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Author Topic: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?  (Read 20736 times)

c-hop

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How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« on: August 22, 2007, 01:42:51 PM »
I was thinking of doing a tournament in Sept that will have a 40 ft flat gutter to gutter pattern. Anyone bowl on a patern like this or could compare it possibly to one of the pba patterns. What type of balls would work on this condtion (surface prep, pin placement) Just lookin to get some ideas looks to be a very challenging shot.
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Mike Austin

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2007, 09:45:59 PM »
Wood or synthetic??  I would try charcoal off the edge, see if you can get the ball off the lip and dry out a little line.  If it's high volume on synthetic, then your probably charcoal at 4th or 5th arrow, not hooking it much.

Could play like PBA Shark.

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c-hop

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2007, 09:51:16 PM »
i believe the lanes are synthetic
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Chris
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justdale

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2007, 10:14:55 PM »
Speed sensitive, play deep with something solid, I wouldn't cross too many boards though
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renoatpikeville

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2007, 10:24:13 PM »
What I do to attack a flat pattern especially when it is fresh is try to play straight. Usually around 8-9-10. With little axis tilt.

After a few games on most flat patterns there will be a burn spot. (free hook, friction down lane, whatever your terminology) Then your best bet is to get something that gets down the lane and stores energy and reads that burn spot.

Hopefully you are bowling on pro anvile with the range finders. Those tend to help me more beacuse the target is usually somewhere between the two range finders on 10 and 15.


upon edit:

Try reactive solids early with a controlled layout 4-4.5" Pin to PAP. (usually works best for me) Also another ball to have in your arsenal,(for later on in the day) a nice particle pearl (Ragin banshee for me) with a long pin to PAP and pin under. My reaction with this ball and drilling give me the earliest and smoothest reaction to help combat carrydown.




Edited on 8/22/2007 10:28 PM
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DON DRAPER

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2007, 11:09:18 PM »
the us open is contested on a flat 40' pattern----almost always on synthetic lanes. a ball with a stable drilling pattern and a smoothsanded surface will fare best. a straighter angle through the front part of the lane will also help.
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TwoFourEightNineNine

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2007, 12:02:37 AM »
This pattern tends to play low scoring. I tend to base my lane play strategy by distance. The longer the pattern, generally, the closer the breakpoint will be toward the headpin. The shorter the pattern, I tend to play a breakpoint closer to the gutter. This is just a general guide for me.

This pattern will tend to play for me between 7-10 depending on the surface. If it is more burned out you can probably get away with a ball that reads the worn part of the surface and really take advantage of that friction spot. In most centers, that's anywhere between 10-15. It is also super-important that you pay attention to the way the pins fall down- even if you are stringing them.

That's in an ideal situation for me, however, and whenever the ratio from inside to out is 1:1... chances are scores will be low and 9/, with hopefully a double or two, is something really really really good.
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dizzyfugu

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Re: How to attack a Flat 40 ft pattern?
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2007, 03:16:08 AM »
quote:
What I do to attack a flat pattern especially when it is fresh is try to play straight. Usually around 8-9-10. With little axis tilt.


Second that. Play conservative and straight down if the lane is still fresh, and watch the ball reaction. I'd use a solid reactive with a non-polished, sheen surface, a pearl or a light load particle ball (with my style, e. g. my 2.000 grit Frankie May Gryphon or 4.000 grit Fuze Eliminator).

There is no recovery room close to the gutter, and unless you use matte or particle stuff, swinging the ball is hazardous. Little side rotation is also helpful - just make sure you get the ball consitently through the oil to the breakpoint, and then let it do what it was designed for. Do not force the ball reaction - can become ugly.

As playing progresses, you will find room in the tracked-out lane area to cling to. Then, lighter balls can be used to exploit this "track" as a bumber or guideline to the pocket.
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