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Author Topic: 2 questions re: top weight  (Read 2013 times)

lefty50

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2 questions re: top weight
« on: February 07, 2008, 09:59:25 PM »
In the old days, when statics mattered, low top weight was always desired for a heavy oil condition.

1. In today's environment, for a speed dominant stroker with trouble in oil, does top weight still matter?
2. If so, what starting top weight would be best?
3. Would 4 oz top be considered too high to drill? If I recall correctly, 3 oz would be about right.
4. Any other considerations re: top weight in today's balls?
Thanks
L50
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LuckyLefty

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2008, 06:06:55 AM »
depends in what forum one is asking the question.

In the Brunswick forum....no.

Over here in this forum I dare say....yes!

Politically incorrect.

REgards,

Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

H Man

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2008, 06:40:57 AM »
I recently had a couple of balls drilled up by Carl Hoffmire, who used to drill on the pro tour. He tells all his clients to order balls with no less than 3.5oz top

shelley

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2008, 07:14:33 AM »
While statics may play little or no role in ball reaction with today's high tech cores and covers, you simply cannot ignore them altogether.  4oz of top weight will limit your drilling options, you will have to keep the CG closer to the grip center to keep the ball legal.  If you have a very short or long pin, real high top weight will really restrict pin placement.

SH

thirtyclean

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2008, 07:21:58 AM »
Never had a problem with the 4 OZ. top weight. An experienced driller can drill the finger holes a little deeper, so that the weight hole would not have to be gigantic. If you use grips, you can definetly get the weight to below legal limits.
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lefty50

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2008, 07:36:27 AM »
Ok, let's get some clarification..

Lucky, when you say "yes" do you mean low top weight is still good for an oily condition? If so, how low shold the starting weight be?

Also, let me be more specific and ask about a 4 inch pin and 3.8 oz top combination in a ball I'm looking at. In that config, could I still drill a pin down between ring and middle with Cg swung out and a weight hole in thumb positive?

Would the top weight, although legal by drilling fingers deeper, be a detriment to use on an oily condition?

Many thanks!
L50
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LuckyLefty

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2008, 07:52:44 AM »
This ball would not be MY first choice for oil.

It would be nice choice if I wanted a dramatic reaction off the dry.

Lower top weight on oil can be helpful.

If you have oil with a defined reaction area high top weights can be used.

If you want the ball to start earlier ...lower starting top weights make it easier I usually look for 2.5 or less...to about 2.

Many standard size sets of grips and slugs take out about 1.5 ounches of material.  Weightholes more.

For lefties on real oil I love the revs leverage drilling particularly if there is dry outside.  Beautiful lefty drilling for very wettish crowned top hats.

REgards,

Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

T-GOD

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Re: 2 questions re: top weight
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2008, 08:33:58 PM »
Yes, top weight matters. Lower top gets the ball into a roll sooner, with usually less snap on the backend. It all depends on the ration of top to side to finger.

A ball with zero side, zero finger/thumb/ and zero top will roll very early and do only what you do to the ball as far as turning it goes.

This is a good combo for heavy oil, as long as you can get the ball through the heads, with either loft, side turn, or oil.

Positive weights (side, finger and top) will usuallu make the ball go longer and finish harder, if it isn't going too long.

Negative side, finger and thumb will get the ball into an earlier roll with less hook at the backend. =:^D