Author Topic: Question on a Blade (Read 2885 times)

Doc Hollywood · « **on:** May 12, 2004, 02:08:16 AM »

I picked up a used Blade from Next Level PS. I saw this ball being thrown a long ways back and told myself if I ever came across one I would try it out.

I searched on this site and bowling ball reviews and see there is a lot of positive feedback on it.

What I didn't see is some of the layouts people had.

From those that have thrown this ball, How did you have it drilled and did you like the drill and if not what would you have done differently. What cover finish did you have on it.

Is this a good bench mark ball as people have stated?

--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
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HammerHombre · « **Reply #1 on:** May 12, 2004, 07:25:07 PM »

I have found that the blade pearl is my personal fav in this line. Drilled 2 of these only slightly different, #1, pin about 5 1/2" and mb 3 1/2", pin above bridge. #2, 5 1/2" on pin and mb, pin is in same position on both balls, only changed mb position. I also have a blade reactive about 4 1/2" X 3"
I love all of these. The blade reactive is in my opinion about 5-7 boards stronger than the blade reactive pearl with pretty similar drilling.
hope this helps
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Chris Heringer

anotherwindup · « **Reply #2 on:** May 13, 2004, 08:22:35 AM »

quote:
I have found that the blade pearl is my personal fav in this line. Drilled 2 of these only slightly different, #1, pin about 5 1/2" and mb 3 1/2", pin above bridge. #2, 5 1/2" on pin and mb, pin is in same position on both balls, only changed mb position. I also have a blade reactive about 4 1/2" X 3"
I love all of these. The blade reactive is in my opinion about 5-7 boards stronger than the blade reactive pearl with pretty similar drilling.
hope this helps
--------------------
Chris Heringer

I am assuming that you are refering to the CG marking on the ball and not the MB, because the blade series doesn't have a MB marking.

Drillings. I have had, and still have a few of the blades. My suggestion would be to set the pin distance according to the strength of reaction you need and then do a 75* layout. That layout seems to work very well on the Blade series.

--------------------

Jason Jenkins
"Nothing HITS like a Hammer"

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #3 on:** May 13, 2004, 11:06:51 AM »

Thanks Jason That's the stuff I want to hear
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

HammerHombre · « **Reply #4 on:** May 13, 2004, 01:40:51 PM »

No, I meant the mb. I know the mb is not marked on the blade line, so I assumed that 6 3/4" inches from the pin through the CG you should find the MB. Give or take a lateral inch. Although you will read in some of the drill sheets included with Hammer equipment that the mb placement in a low mass bias ball is not as pivotal as in a high mass bias ball, as the mb plays a much larger role in ball reaction in the high mass bias equipment.
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Chris Heringer

Gene J Kanak · « **Reply #5 on:** May 13, 2004, 01:47:34 PM »

Doc,

The Blade is a great ball, not as great as the Blade Pearl, but I digress. Mine was drilled stacked with a weight hole drilled into the cg. I left mine in box condition. The Blade got fair length for a solid and made a strong arcing turn on the backend. The hit was solid as long as you were able to keep the ball finishing strong enough. The only thing that I did not like was the fact that the ball quickly picked up a sheen from lane oil, which would tame it down just enough to start pinging corners. I think that it was very much like the X-Factor Deuce in that regard. If you polish it right off of the bat then you might not have that problem. However, if you leave it box, make sure to hit it with scotchbrite fairly often to keep the surface grabbing. Overall it's one heck of a ball, though, and good looking too. Good luck with it.
--------------------
Bowling is without a doubt the dumbest, most pointless, most idiotic excuse for a game that has ever been invented. So, what time are we bowling tomorrow?

Edited on 5/13/2004 1:57 PM

anotherwindup · « **Reply #6 on:** May 13, 2004, 01:56:51 PM »

Quote

Mine was drilled 3-3/8" stacked with a weight hole drilled into the pin.
Quote

Gene- I am going to assume that you meant, " a weight hole drilled on the PAP". The reason I assume that is because I can't envision a drilling of 3 3/8" pin with a weight hole in the pin. That just doesn't add up to me. Am I missing something? Was the pin on your PAP?

help.

