Okay, expecting this ball to be a big boomer, I purchased it and punched it up.  

I drilled it:

-----*--
--O-O--


---O--mb

4 1/2 pin to pap SLIGHTLY above and to the right of my ring, 60* layout.  I've tried this ball at box(2000), 1000 and 2000+polish.  I'm just not that satisified with it.  It is a good ball, don't get me wrong, but isn't "WOW".  My raging red fuze is more angular that this is.  I drilled this ball up specifically to have that one big backend ball.  

With all that said, our house shot is pretty slick across the board.  Everybody with speed is using sanded, fine or otherwise, and only the extremely heavy handed guys are playing around the 3rd arrow.  I will try the ball at another house before I make the final judgement, but right now I'm not all that thrilled.

I figured this ball would allow me to move alittle left and bump the "track area" but it really hasn't.  Honestly, it could be my style, b/c I haven't found anything that has worked week in and week out yet.  I've tried the following:  see profile, I've tried them all.  If I sand something down to read the lane earlier, it does and hits like a marshmallow and if I polish something it squirts.....

Ugh....

Andrew
--------------------
FUFU

After 4 consecutive high shots, I told my wife "They aren't saying boo, they're saying MOOOOOOOVE".

On the epic series of balls, for Angular backend I would go with no lower than a 70-75 degree mass bias.  I say this because with the pin time so low, the typical strong range of 45-65 degrees just makes the core spin up very fast in the midlane, thus not saving much for the move later down the lane in the backend.  I've drilled a ton of these for customers, and Saga's and to get the most angular backend reaction I've used 90 deg under thumb MB with 5" pin placements or a 4 1/2" pin placement with a 75 deg MB and the pin high on both.

I drilled a Saga for BMM with the pin approx 4 1/4 from his PAP and a 75deg MB and he can let you know how much it wheels down the lane.  I have also drilled two Odysseys for customers for a strong backend with the MB positions at 90 deg for the higher rev guy and 75deg for the lower rev/spinner.  4 1/2" pin placements on both and some polish and those also turn the corner very hard.  

Your layout wants to promote more of a strong revving midlane.  Typical rule of thumb on MB degrees are 45-60* = Strong & Angular for any MB Diff rating of .018 and below, 90-75 for strong & angular for any MB diff of .020 and above.  When you get into strong solid reactive vs. pearls and particle pearls, you also have to think of another layout tweak.  Typically pin higher above the midline and added polish.
--------------------
-DJ Marshall
...The Twelve In a Row Pro Shop.  Hyattsville, MD
Coach: University of Maryland Baltimore County Mens Bowling

No issues with the Odyssey at all ! Drill with a 5 X 3 layout. Scored very well with ball in Reno and in local centers, but you must have head oil and some tighter back ends for this ball. This ball hooks just a few boards less than my Epic Battle, and about equal to my Break.
--------------------
Thirtyclean (Well maybe 29, or 28, most of
the times !)

Mark-
  I understand what you are saying, but it is not true in my case.  I've had no problems getting a Resurgence to turn the corner even with a lower pin position (yes I know, 2 different beasts, but similar in strength).  My release allows me to wheel a Mercury quite a bit on the right conditions also.  

I think that I underestimated the strength of the Maximus II core.  Like DP3 said, the thing spins up incredibly fast, not leaving much for the backend.  I'm not sure what the MB angle on mine is, but I'd guess it's around 55 degrees.  I may plug and redrill it, but more likely I will give it to my father.

Don
--------------------
"On-base percentage is great if you can score runs and do something with that on-base percentage.  Clogging up the bases isn't that great to me. The problem we have to address more than anything is the home run problem."
~Dusty Baker being a total fool

I agree with DP3.  The Odyssey really requires weaker pins and MB angles if you really want it to wheel off the spot. It covers a lot of boards but really picks up in the midlane.  The cover and core ARE REALLY strong.  If you go with a higher flaring pin and high transition MB, you will not get the angle you probably wanted.  The first couple I drilled were similar to older strong solids in the past and were kind of week downlane.  No where near the pop I expected.  Went about a 1/2" weaker on the pin and about 10* weaker on the MB and now the ball wheels downlane.  My 6 x 55* Odyssey is stronger than my 5.5 x 45* Epic.


Just like Mark said, oftentimes I see guys try to force a reaction or shot that is simply not there...no matter what ball you get.

--------------------
Anthony Chapman

Roto Grip Staff 2007
Where's my camera?

I enjoyed the observations made by DP3 regarding different strengths of MB.

REgards,

Luckylefty
--------------------
Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..

whats your pap that looks like a pretty even non descript drill to me I would plug the ball and start over. My pap is 4and5/8 x1/2 i have one pin under bridge and one pin right of ring but down about a half inch . both cgs are kicked out considerably and one is drilled out with the weight hole . They both turn up nice. if they are going to hook is never a question. I think you have a bad set up,this is a goooood ball.
--------------------
my style, the art of bowling without bowling

Andrew,

Didn't you have a problem with a Immortal Solid drilled much the same?  Just wondering.
--------------------
Scott