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Author Topic: Hot Water Bath question  (Read 7485 times)

Juggernaut

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Hot Water Bath question
« on: March 22, 2008, 06:57:06 AM »
After hearing all the coverstock death rumors, and having seen it myself a few times, I decided to go ahead and give my gamebreaker the treatment as it was seeming to slow down in it's reaction.

The ball is at, or around, the 50 games mark, so I anticipated drawing some oil out of it.

Put the hot water in the sink, added the dishwashing liquid, left the ball in for over 15 mins, BUT NOTHING CAME OUT!

The water was still just as clear and there was no oily residue on the ball whatsoever. The temp of the water is around 100-120 degrees ( I live in an apartment complex and that is what they have it set on), is this hot enough?

I mean, if the ball has 50 games on it, and I know the cover soaks up oil really fast, shouldn't I have gotten SOMETHING out of it?


P.S. I used it in league the next night and it is just like it was before the bath. Still hits good, just doesn't finish as strongly as it once did, or so it seems.


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bluerrpilot

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2008, 03:18:06 PM »
It depends on how much cleaning you have done in the meantime. 120 degree water should be fine. If nothing came out, then your good. you also dont need the dishwashing soap. The heat is whats drawing things out.

Ebonite themsleves will also tell you the Gamebreaker, and the NV series will roll better after at least 20 games.
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GuyGood

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2008, 03:46:48 PM »
Hi,

I know this is the ebonite forum but may I ask some general questions to the "hot water bath"-method? (I hope this is also ok to Juggernaut)
I just would like to know, if after several hot water baths, it is just like with heat and bowling balls in general, that the balls are going to soak up the oil faster, the more often you bath them?
And if it is really not necessary to use any kind of detergent/dishwashing soap? Maybe the result is better/worse with dishwashing soap?
Also I would like to know if it makes sense to "seal" the inserts and the thumbhole with tape or something?

Any answers appreciated Thanks

Edited on 3/22/2008 3:47 PM

Juggernaut

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2008, 04:22:22 PM »
bluerrpilot,

  I clean the ball every time I use it, usually within 15 minutes of the end of play.  I always get quite a bit of residue off it, but figured that was just off the surface.

  Maybe that is going to be enough maintenance for this ball and how much it gets used.  I only throw it for 6 games each week, unless someone wants to go throw some practice games.

  I've never had a ball "die" on me yet, just didn't want to take a chance with this one and was doing a "pre-emptive" bathing to help prevent that from happening.
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chatnboy

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2008, 12:02:08 AM »
my total n v has not been baked or bathed since i had it!!!it still gets down the lane and still hits the pocket well.but i did notice recently that it seems to have a slick of oil around the ball.so now it is time to bake or bath this ball...i never had a ball in water but i'm leaning toward that treatment.so what is the proper procedure again concerning this method????mainly how much if any dawn dish soap to use in the concoction????thanks for the replys and thanks for the delightful interaction!!!

NicholasE

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2008, 12:08:00 AM »
If the ball is polished or at a finer grit, then oil doesn't come out easy. If you get your proshop to take it to 400 grit or yourself and then do it, you will get any oil out if there is any. Most of the time if your cleaning the ball 15 min after then not much oil is going to get down in the ball. Make sure your using a clean rag to wipe the ball off during play, if your using the same rag every week without cleaning it then your just putting dirt and oil back on there.

Hope this helps.
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chatnboy

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2008, 12:25:34 AM »
NicholasE my total n v is still at oob finish!!!i have not experiment much with the surfaces of my balls...but really want to start getting into that part of my game now.i'm sure adjusting the surfaces of my balls will increase my average also(meanng i'll carry more by having the right ball surface).right now i average 190+ and looking for a 200 for the upcoming season!!!since i have joined this site...i have learned a tremendous amount of info concernng balls,treatments,advice and drilling.keep up the good work guys...there is someone who appreciate each and every viewpoint and opinion!!!!let's keep it moving and keep it grooving!!!!reppin the first state of DELAWARE!!!!!

