the pin placement from pap is more important but as a general rule the 10:30 will arc more and the 1:30 will have a later more angular look
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"deserves got nothing to do with it."
-- William Munny

Get ready for rant.  I see tons of bowlers on ordinary house conditions using a 10:00 or 10:30 drilling on all sorts of balls on the theory that this gives them earlier roll and more hook or smoother hook.  For most of these guys, the non-crankers, they don't need earlier roll.  They need more length and flare once the ball gets to the break to release the energy they generate later.  For most folks, IMHO, on most conditions, a 1:30 drilling will work better -- and I don't use one myself very often.  End of rant.
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"I don't mind if you don't like my manners. I don't like them myself. They're pretty bad. I grieve over them on long winter evenings."

On oil I use 10:30 for the earlier roll capability, predictability, and overall smoothness of the reaction.  On lighter patterns I use the 1:30 for the length and backend.  

I like either pattern but use mostly 10:30 drills on my particle equipment so I can play more, fresh or flatter oils better.  I also need that layout to help blend out the WET/DRY and over under I get from my above average rev rate.  

My only resin ball with a 10:30 layout is my Buzzsaw XL, and that's because it's a Buzzsaw.  I have my Crimson Executioner drilled 5x4, which isn't really 10:30, but it's laid out for a stronger backend with the MB close to the thumb.

If this is not a correct execution of these layouts, then I'll have to deal with doing it the wrong way.  My equipment doesn't roll out so I should be doing something right.

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In the old days people used to cut wood with axes.....................now and days...............they just have Executioners do it for them!

Pin_Krusher IS a serious threat to modern day bowling wood as we know it today.

about 3 hrs.
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Rev-O

Look, most bowlers will bowl pretty well with current equipment so long as the drill isn't stupid, because most of the reaction of the ball is caused by the general tendencies of the coverstock and the core.  Drill is just a tweak.    Frankly, over-unders are caused more by the wrong coverstock than the wrong drill pattern, but the wrong drill can contribute to problems. 10:30 drillings can score.  They react reasonably for many bowlers and frankly for me.  But too often, I see people throwing pearl reactives and particle pearls with early roll drillings and, to my eye, the drill is fighting the balls' tendencies.  Other low rev bowlers are throwing balls with a lot of "surface" that burn themselves up, both because of the surface and the drill.

Most of us have favorite drills.  I have used the following drills over the past couple of years on at least 3 balls:  (a) 7.5x5; (b) 6x4; (c) 5.5x5; (d) 4x4; (e) 4x2; (f)4.5x4.5 - pin under ring;  and (f) 3.375x5.  I have also experimented with other drills on other a variety of equipment -- usually trying two drills on a ball if I can't get the reaction I like after a coverstock change and sometimes putting two different drills on two identical balls.  I have seen that for some equipment, the reaction is drill specific, and so is usefulness.  And I have found one piece of pearl equipment (the Pearl Pulse) that was far more useful at 4x2.5 than any other pattern I tried.  But my observation is that for most bowlers, for most equipment, a 4x2 is not the best drill.  That doesn't mean it won't work fine.  That doesn't mean it won't score.  It means such drills must be used in their place and if you need smoother, earlier rolling equipment, look first to lower rg, symmetrical cores and duller coverstocks.  My fifteen minutes are up.
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"I don't mind if you don't like my manners. I don't like them myself. They're pretty bad. I grieve over them on long winter evenings."