Author Topic: Simple Green (Read 33968 times)

Kanyon · « **on:** March 05, 2010, 10:11:46 AM »

To those that use Simple Green and alcohol, to you use half of each or do you put any water in it.

Steven · « **Reply #76 on:** March 10, 2010, 08:49:00 AM »

quote:
Hey, it's everybody's favorite effete, self absorbed bowling snob from CA once again weighing in on something he knows nothing about.

CRD/LB4M: Coming from you, I take the above for what it's worth, which isn't a whole lot.

Actually, I used Simple Green for ball cleaning for several years. I used it straight, and with different combinations of water and alcohol. I found using it at full strength followed by a spray wipe down of water gave the best results. Like anything else, experiment and see what works best for you. In that realm, I liked F409 a little better, but try and see for yourself.

Like all threads, this one went in a slightly different direction, so don't get your skirt ruffled. The bottom line is that while the household cleaners work (to some degree), they're not the most effective choice. That's a fact. And I know this because simple comparison tests prove it.

I know, you can't be bothered by really easy curiosity experiments. I guess it's too exhausting after intense spare change pot bowling. But don't impose your well documented limitations on others. Maybe they'd like to see for themselves.

Steven · « **Reply #77 on:** March 10, 2010, 11:37:22 AM »

quote:
Valentinos, Ebonite, Storm, Neo-Technologies, Lane Masters, etc. do not make their MSDS safety sheets available online at their sites nor can you find them on the internet in a browser search.

So what? I'm more concerned with the results than the specific chemicals used.

quote:
What does all this mean? These cleaners are all the same.

What a weak reach. Absolutely wrong....If you had ever worked with Hook-It and used the simple lipnus test of smell, liquid consistency, and plain visual effectiveness, you wouldn't embarrass yourself with attempts at being knowledgeable.

quote:
How about that? That's alright though. Steven and Charlest must be the same people who pay the same for a jug of 50/50 Water/Antifreeze as they do for a jug of pure AntiFreeze. Keep on marching to the beat of those marketing departments, boys.

And keep burying your head in the sand with respect to the effectiveness of at least some commercial bowling products. I'm not claiming the some aren't essentially rebranded household cleaners, but to make a broad brush claim that they all fall into the same category is just overt ignorance.

snowspike1 · « **Reply #78 on:** March 10, 2010, 11:40:59 AM »

taken from a bottle of Hook-it that ive had for over15 yrs.

(Front side)

*increases "tac" for greater hook
*leaves dull bowling ball dull
*leaves shiny bowling balls shiny
*excellent results by hand

(Back side)

For best results (on polished bowling balls) use Neo-Tac Renew-It prior to applying Hook-It

Directions: Shake well before useing. Apply to clean paper towel. Useing circular motion, rub on one half of bowling ball. Continue to rub until all the product is removed from the ball. If a film remains onthe ball surface continue to rub until film is removed. Repeat on remaining half of the ball. Keep the product from contact with vinyl inserts. Discard paper towels after use. DO NOT store paper towels on or in your bowling equipment.
Caution: Keep out of reach.................

Nowhere does it say cleaner. "INCREASES TAC" why else dose your hands feel like you just climbed a pine tree (sticky). How this stuff is approved for use during comp. It may not alter the surface but it does add to it.

Hook-it just like control-it are not cleaners Renew-it is a cleaner and still i have better results with Simple Green mix.

The pro-shops in this area use windex and even sell the brunswick stuff (even refills... (refilling it with you guessed it windex) for 1/2 the price of new bottle. Man what a scam they got. But as this thread shows some people judge cleaner by the bottle it comes in and will pay thru the nose for it.

Steven · « **Reply #79 on:** March 10, 2010, 11:54:46 AM »

Snowpike: I think the Hook-It formula has been tweaked over the years. Many years ago, the liquid was plain nasty and I stopped using it. I gave it a try again starting about a year ago, and while you still have to be careful breathing the stuff, the liquid seems different. And it is a cleaner, which you can see on current bottle labels as well as the website:

quote:
"Removes oil, dirt and belt marks from particle and reactive bowling balls."

