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Author Topic: Dry lanes  (Read 1948 times)

10PinGod

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Dry lanes
« on: March 28, 2009, 06:31:12 PM »
what's the best advice anyone have like hand postion and ext

 

six pack

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Re: Dry lanes
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2009, 08:47:28 AM »
the best thing I did for myself for dry lanes is I picked up a black hammer urethane ball. if the lanes are truely dry then a urethane ball won't let you down.
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The harder I try the harder they fall
The harder I try the harder they fall

leftyinsnellville

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Re: Dry lanes
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2009, 08:58:07 AM »
I try to get more forward roll by turning my wrist slightly counter-clockwise (clockwise if you'e a righty), and pick up my speed.  Tends to hold the line a little longer and doesn't move in as hard.

six pack

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Re: Dry lanes
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2009, 09:26:18 PM »
quote:
If the lane was oiled as a standard THS pattern, then the dry your speaking of is only in the head area, Buying a Urethane for this lane pattern does not work because the amount of oil in the Mids & Backend keeps a Standard Urethane from tracking correctly so your best bet is to buy a mild reactive ball with a Low differential number, a ball such as a RotoGrip Neptune has a medium to high Rg and a Low diff. which means if you drill it with the Pin Medium strength say Pin 4 1/4 inch's from your PAP, this should be your Light to dry lane ball. If a Standard Urethane ball was still useful on todays lane patterns & oils, most ball companies would still be making these balls.
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Seahawks Fan! I don't hate other NFL teams, just their Fan's!


Sorry bud but I think you are way off base with this one.all the dry reactive balls I've tried in the past just offer over/under reactions for most broken down patterns I've tried to use them on.a urethane with some surface clears the dry heads,offers hold and good hit in the pins.the reason most ball manufactures droped the urethanes is for the plain simple fact that hook sells like crack.
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The harder I try the harder they fall
The harder I try the harder they fall

supersid802

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Re: Dry lanes
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2009, 01:45:04 AM »
for me it really depends on the meaning of dry...lower volume dry lanes i can get by with throwing something a little duller to just control the backeneds...house shot dry lanes i normally find something shiny and jump in the track area with my speed up
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six pack

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Re: Dry lanes
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2009, 05:37:44 AM »
quote:
SixPack, please be honest, did you drill any of those Light oil Reactives you claimed to try with a 5 inch Pin to PAP?
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Seahawks Fan! I don't hate other NFL teams, just their Fan's!


I had 2 with a little over 5" above fingers and 1 below. the balls I had were a Hammer sling blade,storm orange flame and a roto mercury.my favorite dry/light oil ball to date has been my 41/2" pin to pap Storm thunder flash,a strong urethane IMO.Ive just recently started rolling a Hammer black urethane with a 400 grit cover and have the best look out of anything I've tried.I've also owned a Lane 1 xxxl that worked ok on burnt conditions but rarely worked well for light oil.
I'm not a fan of light/dry lane reactives,I've tried them with very little successes.
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The harder I try the harder they fall
The harder I try the harder they fall

dizzyfugu

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Re: Dry lanes
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2009, 06:49:04 AM »
I also tried many different dry lane solutions, and found most reactives meant for dry/burnt lanes (still) too itchy. I'd also suggest an old Faball urethane Hammer (got myself a Blue Hammer just for this occasion) as a cheap insider tip. Very smooth, you can add surface without loss of length, just no lots of flare, but that's nothing you want on dry lanes.

Another ball I had very good success with (even though rather on light conditions, not truly dry) is my black Pure Hammer, drilled 5" from PAP stacked. Still a strong ball, but it "mocks" a urethane reaction very well. A shame that it went out of production.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany

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Edited on 3/30/2009 6:57 AM
DizzyFugu ~ Reporting from Germany