Author Topic: covers absorbing oil, then dying? (Read 6603 times)

Metal_rules · « **on:** October 10, 2008, 01:19:34 AM »

i was told that the only draw back of hammer balls, is the covers absorb so much oil, that after 30-50 games the re-action is not as good. in other words the ball smoothes out, or is not as agresive as it was. even with proper cleaning, it will still absorb too much oil. please comment on this.

Edited on 10/10/2008 1:09 PM

mmcfarland300 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 10, 2008, 09:26:56 AM »

From my experiences all the new coverstocks across the board have shown that the new higher absorbtion rates will have an effect on the reaction of a ball if not maintained properly. If kept cleaned and if soaked every 30 games or monthly i have seen a good if not full recovery to oob reaction.

azguy · « **Reply #2 on:** October 10, 2008, 10:05:48 AM »

After every set, I clean mine and my wife's ( GameBreaker ) and have not seen any drop in performance.
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az guy aka: R & L Bowlers Pro
rlbowlerspro@cox.net

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** October 10, 2008, 10:12:32 AM »

quote:
i was told that the only draw back of hammer balls, is the covers absorb so much oil, that after 30-50 games the re-action is not as good. in other words the ball smoothes out, or is not as agrees as it was. even with proper cleaning, it will still absorb too much oil. please comment on this.

Except for Visionary and Lanemasters balls, this is true of all current resin (particle balls are also resin based.) on the market. Some Ebonite-manufactured balls have a higher oil absorption rate that other brands. SO they may need slightly closer attention to cleaning and rejuvenation than otheres, But in general,
- The duller the ball, the more often it needs rejuvenation and faster they will lose performance.
- the higher the rev rate of the bowlers (same as duller ball),
- the more a ball is used on heavier and longer oil, (same as duller ball),
- the more polished balls may absorb less oil ONLY because they are used on lower volumes of oil.

All resin balls should ALWAYS, WITHOUT EXCEPTION, be thoroughly cleaned after every use, before they are put back in the bag or the locker.

All balls should be cleaned with an EXTREME cleaner like, Clean and Dull, after every 3 - 5 bowling sessions. Clean and Tacky is almost exactly the same as C&D. There is no other cleaner around, of which I am aware, that is even close to Clean and Dull.

99% of resin balls need to undergo some sort of a rejuvenation process every 50 - 75 games, WITHOUT EXCEPTION.

Surface modification (sanding with a lower than stock grit) is NOT an alternative to a rejuvenation process.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

Metal_rules · « **Reply #4 on:** October 10, 2008, 01:14:25 PM »

i like clean and dull so much that i bought a quart bottle of it. but i have never cleaned a ball in any other way, due to just not knowing the proper procedures of doing so.

chitown · « **Reply #5 on:** October 10, 2008, 01:56:24 PM »

I don't even use ball cleaner anymore because it won't remove oil that's been absorbed into the cover.

I just drop my bowling ball in a bucket and place it under my bathtub faucet. I run the hot water for 20 min and take the ball out and dry it off. Let the water run over the top of the bucket into the drain. By doing this the oil from the cover floats to the top and into the drain. This process work great!

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2008, 09:06:36 PM »

10 in the pit - again,
For after league use I will use Simple Green and hot water. Not necessarily that night but prior to next league night. As for deep oil extraction I use the dishwasher once every 6 months or so depending on the amount of use and the degree of oil bowled on.

I have used Clean and Dull in the past and still have a quart under the spinner but found I get comparable results when I run hot water over the ball, apply Simple Green with a white Scotch Brite pad and rinse with hot water.

My issue with Clean and Dull was it seemed to attract some of the most wicked belt marks I had ever seen, but, it did an adequate job of cleaning surface oil and marks off a ball.

charlest · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2008, 09:46:22 PM »

quote:
I don't even use ball cleaner anymore because it won't remove oil that's been absorbed into the cover.

Illogical and irrelevant.

quote:

I just drop my bowling ball in a bucket and place it under my bathtub faucet. I run the hot water for 20 min and take the ball out and dry it off. Let the water run over the top of the bucket into the drain. By doing this the oil from the cover floats to the top and into the drain. This process work great!

