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Author Topic: Ball polish  (Read 4850 times)

tdub36tjt

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Ball polish
« on: January 11, 2008, 03:09:33 AM »
I hear a lot  about different polishes on this site, but I am wondering which polish will check up the earliest. I am having trouble with my polished ball going a little too  long and my sanded balls being too early.

 

tdub36tjt

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2008, 11:21:29 AM »
quote:
im in the same boat you are in. When I get a new ball it reacts nice and strong and once I get it resurfaced it hits like a wet noodle. I think it has to do with the polish, maybe they put too much, or maybe its a polish with a slip agent in it as opposed to one that strictly brings it to factory finish.
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That is exactly how everything is for me. When it comes from the factory polished it hooks up nice and I love it. Then when the polish wears off and I put what is supposedly the stock polish back on it and it just skates down the lane. I wouldn't think that it is being put on too thick because they put it on thick from the factory and it reacts fine from the factory.

NicholasE

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2008, 11:37:50 AM »
Brunswick high gloss finish is supposed to  help out with getting length but still keep the ball strong. The ruff buff from brunswick on the other hand makes the grit higher and ball reaction less.
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azus

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2008, 11:42:40 AM »
Tried polishing the ball, and then very lightly use a scotch brite on it?
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tdub36tjt

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2008, 12:05:07 PM »
quote:
Tried polishing the ball, and then very lightly use a scotch brite on it?
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Yeah that seemed to kill the backend. I want it to react like the OOB finish reacted but I can seem to get it to do that. The only storm ball I still get even close to the same reaction I got when I bought it is the Spitfire. For instance my Domination oob, picked up earlier and flew on the back now it doesn't even hardly pick up and it doesn't have that same snap on the back. Same thing with my total nv as well it just lost a little of its pop on the back with the new polish I put on it.

Hitsomeballs

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2008, 12:27:56 PM »
Applying polish really depends on who applies it and what you use.  Yes there are certain brands that add length, but it does not last that long and to keep the added length you need to maintain the polish.  Also was there heavy pressure used when applying, that causes a more glossy finish.  Less pressure less length.    

If you are getting too much length, I suggest using no polish but higher grit.  If you have your ball at 1000 abralon with polish and it goes too long, then just sand it to 2000 abralon and do not polish it.  That should help the ball not be so sensitive to over/under.  Using surface adjustments with no polish may be what your looking for.  

Surface finish is what most companies focus on today to fine tune the ball reaction, not polish.  By sanding to 2000 or 4000 abralon, it allows the ball to have less surface, which easily clears the heads, and enough surface to get a good backend reaction.  

But your post was very general, it really depends on what type of ball is polished and what ball is sanded or is it really polished?  A 4000 abralon ball with some games on it, will look polished, but really isn't, its just the finish process.

tdub36tjt

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2008, 03:45:13 PM »
quote:
Just a suggestion.  Pick up a bottle of Reacta Clean and clean your ball after every session.  I have found that it keeps my products in "out of box" condition a lot, lot longer.

Dan.


I clean my stuff after every set and hot water baths, never had a ball "die". It is just I can never get that same reaction with the polish as I got OOB. For instance, my TNV was a beast when I got it and it still is if I sand it down to like 2000 or 4000, but it is too much ball on a THS. So if I apply my own polish the ball goes longer than it did OOB and doesn't have as much backend. Because of this I get too much hook at 4000 no polish and not enough with polish. I am at a loss as there is no inbetween for me with this ball??

charlest

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2008, 05:01:17 PM »
If we could specify the exact foot-pounds of pressure, the precise amount of polish, the amount of time on the exact model of spinner, the precise type of towel/cloth used, the precise finish on each coverstock, as is appropriate for your PRECISE ball release and delivery and ball speed for the oil amount and pattern and the precise age of the exact type of lane surface on which you bowled,
THEN, and only then, could we possibly get close to the finish you MIGHT need to do what you would like to do.

Until then, only by having your own spinner and testing the finish and the amount of each type of polish used, will you ever get close to what you need/want.

Basically it's a matter of experience and learning what the process is for each type of coverstock you use. Nothing more, nothing less.

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tdub36tjt

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2008, 06:21:20 PM »
Fair enough. Seems like I need to get a ball spinner. Too bad I didn't ask for that at Christmas.

quote:
If we could specify the exact foot-pounds of pressure, the precise amount of polish, the amount of time on the exact model of spinner, the precise type of towel/cloth used, the precise finish on each coverstock, as is appropriate for your PRECISE ball release and delivery and ball speed for the oil amount and pattern and the precise age of the exact type of lane surface on which you bowled,
THEN, and only then, could we possibly get close to the finish you MIGHT need to do what you would like to do.

Until then, only by having your own spinner and testing the finish and the amount of each type of polish used, will you ever get close to what you need/want.

Basically it's a matter of experience and learning what the process is for each type of coverstock you use. Nothing more, nothing less.

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Dan Belcher

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2008, 06:35:04 PM »
Using a ball spinner is the ONLY way to properly polish a ball.  The friction and heat generated are a huge part of getting the finish right.

n00dlejester

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2008, 08:47:57 PM »
I've noticed on my polished gear that 4000 Abralon gives me basically identical reaction. It'll roll a hair earlier but still retain the killer backend. My T-Road Pearl at 4000, that thing absolutely flies on fresh backends. If not that, try 2000 Abralon with polish. I had that on my Pyro for a while...insane backend from me. I could play deeper than I ever have, it was awesome.
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stormed1

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2008, 01:02:28 AM »
Domination is listed at 1500 grit polished which on a storm ball is a green scotchbrite and then storm number two polish which brings the ball to 1500 grit
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Gazoo

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2008, 02:52:21 PM »
Burgundy scotchbrite pad and Storm Reacta Shine(1500 grit polish) will get you there. I believe that the factory finish is 320 grit/1500 grit compound which would be step 2 as stormed1 stated.

apocalyptic_rabbit

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2008, 03:29:32 AM »
your never gonna be able to get a ball to EXACTLY OOB reaction because you are adding another element to the cover that wasn't there the first time you throw the ball, that being oil.

you can get it close, make sure that your proshop is following the step by step directions to get it to oob, starting from a lower grit and working up, or using all polishes that Storm uses,

the 1500 grit finish on most storm balls is actually the ball sandd to 220 (I think) and then step 1, stwp 2, and step 3 on it...

the reacta clean and reacta shine and stuff are different products entirely
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justdale

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Re: Ball polish
« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2008, 05:38:42 AM »
Putting polish on a ball won't get it back to OOB if your not taking the time to not only resurface, but to get the oil out of the ball. If your just adding polish you are just covering up the mess that is in and on the ball.

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