It does the above really well. It will take off belt marks that SG can't dent. If anything, that's a testimate to it's strength.

Who knows what the liquid inside that 15 year old bottle you have has morphed to. It sounds like a candidate for a one-way ticket to a toxic waste dump.

J_w73 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 10, 2010, 12:01:24 PM »

quote:

Nowhere does it say cleaner. "INCREASES TAC" why else dose your hands feel like you just climbed a pine tree (sticky). How this stuff is approved for use during comp. It may not alter the surface but it does add to it.

I agree with you about how stuff is approved for use during competition. There are plenty of products approved for use during competition that alter the surface of the ball or add to it. Seems like the USBC only cares if you take a piece of sand paper to your ball and dull it up.

--------------------
18 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, 15 deg axis tilt, varied rotational axis deg.. usually 45+
HighGame 300 x 4, High Series 808
Book Average 205,PBA Xperience 185

Edited on 3/10/2010 1:06 PM

Steven · « **Reply #81 on:** March 10, 2010, 12:29:05 PM »

CRD: You keep dancing around your complete lack of experience in trying and comparing different cleaning solutions. This is just another example of your limited and unfocused moronic behavior.

It's all about results. The bottom line is that there are at least two cleaners (C&D and Hook-It, probably more) that blow away Simple Green in any comparative test you can perform for yourself. You can go ahead and break your arm patting yourself on the back for using a cheaper but less effective solution. That's your choice.

Just like your cheap ball de-oil method. You'll waste gallons of water to get a fraction of the oil a Revivor machine will pull out. Why? Because again, you're cheap, and you want to save a few quarters for those hard nosed post handicap league pot games.

Yea, you are a smart guy......

Steven · « **Reply #82 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:01:16 PM »

quote:
No, donk, as usual I post facts. As usual, you just projectile vomit your tired old opinions all over the clean table cloth of a topic. And as usual, that's all it is with no facts to back up what you say.

Facts? You post that many of the ball cleaning manufacturers don't post their chemical compositions, so you just ASSume they're all the same. Why? Because you simply want it to be so.

Simplistic, moronic, and pure 'cool rockin daddy'. You can't extend yourself to perform the simplest of comparisons, so you reject any notion that SG is the end all to ball cleaning solutions.

You wouldn't know a FACT if it bit you on the azz and left a Tattoo with flashing neon lights to remind you. Carry on....

Bowlin for Beer · « **Reply #83 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:28:40 PM »

Does anybody here really believe bowling ball manufacturers are going to dedicate research and development dollars to ball cleaners ? It's reasonable to assume they take chemical properties of household cleaners and combine them with some scents and, voila. Seriously, simple green & rubbing alcohol citrus based cleaner & rubbing alcohol, windex, etc. whatever works - works. But to decide for yourself, clean your balls with any of the above, then use a bowling ball co.'s cleaner with a clean towel and see if you get more dirt off the ball. If you did, then it's a better cleaner than the household one. I'm sure some household cleaners are better than some bowling co.'s cleaners and vice-versa. But don't use harsh chemicals that may harm your ball (e.g., acetone, thinners, retarders, etc.), and whatever you do, don't mix bleach and ammonia.

NoseofRI · « **Reply #84 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:34:49 PM »

quote:
you wouldn't embarrass yourself with attempts at being knowledgeable.

Hey Steven, just like to first say this is a very intriguing thread you've dove into here. I was just curious though, seeing how you said the above statement about someone else could you please enlighten us on how the below test is performed?

quote:
lipnus test

Oh, just to help out a little, if you can't find the direct definition or steps to performing this test, try looking up Litmus Test instead.
Congrats on your attempt at being knowledgeable....
Simply Amazing!!

TDC57 · « **Reply #85 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:37:06 PM »

If you are doing deep cleaning then Clean and Dull is the answer. For anything else the Simple Green, alcohol, water mixture will do as well or outclean any ball company cleaner out there for much less money. I've tried many cleaners and I dare anyone to prove that some companies cleaner does a better job!!

milorafferty · « **Reply #86 on:** March 10, 2010, 02:19:20 PM »

quote:
If you are doing deep cleaning then Clean and Dull is the answer. For anything else the Simple Green, alcohol, water mixture will do as well or outclean any ball company cleaner out there for much less money. I've tried many cleaners and I dare anyone to prove that some companies cleaner does a better job!!

