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Author Topic: killing the cover on a ball.  (Read 9492 times)

J_w73

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killing the cover on a ball.
« on: September 02, 2009, 01:08:32 AM »
I have a ball that I use for 10 pins and dry lanes.. It is still just a little too aggressive and snappy for 10 pins.. I have polished it to high h*ll and put delayed reaction on it.. Is there anything else I can throw on the cover to get it to not hook(other than WD40)...
Would the snake oil or UFO stuff do the job.. I don't know what is better or how they are different.
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16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

 

charlest

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

A_P_K

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #17 on: September 03, 2009, 06:48:01 PM »
Jeff did my Slate, the one he talked about above a few posts.

Even at 4000ab with multiple doses of polish it still hooks more than I need it to.  The only good thing is it at least clears the dryer heads better than before where it would roll as soon as it hit the lanes.

Also, I'm not using the ball on dry, dry, dry lanes either, I'm using mine on light oil and it's too strong.  You might just be better suited buying something weaker even though you may truly not want to.
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The original Pin Krusher


<b>The original Pin Krusher</b>

Bluff

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #18 on: September 03, 2009, 07:31:13 PM »
TURTLE WAX from autozone or auto store

or 3 m finesse it.


Turtle Wax works better

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #19 on: September 04, 2009, 10:49:35 AM »
quote:
Jeff did my Slate, the one he talked about above a few posts.

Even at 4000ab with multiple doses of polish it still hooks more than I need it to.  The only good thing is it at least clears the dryer heads better than before where it would roll as soon as it hit the lanes.

Also, I'm not using the ball on dry, dry, dry lanes either, I'm using mine on light oil and it's too strong.  You might just be better suited buying something weaker even though you may truly not want to.
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The original Pin Krusher





Is there something weaker than the slate blue that isn't plastic.... or maybe I can go with a plastic with a true core in it..what is the best one of those??
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2009, 10:51:42 AM »
quote:
TURTLE WAX from autozone or auto store

or 3 m finesse it.


Turtle Wax works better


I was going to try one of the polish kings at the local center.. That may do something as well.  I think whatever they use in those has some wax in it.. atleast it smells like it.
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

dicnic

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2009, 10:55:45 AM »
Wouldn't it be easier to learn how to throw a bowling ball straight?
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jbuzz31

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2009, 11:00:26 AM »
quote:
TURTLE WAX from autozone or auto store

or 3 m finesse it.


Turtle Wax works better


I used to use rain-x on my  blue dot . worked pretty good too. just gotta put it on every 3 weeks or so.
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Ive Eaten From The Insane Root That Imprisons Reason

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2009, 11:08:09 AM »
quote:
Wouldn't it be easier to learn how to throw a bowling ball straight?
--------------------

Never take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night.




I can do that.. but if I don't have to why do it?  I can strike a lot using a house ball too so why buy multiple balls and have them drilled to fit my hand.
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

charlest

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2009, 11:26:51 AM »
quote:
quote:
Jeff did my Slate, the one he talked about above a few posts.

Even at 4000ab with multiple doses of polish it still hooks more than I need it to.  The only good thing is it at least clears the dryer heads better than before where it would roll as soon as it hit the lanes.

Also, I'm not using the ball on dry, dry, dry lanes either, I'm using mine on light oil and it's too strong.  You might just be better suited buying something weaker even though you may truly not want to.
--------------------
The original Pin Krusher



Is there something weaker than the slate blue that isn't plastic.... or maybe I can go with a plastic with a true core in it..what is the best one of those??
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180




The Ogre Urethane is at least a whole degree weaker than the Slate Blue. It will handle some very dry conditions.

There's always the Lane#1 XXXl: polyester with a mild diamond core.

I prefer the OU myself, if I had to get one. Fortunately I have its predessor, the Glowing Amulet.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 9/4/2009 11:29 AM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2009, 02:27:47 PM »
[/quote]

The Ogre Urethane is at least a whole degree weaker than the Slate Blue. It will handle some very dry conditions.

There's always the Lane#1 XXXl: polyester with a mild diamond core.

I prefer the OU myself, if I had to get one. Fortunately I have its predessor, the Glowing Amulet.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

what makes the ogre urethane weaker than the slate blue.. being they are both urethane.. core difference??
Does the glowing amulet hit and carry being plastic with a core??
Edited on 9/4/2009 11:29 AM[/quote]
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180



Edited on 9/4/2009 2:29 PM

Edited on 9/4/2009 2:40 PM

Edited on 9/4/2009 2:55 PM
375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #26 on: September 04, 2009, 02:50:58 PM »
quote:
The solution isn't in polishing the ball or making the ball go longer.  The solution is throwing the ball harder or throwing it straighter.  You lacking in one or the other department.   Straight is straight, no matter what the ball is made of.  Watch Norm Duke shoot spares on 5 different lane conditions using the same reactive resin ball.  I watched him once in Detroit. shoot spares using whatever reactive ball he picked up from the rack.  One frame it was a 2nd Dimension, then a Hy Road then he was using a Virtual Gravity shooting his spares.  

They all went dead on a close line straight.


