Whatever method you're doing - if the oil is still pouring out, continue the process until it doesn't.  If a ball is overdue for a de-oiling it can take a while to complete.

What method are you doing?  What ball is it?

I personally think the "ball in a bucket of hot water" method is the easiest, but also the least effective.  I've had balls leach some oil but have the ball still labor on the dry part of the lane.  I personally use the dishwasher (NO heat/dry cycle).

Some Ebonite balls from 5-7 years ago were terrible when it came to oil absorption.  You could remove oil, but they still didn't work well afterwards or just sucked up a ton of oil again very quickly.

One thing I would add, if you are doing a water bath, you want to try and control the temperature as much as possible.  Here is my method:

• I get my cooler and fill it with 160°F water to a level that I am sure will cover the ball once the ball is inserted.
• I then close the cooler and let the temperature equalize.  The cooler is probably at a temperature less than 160°F and will absorb some of the heat from the water until the entire inside is around 155°F (depends on the size of the cooler).  If I want the water cooler, I can either start with a lower temperature water or add cool water until the bath has gotten to the desired temperature.
• I then add less than a teaspoon of dish soap and stir slowly.  Next add your ball(s).  The temperature may decrease slightly due to the thermal mass of the bowling balls absorbing heat, but it won't be much.
• Close lid and wait 30 minutes.  Check water temperature to see how much heat you are losing.  You will want to have some hot water (near boiling) to adjust accordingly.  If you are going to be doing a couple of balls or wanting to add heat a few times, take water out of the bath and heat that water up then add back.  This way you aren't accumulating a lot of excess water in your bath.  I will usually add near boiling water and take out excess at the same time.
• Do this till you feel comfortable you have extracted the amount of water you want.

I don't personally look to see if my ball still has oil coming out.  I do this procedure on a regular basis and know if I do each ball for an hour, I am pretty good.

Sand to 400 grit, tape off all holes and put in bucket of hot water and a splash of simple green.  Let sit for 10 or so min, pull out and wipe with rubbing alcohol..  Then repeat a couples times.... Most I've done was 4 times with a modern marvel that was used at 1000 grit

When done finish with what ever surface you desire..

And when I mean sand it, just sand to get it dull.  Unless you wana resurface it...

Any temperature over 140 will void warranties, 125 for some.  Hot water baths expose the ball to temperatures too high for too long, they also don't extract the oil, they just get out whatever happens to bleed out.  This still leaves trapped oil in the shell near the surface, which is why even though oil may come out, it may not improve the ball reaction much, if at all, and it will certainly take forever. Storm and Ebonite brands soak up the most oil, and the First Blood has had loads of problems "dying" around here. 

Put in a request with your local shop to purchase a Detox, 30 minutes and you essentially have a brand new ball, all done safely, quickly, and without voiding any warranties.  Revivors and Rejuvenators are now obsolete. 

Gizmo -- I'm not familiar with the detox, where can I find some information about it?  --  JohnP

Dexot is a word that some one just made up to do the same thing as a bath does

Normally I'm not too confrontational, but that was an extremely ignorant statement.  I've been in the business for nearly a decade and have seen/used every oil extraction gimmick or technique out there.  The Detox is a whole different animal. 

Dexot is a word that some one just made up to do the same thing as a bath does