I keep seeing references to "Deep Cleaning" in this thread. I just don't see how a liquid could do that. If the ball absorbs oil into the cover, that would mean it has capillary action. So if another liquid was applied, would that liquid not be absorbed as well? I can't see how a liquid could reverse the capillary action and actually remove anything from other than the surface of the ball. So exactly how would deep cleaning work? It would seem to defy the laws of physics to me.
--------------------
Nine in the pit with the Tenpin left standing. dooooh!!

snowspike1 · « **Reply #87 on:** March 10, 2010, 03:00:46 PM »

quote:

Just like your cheap ball de-oil method. You''ll waste gallons of water to get a fraction of the oil a Revivor machine will pull out. Why? Because again, you''re cheap, and you want to save a few quarters for those hard nosed post handicap league pot games.

the following is from an email i got from Mike Sargent Storm bowling Tech...

De-oiling the ball is one last option that isnâ€™t always a concern, but depending on the ball and what type of lane conditions you bowl on, it may be necessary over time. In order to de-oil the ball without damaging the molecular structure or inter-cohesion of the coverstock we recommend giving the ball a hot-water bath. We donâ€™t recommend using dry heat methods, especially ovens or otherwise because the temperatures often exceed safe parameters. Dry heat can also pull the moisture from the coverstock and certain additives weâ€™ve used to create ball reaction can literally bake off. As such, dry heat or excessive heat may remove the oil, but it may also weaken the coverstock and kill the ballâ€™s over-all reaction if the key additives are â€˜bakedâ€™ off. Therefore, warm water is the ideal medium because it isnâ€™t going to negatively effect the coverstock as certain other methods may.

The recommended temperature for the warm water bath is just slightly above that of a Hot Tub, typically around 110 â€“ 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is hot enough to remove the oil, but not hot enough to damage the ball. Please be aware that pro-longed exposure at this temperature can cause burning. As such, please avoid prolonged exposure to your skin or any contact with your eyes. We recommend using a water source where you can readily add or remove water to keep the water temperature constant. The addition of dish-soap is recommended but not required.

The easiest method for oil removal is to do multiple balls at once (if you have them) in the bath tub with warm water. Put the ball(s) in the water and let them soak for 20 â€“ 30 minutes. Then, we recommend removing them, toweling them off to remove the oil, and putting them back in the water. You may want to add more hot water occasionally to keep the temperature around the ideal range of 110 â€“ 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Continue to do this every 20 â€“ 30 minutes until no visible oil comes to the surface of the ball. This will ensure the ball(s) have been safely de-oiled and are back to near out of box quality.

so what about the rejuvanator oven there? according to storm dont put there balls in 1 (i would hazard a guess and say that goes for Roto too).

so much for the cheap side cause its the reccomended way.

Edited on 3/10/2010 4:01 PM

JOE FALCO · « **Reply #88 on:** March 10, 2010, 03:26:19 PM »

I learned a long way back about some of the things you guys are just discovering .. and I'm NOT REFERRING TO SIMPLE GREEN!

--------------------
J O E - F A L C O

RIP Thong Princess/Sawbones

lrtrees · « **Reply #89 on:** March 13, 2010, 08:00:29 AM »

JohnP · « **Reply #90 on:** March 13, 2010, 10:24:11 AM »

Kanyon -- PLEASE lock this topic and stop the idiocy. -- JohnP

Author Topic: Simple Green (Read 33968 times)

Kanyon

Simple Green

Steven

Re: Simple Green

Steven

Re: Simple Green

snowspike1

Re: Simple Green

Steven

Re: Simple Green

J_w73

Re: Simple Green

Steven

Re: Simple Green

Steven

Re: Simple Green

Bowlin for Beer

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NoseofRI

Re: Simple Green

TDC57

Re: Simple Green

milorafferty

Re: Simple Green

snowspike1

Re: Simple Green

JOE FALCO

Re: Simple Green

lrtrees

Re: Simple Green

JohnP

Re: Simple Green