That's sad - I'd be excited if someone I was coaching got better than me! Then (s)he could likely help me in return.
For long oil, I recommend a ball that is going to "rev up" quickly to promote an earlier roll/hook. Length is nice, but the pattern we're talking about here is going to give us length - and from what you've indicated, too much length. Increasing the strength of the back end isn't going to be much help (not trying to discredit Ernie McCracken here). A ball set up for length is going to reach the end of the oil and give you more length yet, probably another 4 or 5 feet (at least). We don't want a ball that is going to break into the pocket at 48-50 feet from the eight board. That is too much angle and will produce ringing corner pins, 7-10's and 2-10 (righties) or 3-7 (lefties) combinations. What will work better is a ball that's ready to move as soon as it reaches the end of the oil and break to the pocket at 42 feet from the eight board. Much better angle.
Assuming that you (snowman) have about an average axis tilt/PAP (roughly 5 inches over and a half inch up) your balls are drilled for above average length, average flare, and almost maximum flip. Your Fear Factor and XXX-Factor are low and lowish (respectively) in the RG area and low-RG promotes and earlier hook/roll so that is good news. The bad news is that both are drilled such that the weight block starts tumbling more end-over-end, which uses the higher-RG portion of the core. Both balls also have fairly strong coverstocks which also promote earlier hook/roll. There are stronger covers out there, however.
So what are our options? I would suggest one of two different approaches. For either approach, you can either redo one of the balls you have or purchase a new one. If you're going to use one of the balls you have, I'd suggest going with the Fear Factor. It has a lower RG and should have a stronger shell than the XXX-Factor. If you're going to purchase a new (or used-but-new-to-you) ball, you'll want to look for an aggressive coverstock - likely a particle - with a low-RG, medium-differential core. I'm not partial to a particular ball here. Sure, the super carbide would fit the bill, so would a Killer Instinct Sanded, V2 Sanded, Diesel Particle, Animal, Ultimate Inferno, Anomaly, etc. Just remember, low-RG, agressive cover.
Here are the two layouts I would suggest - either should work, but one or the other is likely better suited to your style as well as the ball you choose. Of course, with either one, you can polish or sand the ball to tweak the reaction.
Layout #1: Near-Axis - early roll with flare
Here, we'll place the pin an 1 1/2 inch from your positive axis point (PAP). The CG should be towards your grip center, but down towards the thumb hole to give some added thumb weight. You may need a weight hole on your PAP to bring the ball back to legal static weight. This should get your mass bias close to if not on your track. What we've effectively done is lay the weight block almost completely on its side. This means we'll be using the low-RG portion of the core and generating a small amount of flare. The ball will want to turn early and be ready to move, not continue skidding, when you hit the end of the oil and make a hard arc to the pocket. The ball will flare (present a clean surface to "grab" the lane) some which will help the ball start turning in the oil. This will be a little less hook than layout #2 below, but it will hook earlier.
Layout #2: 10:30 Max flare
Here, we'll place the pin 3 3/8 inches from your PAP (for maximum flare) on line from your PAP to the ring finger hole, or just below the line. Swing the CG around so that it is on line between your pin and PAP. This should give you roughly a 10:30 layout (if CG is at center of clock face, pin is towards 10:30). Depending on the ball's pin out, you end up with a 3 3/8x2 or 3 3/8x1 or even 3 3/8 with the pin on PAP. Unless the ball has almost no top weight, you'll need a weight hole somewhere close to the PAP to make this ball legal. Get it as close to the PAP as you can since this ball is laid out for max flare. What we've done with this ball is set it up for max flare - almost every revolution of the ball down the lane will have the ball rolling over clean coverstock to "grab" the lane - and set the weight block in such a fashion so that it will make its turn as soon as it possibly can. This will also produce a hard arc, but likely a little later and a little more than layout #1 above.
Personally, I prefer layout #1 above in the conditions you're facing, but that is a product of how I throw the ball and my approach to the game (flat-front patterns typically require a good deal of accuracy and layout #1 is a little tamer and a little more predictable). You may also want to drop a line to LuckyLefty or one of the other drill wizards on this site. There are some other pretty knowledgable people here who may see something I've overlooked.
Remember the option of purchasing a used ball or something off eBay. It is usually better to experiment with less money then spend the money on the real McCoy once you've found out what works best for you.
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Kill the back row
