win a ball from Bowling.com

Author Topic: Restoring the polish on a pearl  (Read 25263 times)

akt22

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
Restoring the polish on a pearl
« on: August 05, 2009, 10:51:26 AM »
Silly question,


If you dull a pearl ball with a low grit abralon pad, how do you restore the shine on it?

I did this on a complete nv a while back, to the point I had my proshop do it, which cost me like 40 bucks.  Since then I've been reluctant to play with the surface of my balls.  I know people here love to play with the coverstock, but i want to learn it without making the mistake I did with my complete nv.

 

MI 2 AZ

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8152
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2009, 08:04:25 PM »
Find out from either the manufacturer or some of the knowledgeable bowlers what type of finish or polish is used on the ball you want to refinish.

I don't know about the ball you mentioned, but in response from Visionary on theirs, this is what they had to say:


 
quote:
Hello All,

OK here is how we finish our covers

Wet Sand - 3M wet/dry sandpaper hand sanded on a spinner (most have been 320)

Matte - Scotch Brite Pads hand sanded on a spinner
Burgundy - 400 matte
Green - 600 matte
Light Gray - 1000 matte

Abralon - Abralon pads on a resurfacing machine similar to the Haus. We used 2,000 abralon on the Gladiator Solid and 1,000 Abralon on the Ogre Particle.

Polish - 1500 buffing compound. This is a solid (non wax) buffing compound used on polishing wheels. Our polishing system is would be best described as an industrial sized Lustre King.

Hope this helps,



Roto-Grip has their own methods and this was posted here in another topic:



 
quote:
For our official stance on surface alterations I will include a short essay I’ve written on the subject…

Thank you for contacting us with your concern. As far as ball reaction is concerned, we have several recommendations to maintain ball performance and life, but the primary area of concern is with the surface topography of the ball. As a quick over-view, surface topography in the bowling industry has been measured with specific ‘Ra’ and ‘Rs’ standards. These values directly relate to how aggressive the coverstock is and how much friction the coverstock can generate. The Ra value measures the standard deviations above or below the surface of the ball. For example, a series of high peaks and low valleys would be measured with an extremely high Ra value. Likewise, the Great Plains with a relatively smooth landscape and rolling hills would have a low Ra value. Rs isn’t as important, but by definition is the average distance between each individual peaks.

The reason these numbers are important is because of the correlation between ball reaction and high Ra and Rs values. Essentially, the greater the Ra and Rs number, the more friction the coverstock can generate. The more friction the coverstock can generate, the greater hook potential the ball will have. What happens when a ball dies is the coverstock has lost the surface deviations originally found on the ball from the out of box finish. These deviations (high Ra and Rs numbers) are created in our finishing and rounding process by creating deep grooves, cuts, and scars on the surface of ball. Later, when the ball is finished, these rough surface deviations are smoothed and ‘polished’ but they aren’t completely removed. If you were to then examine the coverstock on a micron level, the steep peaks and valleys would still be on the surface of the ball, but they would be rounded. This creates the type of ball motion where the ball will still skid through the heads and midlanes cleanly, but still have a tremendous amount of friction generation capabilities as the ball enters the buff or exits the pattern.

However, as the ball encounters normal use, these peaks slowly flatten and the valleys collapse. If measured after normal use, the once high Ra and Rs numbers would be much lower than the previous out of box finish. Hence, the ball slowly loses ball reaction with each use. Cleaning the surface will help keep the ball reaction consistent and also break down lane oil, but it isn’t capable of restoring original out of box Ra and Rs values. Luckily, our research has found a fairly simple method to restore the out of box finish.

In order to restore these numbers, abralon pads are recommended for virtually every ball in our current or past production line. The easiest and fastest way to refinish the ball is to use a 360 grit abralon pad on the ball. If the ball is being finished by machine, 60 seconds is usually sufficient whereas other methods may take longer. The whole idea is to thoroughly, cut, scar and groove the surface of the ball with the 360 grit pad. Before finishing the 360 grit, make sure the entire surface of the ball has been evenly cut. If it is done by hand or by a ball spinner, a cross-hatch finish is recommended. For the next stage, very lightly sand the surface with a 500 grit abralon pad. This will lower the Ra and Rs values slightly, but it isn’t going to completely destroy the surface deviations created from the previous stage.

After the ball has been lightly sanded with 500 grit abralon, please skip directly to the original out of box finish. For example a 4000 grit finish, no polish would require using a 360 grit abralon pad, then light application of a 500 abralon pad finally, skip the 1000 and 2000 stages and go directly to the 4000 finish. The 360 and 500 grit abralon pads will reproduce the original deep grooves and cuts from the factory rounding and finishing process setting the foundation for the final finish. Then, by skipping directly to the 4000 grit abralon stage, the surface will be smoothed and ‘polished’ without destroying the surface deviations. This effectively leaves the surface with the high peaks and deep valleys, but they aren’t as sharp or jagged. This should restore the original ball reaction allowing the ball to skid on oil, read the lighter buff areas of the pattern and still have amazing recovery potential on the backend.

For polished balls, reproduce the 360 and 500 grit finish and then apply Storm Step 2 Finishing Compound. This is the exact same finishing compound we use on all of our 1500 grit polished balls. The trick to the polish application is to use less polish and very light pressure. Step 2 Finishing Compound has a resurfacing medium in it that sands the ball while it is being polished over-application of the compound will effectively destroy the same surface deviations that originally gave the ball it’s strong out of box finish.

The key to restoring any finish is deeply cutting the ball with the fresh 360 grit abralon pad and then very lightly applying a 500 grit pad. The same is true of the final step as well. Over-application of the 1000, 2000, or 4000 grit pads can destroy the surface deviations created by the 360 and 500 steps weakening the over-all ball reaction.