I can do the same with a pretty good degree of accuracy .. but If I can have a ball that will give me a larger margin of error .. or take the "me not having the right hand adjustment".. why not do that..??
Other than the advertising.. why don't all the pros just keep using the same ball for all their spares and flatten their hand out and throw it straight..??
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #27 on: September 04, 2009, 03:04:24 PM »
quote:
The answer is do you want to make the spare or do you not want to make the spare.  If your not making spares and saying it's the ball that's hooking too much than you need to make an adjustment with the way you attempt to make the spare.  If your adjustments on the balls surface are not working, than it's obvious you need to make some other kind of adjustment or you can just keep missing them and blaming the ball.

It's not to coverstock of the ball that's causing your sharp back end reaction on 10 pins, it's the way you go about shooting them.  It's at the point where the ball is not the fault, but the bowlers attempt at it.

If the urethane ball is hooking, your not throwing it straight this not giving you that greater margin of error your looking for.  Using your hook or modified hook ball release is reducing your margin for error not increasing it.  

The ball itself does not create the margin of error.  It's the execution of the proper angle to the 10 pin, and the ability to have the ball go straight at the pin on that angle with the proper release technique.

Edited on 9/4/2009 2:59 PM
'

jesus christ.. I already admitted that it is me..

but your argument is ignorant.. of course if you throw the ball perfect you will get a perfect result.. but even professionals use a plastic less reactive/hooking ball for some reason... they must see some benefit as well

The point of the post wasn't to argue about how much I suck at not being able to flatten my release.  I was just looking to see what I could do to the ball to reduce the backend hook.
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180

375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #28 on: September 04, 2009, 03:23:02 PM »
quote:
And like I said, it's not the arrow..it's the Indian.   Throw the damn thing straighter and there is your answer.

It's already polished to incredible amounts.  If's still hooking your answer isn't the polish or the ball...it's the bowler.  Fix the bowler not the ball and you will make more 10 pins.

There is NOTHING more you can do to the ball...throw it in the luster king if it works at your center for about an hour.  

Get a plastic ball...

Put up, shut up and make more spares....look at the problem and correct it.


I was just looking for other things to try.. like suggested.. mabe dulling it a bit may make the ball burn up a bit and actually be less snappy on the backend..
or another product that will work on the cover..
Thanks to everyone for the help..

No thanks to you for being Mr. Obvious. Not everyone is as great as you..

Being as great as you are,I guess you must never use a plastic ball on spares
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180



Edited on 9/4/2009 3:43 PM
375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT

charlest

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #29 on: September 04, 2009, 03:56:08 PM »
quote:
quote:

The Ogre Urethane is at least a whole degree weaker than the Slate Blue. It will handle some very dry conditions.

There's always the Lane#1 XXXl: polyester with a mild diamond core.

I prefer the OU myself, if I had to get one. Fortunately I have its predessor, the Glowing Amulet.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."



what makes the ogre urethane weaker than the slate blue.. being they are both urethane.. core difference??
Does the glowing amulet hit and carry being plastic with a core??
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180



There are a variety of urethanes, just like resins, just not as many.

The Ogre Urethane (and the Glowing Amulet) are both hard solid urethanes. Yes, the Ogre's core has a high RG and a lower flare than the Slate Blue, but it's just a weaker (less friction, therefore less aggressive) coverstock than the Slate Blue. Depending on drilling and your "hand", you'll be able to go much straighter with it (or the Glowing Amulet, not a plastic ball) than with the Slate Blue.

You were probably thinking of the Infra-Red Amulet. That was a plastic/polyester ball with a real core.
http://www.visionarybowling.com/ball_amu.html
The Glowing AMulet is/was a hard urethane:
http://www.visionarybowling.com/ball_glowingamulet.html

I had had a GA about 7 years ago. On dry lanes, it hit as hard as any resin, and I was able to use just a slight swing with it. My first series with it, cold out of the box, was 675. and it was used and redrilled. Sorry I got rid of it. I now have a new used one.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 9/4/2009 3:58 PM
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

J_w73

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Re: killing the cover on a ball.
« Reply #30 on: September 04, 2009, 04:00:25 PM »
[quote
There are a variety of urethanes, just like resins, just not as many.

The Ogre Urethane (and the Glowing Amulet) are both hard solid urethanes. Yes, the Ogre's core has a high RG and a lower flare than the Slate Blue, but it's just a weaker (less friction, therefore less aggressive) coverstock than the Slate Blue. Depending on drilling and your "hand", you'll be able to go much straighter with it (or the Glowing Amulet, not a plastic ball) than with the Slate Blue.

You were probably thinking of the Infra-Red Amulet. That was a plastic/polyester ball with a real core.
http://www.visionarybowling.com/ball_amu.html
The Glowing AMulet is/was a hard urethane:
http://www.visionarybowling.com/ball_glowingamulet.html

I had had a GA about 7 years ago. On dry lanes, it hit as hard as any resin, and I was able to use just a slight swing with it. My first series with it, cold out of the box, was 675. and it was used and redrilled. Sorry I got rid of it. I now have a new used one.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 9/4/2009 3:58 PM[/quote]

thanks for the info.. I was thinking about the red amulet..

--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience ave180



Edited on 9/4/2009 4:02 PM
375 RPM, 17-18 MPH, 45+ DEG AXIS ROTATION, 17 DEG TILT