You could probably delay that process by 30-50 games if you cleaned the ball when you should.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

rvmark · « **Reply #8 on:** October 11, 2008, 06:16:55 AM »

I agree with charlest in the respect that I clean my balls after each set before they go in the bag. There are several good cleaners out there for use after each set, I most recently tried Valentino's Remedy X and like this cleaner, I have used Ebonite Powerhouse cleaner and it will work as well. I use clean N dull after 30 or so games for deep cleaning my equipment as well and will use the hot water bath method of oil extraction.

I have a Black Widow Solid that has over 300 games on it and it still hooks like a monster, I will say that this is a higher maintenance ball but I have found that with frequent cleanings and occasional water baths followed by taking the ball back to desired surface on my spinner that it will still perform. Just my exeperience with Hammer not reflective of others.

Mark

mastergunner · « **Reply #9 on:** October 13, 2008, 10:29:51 AM »

So to get oil out I just have to put my ball in a bucket of hot water and let it sit? Is that all. My Widow solid seems dead and I clean my ball religiously. I have had for over a year now.

mastergunner · « **Reply #10 on:** October 13, 2008, 10:30:40 AM »

.........

rvmark · « **Reply #11 on:** October 13, 2008, 12:38:14 PM »

quote:
So to get oil out I just have to put my ball in a bucket of hot water and let it sit? Is that all. My Widow solid seems dead and I clean my ball religiously. I have had for over a year now.

You can use the hot water bath method, a rejuvinator oven and some talk about using their dishwasher (remember to turn off the heated dry cycle). These are methods that people use to extract lane oil that has been absorbed into the coverstock. This is a link to a discussion from this site on the hot water method.
http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Replies.asp?TopicID=199058&ForumID=17&CategoryID=5

Hope this helps.

Mark

KingofKings696 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 13, 2008, 02:56:25 PM »

quote:
From my experiences all the new coverstocks across the board have shown that the new higher absorbtion rates will have an effect on the reaction of a ball if not maintained properly. If kept cleaned and if soaked every 30 games or monthly i have seen a good if not full recovery to oob reaction.

So you feel I should soak my ball throughly after each night(20 games of practice 2 to 4 times a week plus my leagues?)Also within 2 months of this constant cleaning and polishing it every 2 nights out(even though I generally wear more polish then I care for each night) it has gotten to the point where Ive had to move from right foot at 20 swinging it out to 5-8 area and back to throwing with left foot at 20 rolling straight up 10 miss right 2 boards if that and it wont recover and take out the 3. So is my ball truely dead this quick when my gold rhino pro which was abused before I got it so I never cared for it either and it still rolls as hard as anything in my bag however its carrying is starting to suffer from aging.

SleepOnIce · « **Reply #13 on:** October 13, 2008, 02:59:01 PM »

Probably because your Gold Rhino Pro was not created for the sole purpose of soaking up oil.

Call it a hunch.
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BLARGH

Gazoo · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2008, 03:06:28 PM »

quote:
quote:
From my experiences all the new coverstocks across the board have shown that the new higher absorbtion rates will have an effect on the reaction of a ball if not maintained properly. If kept cleaned and if soaked every 30 games or monthly i have seen a good if not full recovery to oob reaction.

So you feel I should soak my ball throughly after each night(20 games of practice 2 to 4 times a week plus my leagues?)Also within 2 months of this constant cleaning and polishing it every 2 nights out(even though I generally wear more polish then I care for each night) it has gotten to the point where Ive had to move from right foot at 20 swinging it out to 5-8 area and back to throwing with left foot at 20 rolling straight up 10 miss right 2 boards if that and it wont recover and take out the 3. So is my ball truely dead this quick when my gold rhino pro which was abused before I got it so I never cared for it either and it still rolls as hard as anything in my bag however its carrying is starting to suffer from aging.

Might want to consider using plastic or urethane for practice. Putting 200 to 400 games a month on a ball, nothing is going to last very long.
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"I don't want to be remembered, I want to be forgotten"

Edited on 10/13/2008 3:07 PM

Author Topic: covers absorbing oil, then dying? (Read 6603 times)

Metal_rules

covers absorbing oil, then dying?

mmcfarland300

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azguy

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charlest

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Metal_rules

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chitown

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Tom

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charlest

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rvmark

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mastergunner

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mastergunner

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rvmark

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KingofKings696

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SleepOnIce

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Gazoo

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