department.

Anyway, I've never seen over/under with this ball, unless I was trying to play the oil line. Being pearl urethane, I think this ball needs to see definite dry, even though it doesn't get resin-like length.

My 2 cents:
I admit I have not tried to change the 1500 grit polished coverstock surface it's too good the way it is, for me. But it is a HARD coverstock, as most urethanes are. If I could suggest something, if you're getting over/under (1. try not to play the oil line), sand it to about 600 - 800 grit, then apply something like Resurrection or Clean and Sheen to smooth the sanding lines (on urethane this is advisable), then apply a non-abrasive polish like Snake OIl or Brunswick's High Gloss polish. This will keep that rougher undercoating and the polish will, should, still give you length.
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Edited on 6/11/2008 4:40 AM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

dizzyfugu

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Re: Slate Blue Gargoyle Surface Question
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2008, 10:27:22 AM »
Mine is drilled stacked leverage, very strong and rolly, but it does not handle oil well at all. I found that it even creates its own carrydown when the head area is fresh and juicy.

But: I found that being aggressive and putting revs to it stabilizes the ball very well and improves the finish, even with some oil down the lane. Getting weak and fluffing it sacrifices much potential.

Anyway, the hard and non-porous surface makes the ball skid on any little oil - that makes it so effective on late lanes. As long as you have some oil film, the ball works just fine.

You might also contact the user directdrill via PM, I am not sure if he is still around - he had issues with his SBG, too, we discussed the topic and I suggested a sheen surface to improve stability and "bite". He tried it with a 2.000 Abralon surface - with much success, if I remember correctly.

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Trackoholic

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Re: Slate Blue Gargoyle Surface Question
« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2008, 06:58:51 PM »
Charlest, I have clean'n'smooth, reserection, and 3m rubbing compound.  I'll try one of these.  As far as gritless polishes I have finess it 2, Magic Shine and Black Magic, and snake oil.  Is any combination recommended.  I would like to see more length with a smooth backend.  Thanks