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Author Topic: Surface on the Dirty Look  (Read 2225 times)

PowrKoil17

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  • HG: 265 HS: 659 HA: 172
Surface on the Dirty Look
« on: December 22, 2012, 09:27:06 AM »
What is the OOB finish for the Dirty Look? The ball description only says polished.
My Arsenal                     Son's Arsenal (HG 267, HS 651, HA 177)
Black Hammer(Faball)    Red Zone
Ogre SS                          Mission 2.0
Dirty Look                      Evil Siege                      
Nexus                             C System 2.5
C System 2.5

 

iamone78

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Re: Surface on the Dirty Look
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2012, 10:52:44 AM »
Typically when they list the pearl surface as polished, its usually the same surface grit as the solid. So, I would have to say its the same as the Look at a "T" pad (~4000). I wish they would list the surface grit on their pearls. Although there have been some exceptions to this, when in doubt, a quick email to 900 Global will easily clear up any questions.
H. S.
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KMUMPS

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Re: Surface on the Dirty Look
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2012, 11:37:41 AM »
I have found it virtually impossible to reproduce a polished factory finish from 900 Global. When I drill anything polished from them I change the surface before I throw the ball. This way when I find where I like it at I can reproduce the surface. In the past when I failed to change the surface first I found that I loved how the ball rolled but when I needed to resurface the ball I was not able to get that reaction back. Global uses both sanding pads as well as different compounds to surface a polished ball. Without knowing what compounds they use it is just a crap shoot when trying to match the factory finish.

charlest

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Re: Surface on the Dirty Look
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2012, 07:29:30 PM »
While my personal, polished, NIB ball surface theory is much in line with KMUMPS's theory (put the finish on the ball you can easily replicate before ever using it),
most polished balls from the San Antonio plant (including old Columbia, AMF, and Track balls) can usually be fairly closely replicated by doing a 500/1000/2000 sanding followed by a medium application of an abrasive polish, like Brunswick's Factory Finish High Gloss polish or Storm's Xtra Shine polish.

I usually find such a finish too skid/flip for many of their balls, depending on the drilling, of course. I much prefer a P1500 or P2000 grit sanding followed by a light spinner polish with a non-abrasive polish like Valentino's Sake Oil.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BWDavy

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Re: Surface on the Dirty Look
« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2012, 11:23:02 PM »
I have found it virtually impossible to reproduce a polished factory finish from 900 Global. When I drill anything polished from them I change the surface before I throw the ball. This way when I find where I like it at I can reproduce the surface. In the past when I failed to change the surface first I found that I loved how the ball rolled but when I needed to resurface the ball I was not able to get that reaction back. Global uses both sanding pads as well as different compounds to surface a polished ball. Without knowing what compounds they use it is just a crap shoot when trying to match the factory finish.

Try this link.  I have found it to be a great help in restoring 900G balls to factory finish

http://www.900global.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=168

Works a treat.