NicholasE

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2008, 12:30:29 AM »
Well for the steps you can go to www.morichbowling.com and under the section titled cleaning, it gives all the steps. Should help ya, and to answer your question before you ask, no you don't have to cover the holes, just let the water go right in um.
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Borincano

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2008, 12:39:42 AM »
Juggernaut, use a 5 gallon bucket and do not put soap at the begining in the water. Put the ball in the bucket and fill it with hot water. After 15 minutes you will see the oil floating on the surface of the water. That is when you take a cloth with dish washing liquid and scrub the ball inside the bucket. Then take the ball out to the sink and with the water coming out hot you continue to wash it with soap. Now empty the bucket, put the ball in and pour fresh hot water over it until it is covered. Leave for 20 minutes and you will still see some oil coming out. Use liquid soap to clean once again the oil out of the ball.

elvismat

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2008, 07:17:48 AM »
My friend tried the hot water bath and it didn't work.  He baked it, at 175 degrees for thirty minutes in his oven, on a cookie tray, sitting on a single ball holder, like you use on the alley.  He has 14 honor scores with his NVS, I've seen most of them, the ball didn't die, it actually hooks more after he started baking it than before.  He baked it three times and had the ball since September.  To get some of these honor scores, maybe I should start baking my balls!

Juggernaut

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2008, 09:15:37 AM »
quote:
My friend tried the hot water bath and it didn't work.  He baked it, at 175 degrees for thirty minutes in his oven, on a cookie tray, sitting on a single ball holder, like you use on the alley.  He has 14 honor scores with his NVS, I've seen most of them, the ball didn't die, it actually hooks more after he started baking it than before.  He baked it three times and had the ball since September.  To get some of these honor scores, maybe I should start baking my balls!


  I was told that 140 degrees was the maximum temp to use, otherwise you start bleeding the plasticizers out of the cover, and that ain't good.

  I have the ball at 600 dull currently and figured that would be enough, but maybe not.  If it gets any worse, I may go down to 400 and try the bath with hotter water next time to see if that makes any diffeence.

  Thanks for all the replies.  The input has been very helpful.
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bluerrpilot

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2008, 10:25:31 AM »
When I bath a ball I hit it with a 500 abralon pad on the spinner. I put the ball in a bucket in the bathtub and turn on the water. I let the water gradually get hot as to not "shock" the ball. Then let it run constantly for about 15-20 minutes. That way the overflow keeps recycling the water and taking away any oil and dirty water.
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elvismat

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2008, 11:28:47 AM »
I use to boil the water and put it in a five gallon bucket, like an old joint compound / paint bucket and let it sit for 30 mins.  The balls with more polish seem to absorb more oil compared to the duller balls.  I used dawn detergent than resoaked it with water.  I'm in the belief baking is the way to go, if you watch the temp and don't let it stay in over 30 mins.  It's one step deal and all of the oil will get extracted.  The only issue, your kitchen may smell a little, with the oil burning in the oven.  This needs to be done every 40-50 games or when you notice ball death.

Shermster

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2008, 06:57:13 PM »
Do you have to take out the inserts/slugs before you stick it in the oven?

Common sense tells me the heat will melt the inserts/slugs no?

MI 2 AZ

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Re: Hot Water Bath question
« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2008, 07:18:24 PM »
Mark Martin's recipe for "baked" Bowling Ball

This past Saturday I took the ball to Bud Mulholland of Bud's Pro Shop to have it resurfaced. The ball had various gouges and nicks that had happened over its lifetime and Bud would take care of these.

On Monday I picked up the ball from Bud and told him of my dilemma of the ball not hooking any longer. He then described a procedure I could do myself to remedy the situation. He stated that the reactive resin ball "eats" the oil off of the lane and the lane oil soaks into the ball. After many trips down the oily lane the ball quits reacting. He took my ball in the back of his shop and put it under a heat lamp and in less than 10 seconds the oil began oozing out.

Bud suggested that I "bake" the ball. He described this process as being quite simple using a standard household oven and a cookie sheet. Balancing the ball on its thumbhole on the cookie sheet and putting it in an oven at 150 degrees for 10-12 minutes at a time would bleed all of the oil out of the ball. After each cycle remove the ball from the oven and wipe it off and repeat the process until no more oil emerged from the ball.

I had heard of this before and it seemed very easy and foolproof. Even I, as the master chef, could accomplish this feat and in return have a new bowling ball.

Later that afternoon at the GDBA'S office I decided to "bake" the ball, since Monday night was my bowling night and it would be nice to have my Red Alert back the way it used to be.

I proceeded to turn the oven on and place the ball into it as the recipe called for. Approximately five minutes later when I went to check on it, I got the surprise of my life. Upon opening the oven door my Red Alert had become a flaming Red Alert and came rolling out of the oven onto the floor in the kitchen still in flames.

After the fire was out I surveyed the damage; the ball was definitely history. Approximately one third of the ball was now a different texture and color. So much for having a rejuvenated ball for my league session.

When I told Bud of the incident he could hardly believe it. The ball is now in Bud's possession and on display at his pro shop at 3105 W. Huron in Waterford, next to Lakewood Lanes.

The moral of the story is "bake" don't "broil" and then only by a qualified professional.

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