--------------------

Jason Jenkins
"Nothing HITS like a Hammer"

anotherwindup · « **Reply #7 on:** May 13, 2004, 02:00:58 PM »

quote:
Although you will read in some of the drill sheets included with Hammer equipment that the mb placement in a low mass bias ball is not as pivotal as in a high mass bias ball, as the mb plays a much larger role in ball reaction in the high mass bias equipment.
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Chris Heringer

Dude- what? that statement seems to contradict itself. If it doesn't matter in low bias balls, why mess with trying to "locate" it? Basically by positioning the pin and CG you are positioning the MB anyway. The only time HMB, LMB locations are moved is when the pin, CG, and mb are not in line. Then you disreguard the CG and use the pin and HMB for layout.

--------------------

Jason Jenkins
"Nothing HITS like a Hammer"

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #8 on:** May 13, 2004, 04:16:32 PM »

Well guys I punched it up and went to the lanes.

I drilled it up pin even with the ring and 1/4" right. Cg was just below midspan and put weighthole 2" below PAP pitched 1 1/2" down and 6 3/4 from midline. Hit it with Storm #1 and the Elixir and went to the synthetic laneswhich were freshly oiled.

All I can say is this ball lopes alot down the lanes and is fairly smooth but doesn't really drive like I thought is should. Tried different areas on the lane from pointing it all the way to 5th arrow. Best response was a tight line up the back release. It held axis rotation fairly well through the heads but then it kind of dies on the backend even with more rotation.

I think Gene you are right about surface with this ball I may have to dull it down a bit and play with it more in the oil. I was hoping for a stronger drive on the backend but this may not happen.
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

ashzero · « **Reply #9 on:** May 13, 2004, 05:00:53 PM »

doc, i usually don't pull out my blade in fresh shots...maybe on 3rd game, i would give it a chance...on heavily oiled shots, going down and in gives this ball good chance to do impressive things... on dry, you can practically swing this ball as much as you want...but it wont' deviate from it's linear/hockey stick move...overall, earlier rolling ball for medium conditions...i also think it's pretty good on carry downs...good hit when it goes into pocket or 1-2...good luck.

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #10 on:** May 13, 2004, 05:06:06 PM »

ashzero - What type of surface do you have on yours?
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

HammerHombre · « **Reply #11 on:** May 13, 2004, 11:46:01 PM »

Jason,
I dont think I said mb position "doesnt matter" in low mass bias equipment. I dont claim to know all there is to know about ball drilling, but I DO know that mb position is important, and I would never say it "doesnt matter". Anyhow, this is a moot point anyhow because Doc has already punched the ball.

Doc, I am sure you know this, but for information purposes where is your axis point. Also, on my blade reactive, I went from the box surface and used Ebonite Extender Polish. I did not press extremely hard as trying to make the ball look like a marble, I simply applied it with sufficient force to get a bit more shine out of the box finish. This has worked great for me. I have found that when I just cannot get the blade pearl "around the corner" I can change to this ball, move my feet and this ball will give me very similar roll, just more pop than my blade pearl. I love the blade line!
--------------------
Chris Heringer

Doc Hollywood · « **Reply #12 on:** May 14, 2004, 12:53:16 AM »

Chris axis 4 1/2 over and 3/4 up I have a track diameter of 11 1/2 - 12"
--------------------
Doc
Owner and Inventor of
DOC'S MAGIC BOWLING BALL ELIXIR
For more information click on the link below
http://home.comcast.net/~docsmagic/
or message me at:
http://Doc65@aol.com

ashzero · « **Reply #13 on:** May 14, 2004, 01:54:22 PM »

doc, the ball doesn't work too well in polished condition (what my proshop hammer guy told me)...so i keep it in 600 grit smooth...

Author Topic: Question on a Blade (Read 2885 times)

Doc Hollywood

Question on a Blade

HammerHombre

Re: Question on a Blade

anotherwindup

Re: Question on a Blade

Doc Hollywood

Re: Question on a Blade

HammerHombre

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Gene J Kanak

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anotherwindup

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anotherwindup

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Doc Hollywood

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ashzero

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Doc Hollywood

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HammerHombre

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Doc Hollywood

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ashzero

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