Hopefully, if the sanding process has been repeated successfully, the end results will yield a ball with nearly the exact same Ra and Rs values originally found on the out of box finish restoring life back into the ball.
 




--------------------

I am the Sgt Schultz of bowling.
"I know nothing! I see nothing! NOTHING!"
_________________________________________

New to BR? - Please check this:  BR FAQ
_________________________________________
Six decades of league bowling and still learning.

ABC/USBC Lifetime Member since Aug 1995.

MI 2 AZ

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8152
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2009, 08:17:05 PM »
Not a silly question.

You could also ask someone like Charlest or do a search in this forum and read some of the older topics.

That is all done if you want to restore the out of box finish if you liked it.  Some bowlers don't like the OOB finish and have their own preferences on how to finish a ball, usually found through trial and error.  

Personally, I have found some pearls at OOB to skate too much, so I actually like to take some of the shine off of those pearls.  There are a few that work better for me with a very high gloss.  We all have different styles and bowl on different conditions so it's mainly just trying to match up the ball surface with the other variables to get the best results for you.



--------------------

I am the Sgt Schultz of bowling.
"I know nothing! I see nothing! NOTHING!"
_________________________________________

New to BR? - Please check this:  BR FAQ
_________________________________________
Six decades of league bowling and still learning.

ABC/USBC Lifetime Member since Aug 1995.

Strider

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6751
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2009, 09:09:05 PM »
Look at the manufacturers web sites to look for info - you'd be surprised that many are very helpful.

As a very general starting point, 600 grit (US) wet sand (probably 1000 abralon) + polish from the same manufacturer as the ball will normally get you close.  Many of Brunswick's are 400 grit + polish (Rough Buff or High Gloss Polish).  Some balls might be 1000-1500 grit + polish.  Some newer releases are listed as 4000 abralon + polish, but sometimes are a true 500 abralon surface, then a quick shot at 4000, then polish.

Sometimes it's hard to exactly reproduce an out of box reaction, but I've always been able to change surfaces to get a reaction I like.  Many times a highly polished surface is better for shelf appeal than it is in the hands of the average bowler.  Unless you have 500 rpm's, some balls will go way too long before they do much of anything.
--------------------
Penn State Proud

Ron Clifton's Bowling Tip Archive

akt22

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2009, 01:23:55 PM »
Thanks

The reason I ask I preferred that polished surface of my complete nv not only visually but on the lanes as well.  When I sanded the ball with a low grit, it changed the apperance significantly to point it looked like a particle ball.  Adding polish didn't help so I was at a lost on what to do.

Also is it better to sand at low grit and immediately to the preferred grit or in incriments?

leftyinsnellville

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2345
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2009, 01:34:57 PM »
quote:
Also is it better to sand at low grit and immediately to the preferred grit or in incriments?


Read MI 2 AZ's post about the Roto-Grip method.

akt22

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2009, 03:09:16 PM »
Question on rotogrip method:  Do I have to use Storm Step 2 specifically or any brand of polish will do?  I question because sanding at a low grit and using polish is what I did with complete nv and that's what caused the problem in first place.  The only thing that makes sense to me is that Storm Step 2 has to be a special polish if that's the case.

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24523
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2009, 04:06:01 PM »
quote:
Question on rotogrip method:  Do I have to use Storm Step 2 specifically or any brand of polish will do?  I question because sanding at a low grit and using polish is what I did with complete nv and that's what caused the problem in first place.  The only thing that makes sense to me is that Storm Step 2 has to be a special polish if that's the case.


Step 2 is not just a polish. It's a strongly abrasive polish. If you use it on a spinner with a good pressure and good amount of polish for decent amount of time, strong abrasive polishes/compounds like it, and Brunswick's Rough Buff will smooth out some fairly dull balls. Brunswick, in fact, recommends starting with EXTREMELY (for a bowling ball) dull levels, like 220 grit or 320 grit. BUT you must use a spinner for this. You cannot do it by hand.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

akt22

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 141
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2009, 05:45:23 PM »
Charlest

I see, that makes sense.  Is there a big difference between step 2 and powerhouse factory finish, which I did the ball with?  

Also I understand the need for a spinner since I use one myself.

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24523
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2009, 06:29:45 PM »
quote:
Charlest

I see, that makes sense.  Is there a big difference between step 2 and powerhouse factory finish, which I did the ball with?  .


Can't say yet because I haven't done a comparison of them. I would suppose that Step 2 has more abrasive in it than Ebonite's factory polish
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

azus

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1867
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2009, 02:57:25 AM »
I usually goes 500grit abralon, 800-1000 light grey pad, polish Or 2000 grit pad then polish.
Im not looking for the factory finish, just something similar.
--------------------
I like my coffee black, just like my metal.
What would Chuck Norris do?
(\ /)
( . .)
c(')(')
Cute Bunny! copy bunny into sig to help him achieve world domination

machine189

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 176
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2009, 01:10:48 PM »
quote:
Charlest

I see, that makes sense.  Is there a big difference between step 2 and powerhouse factory finish, which I did the ball with?  

Also I understand the need for a spinner since I use one myself.


I used ebonite factory finish on my Virtual energy ball just skates now. i hate that stuff buying storm step 2...but i believe Brunswick high gloss polish has abrasives in it as well
--------------------
Approach the game with no preset agendas and you'll probably come away surprised at your overall efforts.

the pooh

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 615
Re: Restoring the polish on a pearl
« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2009, 08:09:04 AM »
I do believe Storm step 2 is strictly a compound and not a polish. It works that way for me, anyway! You have to go to Step 3 which adds some polish. 1 + 2 are compounds only and work great to get a matte finish of 800 or 1500. You can then leave them as is, or add polish of your choice over them.
--------------------
the pooh
the pooh