Author Topic: wet/dry (Read 12536 times)

1fife · « **on:** January 08, 2012, 10:44:52 AM »

bowling in a house that has extreme wet dry

what have you used with success

ball type/layout

charlest · « **Reply #1 on:** January 08, 2012, 06:51:50 PM »

As per usual,it depends on the actual amount of oil and the amount of hand you have AND what's been working for you.

I've used anything from a 2000 grit Blue/Green Centaur to a very even reacting particle ball (Lanemasters Counter Strike) to a dull (2000 grit) Ogre Solid.

"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BowlingChat.net

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #2 on:** January 24, 2012, 05:51:19 AM »

Columbia at one time on their website had a post about how to play an extreme wet/dry.

I subsequently talked to them about it and they verified it.

At the time they recommended taking their strongest ball. At that time a Reaction Roll Particle(maybe polishing, I forget). The key to the tip and a big change for me was to aim about 5 boards wide of the oil line. I had always aimed at the oil line or a couple of boards past.

But by aiming aggressively 5 boards wide of the oil line seemed to really help. I did not end up using a Reaction Roll but I mostly uised a Columbia Panic and it worked real nice!

Regards,

Luckylefty

It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

Russell · « **Reply #3 on:** January 24, 2012, 07:50:44 AM »

That is a far too difficult thing for most bowlers to execute. Let's be honest here how many league bowlers do you know that can keep their breakpoint inside of a 4 board area? Even the 220+ bowlers in todays game need at least an arrow downlane to keep it in the pocket. If you miss that area you bring maximum penalty into play (miss inside washout, miss outside in the face). The key is to blend out the wet/dry with surface, and as charlest eluded to, how much and what kind depends on how you throw it.

LuckyLefty wrote on 1/24/2012 6:51 AM:Columbia at one time on their website had a post about how to play an extreme wet/dry.

I subsequently talked to them about it and they verified it.

At the time they recommended taking their strongest ball. At that time a Reaction Roll Particle(maybe polishing, I forget). The key to the tip and a big change for me was to aim about 5 boards wide of the oil line. I had always aimed at the oil line or a couple of boards past.

But by aiming aggressively 5 boards wide of the oil line seemed to really help. I did not end up using a Reaction Roll but I mostly uised a Columbia Panic and it worked real nice!

Regards,

Luckylefty

It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

Little known fact: In Russian "Hope" and "Change" translate to "Tax" and "Spend"

Good Times Good Times · « **Reply #4 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:08:47 AM »

Good stuff here.

I encounter this very often on my Thursday night league, which is on older wood and the carry is rough.

I usually, especially if it's a wet dry THS, go outside with weak equipment and square up a bit. Something like 8 at the arrows to 5 with the right speed and hand. I'm a low tilt, up the back of the ball type player, so getting it into a roll isn't exceptionally tough. Something clean thru the fronts (where there may be some dry due to being outside) that can generate some angle. I use a MoJave (PK 17 cover) and it works well.

But when its something like a super wet dry Chameleon Pattern or something flatter, you just have to make pristine shots and know your equipment and how it matches your game. Bigger moves than normal left/right up/back with transition.

Thats usually my starting point.

GetOffMe10Pin

"Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right"
- Henry Ford

spmcgivern · « **Reply #5 on:** January 24, 2012, 09:12:57 AM »

I think what Lucky was eluding to was when there is a defined left/right wet to dry, you don't want to try to play with that one dry board outside the oil line. Yes, surface is your best option to blend out the wet/dry, but you should also play "into" the dry. Have your line travel into the dry and force the reaction as oppose to trying to make the more difficult shot of just touching the first dry board.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #6 on:** January 24, 2012, 01:38:24 PM »

Hmm,

I reported what Columbia said, used it, it worked and my average went up.

There was no semblance of flat, it was wet and it was" boing" off the outsides.

One could almost hear the ball screeching as it hit the dry! WET/dry.

Regards,

Luckylefty

It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

spmcgivern · « **Reply #7 on:** January 24, 2012, 02:14:16 PM »

It sounds like you threw the ball "into" the dry. If you tried to play at the edge of the pattern and missed left even one board, your ball didn't react. And if you missed right, it checked up early. I think if you play the "check up early" shot on purpose with the right equipment you can still miss a little left and right and be closer than if you tried to play on the oil line.

I hope that makes sense. It does in my peanut brain.

LuckyLefty wrote on 1/24/2012 2:38 PM:
Hmm,

I reported what Columbia said, used it, it worked and my average went up.

There was no semblance of flat, it was wet and it was" boing" off the outsides.

One could almost hear the ball screeching as it hit the dry! WET/dry.

Regards,

Luckylefty

It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #8 on:** January 24, 2012, 05:17:08 PM »

SPC,

Bingo!

5 boards into the dry they said to penetrate, creates a lot of miss area.

