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Author Topic: What surface on original danger zone  (Read 5577 times)

gripnrip

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What surface on original danger zone
« on: April 26, 2008, 07:10:59 AM »
What is the grit finish on org danger zone.
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Aloarjr810

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2008, 03:46:15 PM »
checking on bowlingballreviews.com they show the Factory finish only as
"Polished"

Heres from Brunswick
Also heres a link to a pdf of the orginal Danger Zone Sheet

Click Here Zone_Danger_Zone.pdf

Brunswick recommends the following procedures to maintain and restore your Brunswick ball’s reaction characteristics
--Clean your Brunswick ball with Brunswick Remove All or similar ball cleaner after every use to reduce oil absorption.
--If you think your Brunswick ball has lost some of its “Out of the Box” reaction, restore the ball to its original factory finish
listed on the product information sheet. This is especially important for balls that are highly sanded or polished.
Use Brunswick’s Factory Finish High Gloss Polish to restore the original factory finish on highly polished balls. For dull
balls, wet sand with the sandpaper listed on the product information sheet.
--If after restoring the original factory finish you feel your Brunswick ball has still lost some of its hooking action, remove the
oil from the ball by gently warming the ball using either the Revivor or Rejuvenator Pro Shop devices that have been
designed for this purpose. This service is available, for a fee, at many Pro Shops. Brunswick’s testing has shown that by
combining the restoration of the factory finish with oil removal your Brunswick ball can maintain its original “Out of the Box”
reaction for hundreds of games.
Note: Oil soaked balls tend to traction less in the oil and respond less to the dry boards on the lane. If you are matching-up
using an oil soaked ball on wet/dry or broken down lane conditions, removing the oil from the ball will significantly change
your match-up and possibly create undesirable over reaction

Edited on 4/26/2008 3:50 PM

Edited on 4/26/2008 4:08 PM
Aloarjr810
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DON DRAPER

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2008, 03:52:22 PM »
wetsanded 600 grit and two minutes in the lustrekleen machine.

Edited on 4/26/2008 3:52 PM

Aloarjr810

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2008, 04:02:20 PM »
Also heres a link to a pdf of the orginal Danger Zone Sheet

Click Here Zone_Danger_Zone.pdf
Aloarjr810
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charlest

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2008, 06:12:02 PM »
quote:
wetsanded 600 grit and two minutes in the lustrekleen machine.

Edited on 4/26/2008 3:52 PM


Actually the orignal Danger Zone refinishing procedure involved 600 grit sanding plus vigorous application of automotive rubbing compound. I got that info directly from a couple of different Brunswick reps at the time.

Back in 1996/97 when the DZ was in its prime, most Lustre Kleen machines used wax, from the urethane era and not rubbing compounds, as they do nowadays.
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gripnrip

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2008, 07:20:41 PM »
Thanks to everyone for there replies.
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IF MY BALL IS HOOKIN THE LANES OR COOKIN
IF MY BALL IS HOOKIN THE LANES OR COOKIN

DON DRAPER

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2008, 10:55:02 PM »
charlest, i got my info straight from parker bohn III. he spoke at our associations hall of fame banquet back in the late 1990's. either way, if i had to prep one today i would wetsand it 600 grit and then apply rough buff.

charlest

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2008, 07:16:54 AM »
quote:
charlest, i got my info straight from parker bohn III. he spoke at our associations hall of fame banquet back in the late 1990's. either way, if i had to prep one today i would wetsand it 600 grit and then apply rough buff.


I understand. I got mine from the reps at the time. You and I both know about those darned Lustre Kleen machines. Back in the 199oa, I think we all have had a resin ball destroyed by them because the owners hadn't yet switched from wax.

If I had to do it today, I'd use Rough Buff also, BUT I wouldn't put that shiny a finish on DZ today. My last PK 18 solid that came that way, a Bruiser, I smoothed the finish with a 1500 grit Clean and Smooth.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

LuckyLefty

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2008, 07:52:53 AM »
Where I bowl lately many of our best bowlers are still using WAX...oil shortage!

I have found Track Delayed reaction to similar and more stable than the wax!  Which apparently degrades!

Also Finesse seems to work well on these arrid conditions!


REGards,

Luckylefty
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It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

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dizzyfugu

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Re: What surface on original danger zone
« Reply #9 on: April 28, 2008, 08:31:30 AM »
3M 50077 Trizact compound - my favorite weapon. It is very good on 4.-2.000 grit basic surfaces to get a mirror-like surface, but totally clean, tacky and effectively non-polished.

The 3M stuff, on a 1.000-800 grit basis, should yield a smooth, sheen surface with good grip, but finer than a Rough Buff finish (because it is a very coarse compound that IMO only works on truly matte base grits of 400 grit or less).

Just my 2 cents

It is difficult to replicate those "old" finishes - another "mystic" surface is the White Trizact finish on some particle balls like the Eliminator - shiny, but not polished. 4.000 Abralon is way too matte, the 3M stuff might come close, but it is not exactly the same...
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Edited on 4/28/2008 8:34 AM
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