Regards,

Luckylefty

It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

Impending Doom · « **Reply #9 on:** January 24, 2012, 05:42:00 PM »

I've used surface and layouts successfully, and found that if its a ths kind of wet/dry, layouts that lay off on the back, or started early and were smooth worked the best. One of my favorite house shots balls was a Track Money with the pin 1 inch from my pap, with the cg 4 inches from my pap. I could throw it right into the dry, and never have it jump.

If that doesn't work for your release, I also had success with strong pins (4-4.5 inches) with the MB past my VAL. Ball would rev hard and set up, and flare lots more.

There's also urethane. Try a natural or hype or avalanche. I have 2 hypes, and just be sure to drill it weak. Its a very strong ball for a urethane. I love my weak one, the strong one is too much for anything I've seen ths wise.

*Inventor of the FIBJAM*

The sky is falling

The end is near

The final warning

The sun disappears.

My arsenal

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67160612@N08/

DON DRAPER · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2012, 06:48:10 PM »

Many times this is easily solved by a change in the surface on the ball. Highly polished reactive bowling balls CAN be tricky on a wet/dry condition. Try scuffing off the polish and wetsanding the ball to a VERY fine grit instead.

jdball299 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 26, 2012, 12:03:20 AM »

My go to setup for wet/dry or houses with a ton of defined friction outside is weaker solid balls with longer pin to pap drillings, pin down with surface or pin up with a little polish and play right on top of the friction line or as close to it as possible.

I have also gotten stronger angular pieces with a little surface and had success keeping the ball inside the friction on the outer boards and playing the friction at the end of the pattern instead of bumping the dry early.....this is what I do when the outside is toast or the above stated doesn't carry well in that house.

"...do or do not, there is no try."

St. Louis USBC Sport Bowling
Best Bowling Pro Shops Inc., St. Louis MO.

tenpinspro · « **Reply #12 on:** January 26, 2012, 01:27:17 AM »

Many good ideas especially with older large or higher volume particle balls. Polishing these pieces will reduce the motion/movement significantly. Typically because the condition or reaction is so over/under (extreme), recommended would be either to use something strong and dull and play the oil line or go to a cover and or layout which is very weak to help offset the o/u. This is so we do not have to change or alter our physical game.

Here are the more common problems as to why I see bowlers struggle on the wet/dry (over/under aka blk/wht)

1) We have a condition that skid/flips

2) We have a ball that skid/flips - (almost all pieces are length, good midlane with continuation)

3) We have a layout that skid/flips - (most customers still ask for the infamous, go long and hook hard layout)

4) We have a physical game where the bowler is slightly rev dominant (and this is enough) in their speed to rev ratio. This is even worse if the axis rotation angle is more then 50 or so degrees because the ball will want to respond off the friction at a very sharp angle.

This is what I call a very uneven score of 4-0. In order to counter this or balance it out some, it would help by reducing one of the 4 variables but even better if we could subtract 2 of these. By doing so, we'd get an even better balance which would then help produce a smoother and more predictable ball reaction on such a violent condition. Hope this helps some...

Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop

Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder

El Presidente of the Legion

Edited by tenpinspro on 1/26/2012 at 2:42 AM

dmonroe814 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 26, 2012, 05:31:15 AM »

I bowled on that condition a few years ago. Had most success with a strong serface ball (Solid Reactive Particle), and just bumping the dry. I was shooting 11-12 out to 8-9. The dropoff was the 10 board. I had to stay behind the ball with heavy roll.

Old Man Still Learning

300's - 3

800's - 3

Hi Avg 218

Cur Ave 214

Former Stroker (Plastic and uerathane)

Tweener-Cranker (Reactive)

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #14 on:** January 26, 2012, 05:57:58 AM »

TenPinsPro,

Great comments about balls, release etc.

Along with the 5 board outside oil line tip I mentioned from Columbia above, as a bowler with a strong axis rotation release(60 to 70 degrees), and being Rev Dominant and speed soft, I suffer on this condition when extreme!

One solution that surprised me right before I left the bounciest shot I ever was on, was the use of a short pin, older style reactive Sapphire zone(with slower reacting PK17), drilled with pin under ring and cg under grip center. This label leverage, slightly flattened the entry angle to get carry which was not present with all other drilling options.

Again used the 5 board outside the oil line tip worked also with the above drilling.

Regards,

Luckylefty

PS thanks Rick!

It takes Courage to have Faith, and Faith to have Courage.

James M. McCurley, New Orleans, Louisiana

Author Topic: wet/dry (Read 12536 times)

1fife

wet/dry

charlest

Re: wet/dry

LuckyLefty

Re: wet/dry

Russell

Re: wet/dry

Good Times Good Times

Re: wet/dry

spmcgivern

Re: wet/dry

LuckyLefty

Re: wet/dry

spmcgivern

Re: wet/dry

LuckyLefty

Re: wet/dry

Impending Doom

Re: wet/dry

DON DRAPER

Re: wet/dry

jdball299

Re: wet/dry

tenpinspro

Re: wet/dry

dmonroe814

Re: wet/dry

LuckyLefty

Re: wet/dry